News

328 Deck Liner removal??

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Chiaro_Slag, Nov 10, 2003.

  1. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
    7,731
    CA
    Full Name:
    Jerry
    #1 Chiaro_Slag, Nov 10, 2003
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Arrggh, getting frustrated. :-(

    Does anyone know how to remove these? Is there a resource I can refer to for these type of things??

    And also, who the hell invented rivets? Were these the work of the devil? What is the best way to remove these things??
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  2. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
    7,731
    CA
    Full Name:
    Jerry
    #2 Chiaro_Slag, Nov 10, 2003
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    ***Update***

    I almost have all the pieces out.... I have the rear, side windows out, and most of the panels - Few panels remaining - See circled items -

    1) The back piece seems to be attached from the engine, but I can't seem to get to it from the engine bay....
    2) That middle piece doesn't seem to want to unscrew all the way...

    Please, has anyone done this before?? I am losing it over here.... Proof why an accountant shouldn't be doing this! :)

    I would show the current picture, but it is quite frightening!!! My baby!!

    Anyway, the circled parts I can't get off : :-(
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  3. 328GTB

    328GTB Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Jun 4, 2002
    287
    Texas, USA
    Full Name:
    Carmine
    The back and middle pieces are accessible once you remove the heat shield from the engine compartment.

    There's a gas ventillation tube connecting both tanks being held up with 3 clamps; one in the middle, and one on each side (LH, RH). There's also a 7mm braided cloth hose that's strapped with black plastic ties to this tube. All this stuff is right under the deck. Take all this apart, and the heat shield can be removed. Once out of the way, the small center piece you have circled can be uncrewed. Also, the back panels have screws that can only be removed once the heat shield is out of the way.

    Tha's the stage I'm at right now.

    What I want to know is how you removed the windows. I have a GTB so the frame that holds the windows is different. Also, did ou remove the seatbelt bolts? Are the flat panels ribetted to the body under the windows?

    Let us know how you make out. And please, do!!! post pictures of your progress.

    Regards
    Carmine
     
  4. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
    7,731
    CA
    Full Name:
    Jerry
    #4 Chiaro_Slag, Nov 11, 2003
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Thanks GTB - I feared the heat shield had to be removed. :-(

    Could they make this any harder??? Good god. I just want to officially announce my distaste for rivets!

    Ok here is a pic - Note, I have broken the back piece trying to figure out how to remove the damn thing!! :-( I have all the carpet removed also - I have recieved my new carpet from GAHH & I am getting ready to install. Note the rubber trim is removed because I had to drill out some rivets to get to some pieces that were covered in carpet.

    I need to find the material to recover these back pieces.

    Close your eyes & squint when you view my wounded baby :
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  5. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
    7,731
    CA
    Full Name:
    Jerry
    The back windows I removed as follows :

    Took off the louver for more room. Gently started pushing from the inside/bottom of the window. Gradually worked out the entire assembly. The rubber gasket on the inside needs to pop out.

    Once removed, there are rivets to be drilled out to remove the moulding pieces.

    Yes, I removed all the seat belt pieces.
     
  6. atheyg

    atheyg Guest

    Reorginals has the material I think its Italian wool for about $160.00 a yard

    Ferrari covered the rear panels in leather as a option, I would opt to replace with that vs the cloth, I cleaned mine up with Oxy clean, the wool seems to absorb all smells over the years and would do it again, leather would be nicer, easier to maintain and more durable
     
  7. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
    7,731
    CA
    Full Name:
    Jerry
    Thanks - I'll look into the leather - Who carries that product?
     
  8. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
    7,731
    CA
    Full Name:
    Jerry
    I think I will go with the material - worlduph was telling me the leather is pretty hard to work with....

    I am surprised at how much the material costs - About $400 for the rear deck. Has anyone replaced this before? Any better prices around?

    I also want to replace the targa top material - Looks like it goes for $200.
     
