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328 Engine is out!

Discussion in '308/328' started by Rod, Jan 8, 2020.

  1. Rod

    Rod Formula Junior

    Jan 18, 2004
    846
    South Derbyshire
    Full Name:
    Rod
    Well I posted here last month with a potential gearbox issue... In the end I decided to remove the engine.. A massive thank you to a fellow Fchat member who helped/did most of the work in removing the engine! It took 30 mins to get the engine out but all day to get it ready!

    Whilst the engine is going away to be looked at by a specialist it will give me a chance to tidy and refurb the engine bay making the car much more nicer.

    Jobs list
    1) clean every thing!
    2) Paint chassis frame black.. (is it just satin black)?
    3) Replace all fuel pipes (the tank to pump pipe should I buy from ferrari)?
    4) replace all water hoses (silicon) matt black?
    5) replace the heat foam which is either missing or poor! (sourced similar to original)
    6) Paint the fuel tanks (protection looks ok think they just need a silver top coat?) just find close match?
    7) Paint/powder coat/zinc all brackets etc
    8) Paint expansion/head tank, top is ok but bottom is a little flaky.... (Gloss black)?
    9) strip the half shafts, grease and paint/refurb
    10)Remove the shocks/strings and refurb
    11) replace all clips etc with stainless?
    12) Remove and clean coil pack
    13) refinish top of engine bay where id tags sit
    14) polish exhaust and manifolds (new gaskets all round)
    15) clean and polish all heat shields
    16) Fuel pump Do I leave alone if ok? (Just clean)
    17) Fuel filter was changed last year along with the flexi pipe
    18) Refresh the oil cooler

    Quite a bit of work to do but hopefully it will be time well spent and help maintain the car to a decent standard?

    The engine/box will be checked over for the initial problem and then I will have any other issues looked at such as diff seals etc... (not aware of any thing else wrong)

    I will get both the starter and alternator rebuilt/rebushed to be on the safe side.

    Busy at the minute but will update as I go... (sourcing parts as we speak)

    Feel free to add any comments/advise etc!


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  2. yelcab

    yelcab F1 Veteran
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    9,509
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    Long fun list. Good luck.
     
  3. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
    Sponsor Owner

    Sep 3, 2002
    5,135
    Toronto / SoCal
    Full Name:
    Rob C.
    Congratulations on the engine pull. I did mine two years ago and just pulled the engine on my Lamborghini a few days ago. Cleaning will do wonders to how things look and here are some things I learned along the way:

    - Some good cleaners are WD40 on the aluminum with a stiff bristle brush. The WD40 will wick dirt out of the aluminum castings. Another great cleaner is Simple Green but make sure it is very hot as it makes a huge difference to its effectiveness.

    - Painting the chassis is quite a big job so you may want to be ready for it. I prefer to use proper 2 pack paint with a gun as it is very durable and dries fast. If you plan on using a rattle can, satin trim black should be very close to original.

    - Silicone hoses are not essential but I would replace every single hose I can get access to. If you choose to replace the hoses that run to the heater core this is a pretty involved job but again the task to take on when the engine is out.

    - Fuel tanks can be cleaned and re-sprayed with aluminum matt silver paint. They will look incredible when re-done.

    - Painting and plating of brackets can really get out of hand fast. When I did my 308 the engine bay had over 600 pcs I ended up getting re-plated. Prep work is essential and do not count on the acid bath of the plater to clean your old parts. You need to glass blast or wire wheel every single part to get the scale off so that the plating looks factory perfect.

    - I have seen both gloss black and satin black expansion tanks. Do your research because I cannot comment on what is correct

    - Try and get your shocks re-built rather than replaced. They are date coded to the car and the new ones are a different shade of red.

    - If you are plating then re-do all of your hose clamps rather than replace them. If you insist on replacing the clamps then Zebra or Norma brand clamps are an excellent option that look proper.

    - When cleaning the heat shields, again WD40 and a gentle scouring pad works wonders

    Best of luck with the project and be sure to post pics.
     
    Cirorsi likes this.
  4. Crowndog

    Crowndog F1 Veteran
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jul 16, 2011
    6,861
    Fairfield,Pa
    Full Name:
    Robert
    May want to take the opportunity to replace the motor mounts.
     
  5. yelcab

    yelcab F1 Veteran
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    9,509
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    I have only seen satin overflow tanks. The few glossy ones I saw were obviously done afterward and of poor quality of a job.
     
  6. kiwiokie

    kiwiokie Formula Junior

    Aug 19, 2013
    725
    Tulsa, OK
    I used POR-15 chassis coat black for the engine bay. Bought a quart tin and brushed on mostly. Used spray can for some areas that were harder to reach. I like brushing on as it avoids overspray and the finish is nit critical. It is a semi-gloss whereas it looks like the original finish on my GT4 was flat black.


