(I tried a FC-wide search for this problem:no results, hence new thread ...) The right-side heater switch on my 328 has two "sliding scales" of lights. One directs the airflow to windscreen/floor/off, and the other adjusts the temperature (red dot ... blue dot). The directing function (and lights) works, but the temperature function (and lights) does not. Pressing the red or blue end does nothing. Has anyone here had a similar experience? Does it mean that I have to replace the whole switch unit? Or could it be an electrical contact problem, fixable by removing the switch and checking its connections? If so, how do I remove the unit? Thanks for any wise advice.
I think taking it out to take a look would be your best bet. To remove it - use a flat scraper to lift up a little bit from the leather, and then you can probably remove the rest by hand. It's held in place by two spring clip. One in the front and one in the rear. Once removed, look at the conditions of the internals. You might be able to clean it with the contact cleaner from Radio Shack. If you need to replace it, Ferrari UK has it for about 125 pounds. The left and right are not interchangeable. Also, if you can find a F-chatter that has a 328 that is willing to swap out the control unit - it would quickly pinpoint your problem - be it the switch itself or other electrical issue. Good luck Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
You may want to check up by the heater cores where the duct servo motors and plugs are. Especially if there is any kind of a heater core leak, there can easily be a weak connection in the plug that goes to the motor. Have an assitant sit in the car and activate the switch while you fiddle with the plug connections and check for voltage. Mark
Those switch modules are known to have a few weak cold solders that can come apart, causing intermittent or failed operation of the lights or function. I had a friend fix mine (lights were the problem), he found a couple bad solder connections, and fixed them. Worked perfectly after! So you might try taking your switch to someone good with electronics repair and have them go through all the solder connections on the board inside.
Hi Rachane, Mark gives good advice above. One other thing you might try - there is a section in the technical manual about adjusting the "sensitivity" via a small screw in the base of the switch. Tech bulletin #80-36 dated 2/89; if you don't have this drop me an email at: [email protected] & I'll send you out a CD-ROM. Best, Carl
I agree with this. I had the same problem when I took my car out of storage in spring. The right one as well. All I did was take it out and pull it apart and play with it. I don't even remember much about what I did, but I concluded that by unplugging and plugging it back in I probably helped the current again, which probably solved mine. Maybe try that. But Dave's right. I had an overactive light in another switch and was thinking of buying a new one, but that would take one out of circulation for someone else , so I found a guy and he simply replaced my light. Quicker and cheaper than buying one.
At this time the local Ferrari-repair wizard, Geoff Provo of Redwood City, is examining the little fellow's guts to see if it's repairable. Sure hope so, because asking at the Parts Department of Ferrari Silicon Valley = Part #61808200 = $550! EeeeYOW! If this switch is kaput, I will check with Ricambi et al.
anyone know how this ended up? i have lights that seem to have a mind of their own, even though the mechanical side of air flaps and heater valves work perfectly.
Have you removed the switch to manipulate the potentiometers yet? My pass. side switch temp control was amok until I did this and while it's not perfect it's much better.
Similar problem to what I had. As I posted before, I had a friend who was an electronics wiz take a look at it. He said there were several bad cold solders inside. He touched them up and sent it back to me, and it worked perfectly. He said his TR, which has a similar controller, has the same issue. The controllers are generally fine, just some bad solders that fail with age.
I had this happen years ago when I had a 328 . I removed the switch and sprayed contact cleaner into it via the openings in the rear of the switch. It came back to normal function. Little to lose since it is a cheap and easy repair and the switch needs to come out regardless. Mark
I know I posted stuff about this...as a matter of fact there was a service bulletinb on the adjustment of these..I think I posted that too. I checked & I can't find anything ...what the heck?
My units had stopped working for a while. Oddly enough, after I had power disconnected for an hour or so while changing the battery, they came back.
hello everybody, My led on my right switch heater does not light. I put some W40 ont it and replugged it but it still does not work. I found potentiometers on the back. I hesitated to touch it. Would you have an idea wich one should i try for the LED airflow ? Best regards, EP75. Image Unavailable, Please Login
It is possible that the contacts on the potentiometers have gotten dirty, causing your problem, but it is unlikely. The purpose of the potentiometers is to adjust the leds to match the action of the heater valve and vent duct. In other words when the controller is on fully hot, all the lights are on, and when closed, all the lights are off. Same for the vent. One way to test, would be to mark the position of the poteniometers, then rotate each one back and forth several times, then return it to the original position. See if it fixes your problem. There is a full procedure for adjusting the poteniometers, it is in the factory service bulletin listed here: http://ferrari.cdyn.com/service_bulletins/sb80-36.pdf
Thank really much for you reply. I will try to do that and let you know the result. Regards from Paris, EP75.
Hi, here are news. F355spider, i did exactly what you said and it works very well now. I just changed one potentometer and now that 's perfect. Thanks really much for all advises. EP75. Still looking for a turn signal orange/white right side.
All 4 of my controls are a little flaky at one time or another. I've tested the continuity at the switches and they all seem good so, I don't think they are the problem. So, I am now suspecting the connections at the servo motors. Can anyone tell me exactly where they are an how to get to them (from under the dash)?
Are you not getting heat at all or do the lights not come on or go off? The lights can be calibrated so they all go on or off as they should. I just did this yesterday as my last light on both switches was not going off.
FWIW, these switches and motors need to be used. I find that if I don't make a point of using them they can and do stick. So far to get them unstuck all I've had to do is keep pressing the switch and eventually they start working. I try & remember to "exercise" them every time I run the car now.
I did also do the LED calibration and they are calibrated perfectly (that's not really the problem). The LED's are accurately showing what is happening. Occasionally the doors get stuck and don't move. I also agree that eventually they do start moving again if you exercise them. I was just thinking maybe I also need to check the connections at the servo motors.
Can someone recommend a repair facility for these switches? After several attempts by locals, I'd like to send them to someone with experience restoring these particular parts.