  9. Gianluca

    Gianluca Formula Junior

    May 6, 2003
    349
    Centreville, Virgini
    Full Name:
    Gianluca Chegai
    Slag,
    I surely understand you frustration as I just finished this very same job.
    To remove rivets, just drill them, on the large flange, with a largish drill bit; 1/4"-3/8. The idea is to separate the "flange from the body of the rivet without enlarging the hole the rivet goes trough. Use a light touch and the small circle (the flange) will pop right out. Then just remove the barrell with a punch or even with pliers.
    Howeve, I think you are more stuck with the back and little center piece.
    As other have mentioned, these parts are bolted to the rear firewall and to get access to them is a ROYAL PITA.
    In fact, just to remove the back aluminium piece (the one inside the engine compartment) is a major problem.
    I simply forced the aluminium piece until I could get to the 3 nuts that hold the long horizzontal piece.
    I will be pulling my engine soon so I will make that area nice again. But it can be pushed back without much fuss.
    I had no way to remove the little piece. I cut it off and welded a stud back on it. The nut was rusted and extremely difficult to get to it. I was lucky as the stud is a bit in contrast with the hole and the little piece is very stationary and hold the panel just right. Will replace the nut once I pull the engine.

    About the leather, I do not think that it is difficult at all. Infact I think is a whole lot easier than cloth. Also the Ferrari people, must have used the worst and cheapest craftspeople they could get! I was totally unimpressed by the leather was applied but it is true that you do not get to see the inside!
    Leather is, however, usually more expensive than cloth but, for $ 160.00 a yard for Italian wool, it is a wash.

    Leather is sold most frequently by the side (1/2 a steer) but some people sell the whole hide. Often the whole hides are more expensive that the sides because their use if for upholstery and they need to meet certain requirement. Expect to pay 8-10 $ ft2 for a whole hide (average 55 ft2)
    You do not need a whole hide. A side would be enough to finish the job. Leather stretches quite a bit. Also a cheaper grade would work just fine as there is no work the leather has to do. $ 4-5 ft2
    So a large side (30 ft2) would cost about $ 150.

    Since I had to strip all the original leather and recolor it, I used all the different scraps I had at my shop (bookbindery).
    I did apply 1/8 foam to every piece before covering but the leather goes on without backing.
    I use Weldwood Contact Cement and Liquid Nails Contact Cement (same stuff)

    Started with a very dark brown, stripped with paint stripper and re-dyed it with the Leatherique dye. It worked like a charm.

    Now, this was a slower process than just buy the leather in the proper color and do the job. Actually stripping was the worst part. Covering the new panels was quick and pleasureable.

    If you are interested, I may have some skins or scraps that may work. They would have to be stripped, though.

    A very nice leather company is Garrett Leather and the deal in the whole hide or just with sides. Their leather is generally a high grade but prices do change between the different styles they have. I only would use them is you are after a very specific color, though. Their catalog is very complete.

    This project can be a bit intimidating and time consuming but it should be easy and possibly the very most bang for the bucks!

    My car did look worst than yours as I took the insulation out too!

    If you need further help, email me and we can talk over the phone.
     
  10. Gianluca

    Gianluca Formula Junior

    May 6, 2003
    349
    Centreville, Virgini
    Full Name:
    Gianluca Chegai
  11. Gianluca

    Gianluca Formula Junior

    May 6, 2003
    349
    Centreville, Virgini
    Full Name:
    Gianluca Chegai
  12. Gianluca

    Gianluca Formula Junior

    May 6, 2003
    349
    Centreville, Virgini
    Full Name:
    Gianluca Chegai
  13. Gianluca

    Gianluca Formula Junior

    May 6, 2003
    349
    Centreville, Virgini
    Full Name:
    Gianluca Chegai
  14. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
    7,731
    CA
    Full Name:
    Jerry
    Great Post - Thanks!

    You have mail.
     
