308 AC Replacement Parts??? | Page 2 | FerrariChat

308 AC Replacement Parts???

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Sean F., Sep 26, 2004.

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  1. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

    Jun 20, 2003
    6,687
    North shore, MA
    Full Name:
    THE Birdman
    Thanks guys! I have a dead York compressor in the Mondial and I'm trying to decide if I rebuild it, replace it with a new one, or convert to rotary.

    Best,

    Birdman
     
  2. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,017
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    Birdman,
    If you want to go the sanden route, remember:
    Hose ends must be converted & hose lengths may be an issue.

    Unlike the York style compressors which have an oil sump, the rotary compressors (Sanden, et al) are mostly lubricated by oil that's dissolved in the refrigerant.

    If you're going to run R134A this implies:

    You will have to have the system completely flushed to get all the old mineral oil out. Best done by a refrig. shop using a refrigerant flush. The 'solvent' based flush kits don't really do an adequate job, & it's very hard to get the solvent back out, even with a very long vacuuming.

    Also must replace the dryer as can't really get all the mineral oil out of it.

    Probably a couple of other critical things I'm not remembering right now.

    It's these things that drive the conversion cost way up, not just the compressor's price.
     
  3. Sean F.

    Sean F. F1 Rookie

    Feb 4, 2003
    3,060
    Kansas
    Full Name:
    Sean F
    Verrell,

    I did all those things and the total cost was less than $500 for all parts, labor, etc. The flush was not a solvent based flush and I used an oil which will work in R134 where R12 is present ( I believe you pointed me towards this PAG maybe??? or was it POE, I keep getting them mixed up). New Mercedes dryer which fit fine.

    Either way, Steve Carr supplied all the parts for me and he was aware that I was converting an old system and he advised I do all the stuff you just mentioned.

    Vacuum was pulled, then stopped to see if it would hold. It did for ~15-minutes with NO change in pressure. Then it was turned back on for 45-minutes to remove all moisture. Then the system was charged and it blew nice and cold.

    The only thing I have not done, which Steve Advised I do was re-wire the AC switch to turn on BOTH fans and not just the passenger side fan. He said this would help improve cooling during low speed driving and give me a slight drop in air temp. as well as allow a little more refrig. in the system (since the car obviously cannot be moving while we were charging it, we were at the limit of what we could blow into it).

    Note that the later cars had a low P cut off switch built into the dryer (the new drier has a port for this) but my car had a switch down stream of the dryer.

    Rebuilding is an option, but even Carl Rose who wrote the AC article on the tech. forums on f - t a l k said he would advice against rebuilding. They just never seem to be the same after a rebuild. Buy new or retro to a different system (note that Steve had the York - but with the wrong clutch so you'll have to remove yours - new price was considerablly less than NAPA, who's website now asks $399 for a York New compressor)
     
  4. Artvonne

    Artvonne F1 Veteran

    Oct 29, 2004
    5,379
    NWA
    Full Name:
    Paul
    Would one assume by reading all of this thread, that a York that replaces an Aspera, would be considered stock? Will it bolt up to the same bracket and use the same clutch? I dont want a show car, but as my car all seems to be non molested I would kind of like to keep it that way as much as possible. If I replace the hoses, is there a good source that meets or exceeds the original? Would aeroquip hose work with AN fittings? Hose is the one place I would feel okay exceeding the original. And, would R-12 cool significantly better?
     
  5. Sean F.

    Sean F. F1 Rookie

    Feb 4, 2003
    3,060
    Kansas
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    Sean F
    Yes the system will cool better with R-12 as that's what it was originally designed to do. R-12 operatates at a lower pressure

    The Aspera compressor is a direct switch out for the York. The York was built under license in Italy and badged Apera. Note that a Sanden Rotary compressor is OEM for Euro cars. I have no idea why this is but such is life. You can see it at the owners.ferrari.co.uk site on their isoview drawings. I priced brackets to make a OEM like switch but decided $50 for a adapter was better than $400 for the Ferrari brackets. I have a drawing of them somewhere. I suppose you could fabricate a new bracket to look like the OEM but it's really no necessary (again, unless you want to show the car).

    Replacing the hoses with Aeroquip is not necessary. Replacing the hoses with new refrigerant hose is more than adequate but it is a MAJOR PITA to do this.

    The clutch from your Apera should bolt right up to a new York unit. As I recall the York unit is black and the Aspera is silver so buy yourself some engine silver paint and have fun.
     
  6. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,017
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    Yes, it's POE oil that's mineral oil/R12 compatible.

    Did you do the flush, or have a shop do it?

    Could you post the P/N for the Mercedes dryer that you used & approx price?

    Earlier users have reported success with commercially rebuilt YORKs from NAPA at about $200.

    However, new Yorks are available for $229 at www.rparts.com's web site, so it's moot.

    The $500 is about what I would expect for your type of conversion.
     
  7. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,017
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    You have to have hoses made up using fittings from your hoses. The barrier hose material being used now is definitely superior to the OEM hose. Much less permeable to refrigerant.

    Scan the archives (may have to wait for the old fchat archives to come back online). There's some pretty detailed descriptons on how to change out the hoses. Seems to be best to get them in place before crimping the fittings on one end.
     
  8. Sean F.

    Sean F. F1 Rookie

    Feb 4, 2003
    3,060
    Kansas
    Full Name:
    Sean F
    I did the flush. Poured the stuff in a used air to blow it thru the system and catch it at the other end. Came out clean after a few blow thru's.

    The PN is BMW unit - (not Merc. my mistake) UAC Part# RD0954T. UAC was the brand of dryer Steve had at his shop. I'm sure it's a replacement and not OEM. Note that it has 3-brackets on it to mount the unit on a BMW. I simply cut them off, painted over it with flat black and it fit just fine. List price was $89 and Steve gave it to me for $39.
     
  9. maurice70

    maurice70 F1 Rookie

    Jan 25, 2004
    4,319
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    maurice T
    Sean did you use compressed air to do the flush?If so that was a big no no .Air has moisture in it and the last thing we want in a refrigeration system is moisture.Moisture will find it's way to the orifice of the tx valve and could freeze up and block the refrigerant flow.It will then pump itself down,cut out on L/P and then when the ice melts wil start up and do the whole thing again.You would of had to keep it on a vac pump for a long time.You should use dry nitrogen to purge the flushing agent through.Hope this helps,But again if you used dry nitrogen then this wouldn't apply to you but may apply to anyone who is thing of doing the same.
     
  10. Sean F.

    Sean F. F1 Rookie

    Feb 4, 2003
    3,060
    Kansas
    Full Name:
    Sean F
    It was kept under Vac for almost an hour to remove the moisture before I charged it. That should be done regardless.
     

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