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  7. ferrariowner

    ferrariowner Formula Junior

    Feb 21, 2014
    533
    Mansfield, TX
    Full Name:
    Ron
    I am a 'while your in there' replace it guy. Motor mounts, fuel pump & accumulator. I don't want to get stuck on the side of the road. Everything is over 30 years old. Don't forget brake lines.
     
  8. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed Owner

    Feb 24, 2006
    13,484
    Cerritos, CA.
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Might be a good time to replace shift shat seals too.
     
  9. Rod

    Rod Formula Junior

    Jan 18, 2004
    846
    South Derbyshire
    Full Name:
    Rod
    Just changed them, that's what got me into the position!

     
  10. Rod

    Rod Formula Junior

    Jan 18, 2004
    846
    South Derbyshire
    Full Name:
    Rod
    Its a fair shout, I did replace the fuel filter last year along with the braided flexi.... Getting to the fuel pump is ok...

    Some one has said about changing the water pump?


     
  11. Rod

    Rod Formula Junior

    Jan 18, 2004
    846
    South Derbyshire
    Full Name:
    Rod
    Thanks for all your words of wisdom... There are some really great points here which I will take on board...

    I think as you say, just a good clean will transform the entire engine bay



     
  12. Alfer

    Alfer Formula 3

    Sep 4, 2007
    1,229
    NH/the Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Menno
    Rod, i found some pics about removing the remains of the old isolation on the rear sode of the engine. Note that I did this with the engine in. You can see that there are several different shaped parts that go behind the final insulation. These looked in my 328 made from the same material as the final insulation. Pi 1 shows that all old stuff is removed and all is cleaned with massive white spirit. Pic 2 shows the Isoproq 10 mm engine bay insulation used as replacement. Pic 4 shows 3 of the parts that sits behind the outside (visible) insulation where I used the old parts as templete. Pic 3 shows the new ones mounted (self adhesive).
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    Rod likes this.
  13. Alfer

    Alfer Formula 3

    Sep 4, 2007
    1,229
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    Menno
  14. Milkshaker0007

    Milkshaker0007 Formula Junior

    Sep 22, 2012
    269
    West Midlands,uk
    Full Name:
    Paul
    nice work on pulling the engine Rod, good luck with the repairs and tidying up.
    i'm sure like others, the words whilst i'm in here will be used at lot :)
     
  15. Rod

    Rod Formula Junior

    Jan 18, 2004
    846
    South Derbyshire
    Full Name:
    Rod
    Thanks Paul, Another Fchat member was the brains behind the operation! Hopefully I will get every thing looking nice again! At least the zircon compressor is now out so I can add the convertors!


    \
     
  16. Rod

    Rod Formula Junior

    Jan 18, 2004
    846
    South Derbyshire
    Full Name:
    Rod
    Thanks.... The top layer has disintegrated Is it worth removing the lower layer or leave alone? What do you think?


     

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  17. nerofer

    nerofer F1 World Champ

    Mar 26, 2011
    10,190
    FRANCE
    While you're at it, and with the engine out of your way, it would be a pity not to do it...you won't have a chance to do it easily onec the engien will be in place again?

    Rgds
     
    Rod and Milkshaker0007 like this.
  18. Alfer

    Alfer Formula 3

    Sep 4, 2007
    1,229
    NH/the Netherlands
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    Menno
    Fully agree with Nerofer, now you can do it and its just a dirty job requiring patienece. However also the disintegrated material will be given poor support to the new (self-adhesive) toplayer.
     
    Rod likes this.
  19. Rod

    Rod Formula Junior

    Jan 18, 2004
    846
    South Derbyshire
    Full Name:
    Rod
    ok.. you have convinced me....I assume you use the same stuff as a base and top?


     
  20. Alfer

    Alfer Formula 3

    Sep 4, 2007
    1,229
    NH/the Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Menno
    yes I did
     
    Rod likes this.
  21. Rod

    Rod Formula Junior

    Jan 18, 2004
    846
    South Derbyshire
    Full Name:
    Rod
    Does any one know if these connectors or available? they connect to the coil pack.. They are a black plastic cover and I guess with age have become brittle so have broken.. any suggestions?


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  22. thorn

    thorn Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 7, 2012
    2,253
    Tallahassee, FL
  23. Rod

    Rod Formula Junior

    Jan 18, 2004
    846
    South Derbyshire
    Full Name:
    Rod
  24. Rod

    Rod Formula Junior

    Jan 18, 2004
    846
    South Derbyshire
    Full Name:
    Rod
  25. yelcab

    yelcab F1 Veteran
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    9,509
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    Both nuts and bolts come off. You have the nuts off but not the bolts. But it looks like the mount is rusted to the frame.
     

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