  15. ScuderiaRossa

    ScuderiaRossa Formula 3

    Mar 22, 2001
    2,076
    Hey guys, I knew changing the rear deck fabric was a pain, but your accounts and pics really hammer it home. I was debating what to do about mine, because it had water stains from the leaky 3/4 rear windows. I decided to try fabric cleaner first, before changing everything. After trying Oxyclean, which didn't work too well, I bought some Zymol fabric cleaner, mixed it with salt-free seltzer water, and it really did the trick.

    I'm really impressed with your tenacity and ingenuity. If I ever decide to take the plunge, this is the thread I'll go back to!
     
  16. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
    7,731
    CA
    Full Name:
    Jerry
    While I have it all apart, is there anything I can do to prevent the rear side windows from leaking?
     
  17. 328GTB

    328GTB Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Jun 4, 2002
    287
    Texas, USA
    Full Name:
    Carmine
    Slag,

    Here's your engine picure with markings for a better description:
    BTW, I tried sending email to utslag@hotmail.com and it bounced.
     
  18. 328GTB

    328GTB Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Jun 4, 2002
    287
    Texas, USA
    Full Name:
    Carmine
    BTW, A, B, C, are the brackets that hold the pipe and the heatshield together.
     
  19. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Dec 6, 2002
    70,447
    Houston, Texas
    Full Name:
    Bubba
    Man, that white is awesome!

    Reoriginal in Houston, Texas can get all leather colors as well as cloth, I think.
     
  20. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
    7,731
    CA
    Full Name:
    Jerry
    Thanks GTB - My email was getting over loaded - I deleted a bunch of messages and should be good again. :)

    Did you get my email? I hope it was helpful.

    Still not sure what I have to do with the heat shield - I am familiar with the areas you have outlined on the pic, but not sure what steps I need to take-

    How are the straps removed? Once removed, can I move the pipes, or do I have to unscrew them from the tank?

    Can you outline me the steps to take?

    Per your steps above :

    "There's also a 7mm braided cloth hose that's strapped with black plastic ties to this tube. All this stuff is right under the deck. Take all this apart, and the heat shield can be removed."

    Keep in mind I'm an accountant, with no prior mechanical skills, so if you can, you need to hold my hand a bit about which parts I need to disassemble.

    Thanks so much for your patience & help!

    PS, my engine looks ugly there - I need to get a new pic after the major service, lol. :)
     
  21. peajay

    peajay Formula Junior

    Apr 17, 2002
    454
    near Paris, France
    Full Name:
    Paul
    I've tried Oxyclean aslo and although it has helped, it did not get out one area that has a stain, where can I get the Zymol that you mention ?
     
  22. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
    7,731
    CA
    Full Name:
    Jerry
  23. 328GTB

    328GTB Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Jun 4, 2002
    287
    Texas, USA
    Full Name:
    Carmine
    Slag,

    You need to remove the heat shield to remove D. See attached. To remove the straps, use a long hex socket (I can't remember which mm size) to unscrew the clams that I show in my previous pic. Then you can move the pie out of the way. No need to disconnect from the tank.

    How's E removed?

    Let me know if I'm not clear.
     
  24. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
    7,731
    CA
    Full Name:
    Jerry
    Thanks - I'll take another look at it tonight.

    To remove E, F, and C do the following :

    Remove Seat belt bolt. Remove Vertical strip that is not labled with a letter - Mine had a plug in the top and a screw in the bottom - Looks like your top may be a rivet - That would have to be drilled out.

    Then you need to remove the side / rear window. Start from the bottom and kind of work around the window, pressing from the inside. I removed the louver to give me more space. Eventually you pop the gasket and window out. Gianluca had a very helpful post here :

    R&R of 308GTS "roof" trim, how ?

    http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=632

    Once you get the window out, there are rivets holding in E, F, and C that will need to be drilled out. Part E is held in with 1 rivet. Here is what the window look like once removed :

    http://www.dt-clan.com/Slag/328/Moudling%20&%20Carpet%20Replacing/Rear%20Side%20Window.JPG

    2 rivets each holding in F and C and then 1 rivet for part E.
     

Share This Page