1998 550 Maranello "sorting" thread--DIY

imagine the threaded bolt on the right is the snout of the drive gear. Put assembly thusly over the snout and drive the puller point into the nut instead of into the gear shaft and bunging it up. You could even put a aluminum or delrin pad from scrap under the spacer for more protection. You could use this without a puller to protect the shaft end and lift the cover and shim it and then use an air hammer to beat the top of the spacer, rinse and repeat as you increase the case cover shim size. There are always ways to do it. I have not removed the 550 cover but many others and the basic principles work. I'm also pretty dangerous with a welder and I would not be above taking disposable HFT puller fingers and welding them to the bearing vs. taking my time to grind them to capture the inner race.
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Someone mentioned 17K miles? Lets say the car is 10 y/o that's 1700miles/yr. I'm sure the car is very nice but some would call that a garage queen. I think that not driving cars is as bad as driving them too much. My 550 is a driver with many more miles and I'll track it too and the car is flawless and cheap to maintain. Aside from routine maintenance and the SRI gold kit and personal go fast goodies the car has cost very little. I also think Pete said he thinks he is at $6k but how much of the was the time gears cost? Chalk that one up to "learning curve" we have all "been there spent that". His car will be perfect for many miles to come. When I went through my brother's 5 series BMW with clutch change, radiator rebuild, new bearings in shifter, new clutch, injector cleaning, new water pump, and belts fluids the cost of all was not so cheap either. I'm thinking my 550 water pump rebuild was maybe $100 bucks, tensioners were 300ea., belts 100 each I just don't remember spending alot for this car.

 

Pete, Do you need a friction modifier adding to 75w-90 NS gear oil, I thought the NS itself is the right gear oil and does not need modifier. Second, cleaning Idle air controller is basically done just spraing it by the cleanser which is pictured here? Thanks Sark.

 

I sure would not let the thread concern you but instead allow it to open everyones eyes to what happens when a lock and swap belt change is done with blinders on. Pete will very likely never go here again, nor will any of the future owners of the car as everything is being dealt with in a very proper manner, my compliments!

The 550 is a spectacular model and many of the problems here were caused problems, not design problems. How well the model dealt with what it was handed in the past and still was running along nicely, speaks to the quality of the design. Sure there are a few design issues but those are easily dealt with once solutions are found.

A true Wolf in Sheep's clothing these are and when the Go pedal is pushed there is NO waiting for things to happen... it happens NOW, in a very eye opening manner, when everything is as it should be.

 

Hi --- may I ask why you're going to have the dealer install the new motor mounts and PS pressure hose when you are obviously so skilled and seem able to tackle all problems mechanical, electrical and beyond? Thanks. Frank

 

I do agree, it should be walking in the park for him.
Sark

 

Pete,

I've been racing cars for years. I can talk you through the full alignment process and your tools needed will be a sears craftsman laser level, a HFT 90* rule, and a straight rule. If you really want to go all out there is probably a racer in your area with scales. The last guy I paid to scale and align my car was $300 bucks if you don't want to do the effort. So go for it! The alignment is a cake walk. You should really learn to do this. You learned to make the engine go now might as well learn to make the car handle.

 

I did mine without disconnecting the tie rod ends. Just mark and disconnect the steering shaft, and remove the steering rack mounting bolts. I propped mine so that it was about 4 inches from its mounted position and it gave me all the access I needed.

 

Pete you sure you got the oem 550 mount? Most of these cars even queens killed the original mount just by sitting. There is a picture here somewhere of the 575 mount which is the update.

 

Hey we all got to look out for each other! You would be surprised at the accuracy of home alignment vs. the shops. It is quite a process first shimming for a flat floor, to scaling the car to corner balance, to finally aligning it. It is actually fun when you get into it. You start making changes that effect handling and learn to make the car do what you want. Then you will be amazed at what Ferrari has done for us. Remember all that "hate" for the twitchiness of the 348? That was the Factory trying to give us a racecar for the street but few people understood. The 348 is a very tuneable chassis that can suit multiple driver styles. Problem is when people treat it like a streetcar you get put into the weeds.

 

I removed the stabilizer bar first, then dropped the steering rack. I then was able to get the engine jacked up a little, removed the main mount bolt, and finally removed the mount adapters on the engine and rubber mounts themselves. Not a terrible job, but not all that fun either.

As for alignment, there are several really good videos on youtube as to how to do this. Once you get your garage set up with shims to get the car level it is really easy from there. There are also a lot of cheap and effective tools the DYI'er can buy to make the prcess simple and error proof.

End of the day though, if you do it the way I did, you don't disturb the tie rods and the alignment - worst case your steering wheel may be off (if you don't mark it or realign it right), but you can fix this through the driver's side wheel well in about 10 min...

 

Pete, got your phone message, i am going to try and head over to see this adventure tomorrow, Will give you a ring. I will bring the 575 so you can remember what they look like all buttoned up

 

Thanks Pete for sharing your work today. Quite an undertaking. I am very impressed. And, you a great guy to boot. Here is to getting it on the road soon so we can do some twisties. I know a few secret spots as I am sure you do as well.

 

I sent you a pm, but I would add that I think I remember just being able to get an open end wrench on the lower bolt head, which i jammed (didn't have a helper) and I then was able to get a socket on the upper nut and turn that.

Dean

 

Good to see you were able to get it done. This is PITA job, but worth it as it is not that technically difficult, but a time waster; the perfect job for the DIY'er.

 

Pete, I see you put the cam shafts back on. What did you do to the lifters ?. Please we need more detail pictures and discription when it comes to cams, timing belts. We all impressed and greatly appriciate your effert in this matter. Thanks again. Sark

 

I wonder if any improvement in steering feel can be had by using delrin or new steering rack bushings?