328 Wheel bearings and keeping your car on the road

phild328 · Dec 29, 2010

There may be other threads on the subject, but I just thought I would share my 10+ years of experience owning a 328. I finally got around to repacking the front wheel bearing the other day. This is a must-do that I think is being overlooked by current owners (including myself). If you don't have a record of it being done, then do it now. 308 bearings are a couple dollars each, but 328 bearings are $800 each. Part prices are getting insane. Not only are you saving a lot of money, you are keeping some parts on the shelves for people who really need them latter. There is no reason the wheel bearings can not last the lifetime of the car. But grease doesn't last the lifetime of the car. At 25 years of age, the grease is dried up and failing. This is true of any exposed bearing. It is a super easy job. Take the wheel off, remove the two bolts holding on the brake caliper and move the caliper to the side without it hanging from the brake line. Remove the two bolts holding on the brake rotor. Remove rotor. If either bolts or rotor are stuck, PB Blast them, if that doesn't do it, warm them up with a blow torch (not so hot to warp the rotors though). Remove the ground wire from the back of the hub. Remove the bolts in the back that hold the wheel hub to the steering knuckle. Remove the wheel bearing. Clean the wheel bearing in a parts cleaner. Repack with good fresh grease (I used a whole lot and filled the whole back bearing cover). Reassemble. Refer to manual for torques. Get a pdf manual if you don't already have one, see other threads.
So it takes less than an hour and it saves you $800 in parts on each wheel. It is a no brainer. Don't assume yours are good. Why not just do it and know for sure.

You also need to keep an eye on all your other bearings.
Repack your CV joints and put on new boots. (can use fiat boots)

Replace timing belt idler bearings. (usually done with timing belts)

Replace timing drive bearings.
Ok, this one is not at all fun. At least it was not for me since my bearings were beyond stuck in there. But it is worth doing because of the massive engine damage that could be caused by a failure. You need to buy a blind bearing puller. See other threads on the subject. Do it if it has never been done. Again it is an age thing, not a mileage thing. The grease can be dried up.

Grease your door hinges. So easy, but can be overlooked.

Ok, now other-than-bearings:
Apply plastic protector coatings to the fog lights. I also did turn signals while I was at it. Some people want $3000 a piece for the fog lights. Or at min $800 for a repo set of lens.

Check cooling system pressure and fix leaks. It is probably leaking and you just don't know it. It might not drip, but there is a good chance it isn't holding pressure. I had the radiator cleaned and soldered since mine was leaking. It was well worth it.

Replace the shift seal. This one is another PIA. You can do it with the engine in the car, I have. The seal gets brittle with age and will allow engine oil in the the gearbox oil. So either replace it, or replace your transmission down the road.

Replace your gear oil. After you do the shift seal, you should replace the gear oil. I used Mobil 1 and it shifts as good as a 328 is going to shift. It might be a good idea to top off the gear oil through the transfer gear case in case it is leaking a little. I do not think oil is pumped into it, so if it runs dry you are in trouble.

Replace your brake fluid. Just a normal thing for all cars, but thought I would throw it in the list here.

Of course, everyone knows to replace the timing belts. And everyone knows of all the other normal things that apply to all cars.

Those are the major things I can think of right now. Please do these things if you have no record of them being done. Keep another car on the road. Everything is easy except the shift seal and timing drive bearings, but given the expense of these two things failing, they are well worth doing.

HarfooT · Dec 29, 2010

Thanks for this, good food for thought.

bill brooks · Dec 29, 2010

with the exception of front wheel bearings, timing belts, and cv joints,
i do all of the above every year.

JoeZaff · Dec 29, 2010

Great points! People become fixated on timing belts and the "major" as if that is the only service these cars need. These cars aren't getting any younger and you can only expect old rubber and grease to work for so long.

I've done just about everything on your list as part of my preventative maintenance schedule.

viper_driver · Dec 29, 2010

lubricate the shifter. this is the part I'm talking about. Like you say with the wheel bearings, this part would last forever if grease keeps it from grinding stainless on aluminum.
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jonesdds · Dec 29, 2010

Good info. To the original OP, what year is your car? Only the front bearings? I wonder the differences between the 88.5-89 models with revised suspensions as far as bearings are concerned.

Jeff

mustardfj40 · Dec 30, 2010

'89 has the more expensive bearings:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261685&highlight=348+front+bearing

Kevin Rev'n · Dec 30, 2010

What is so special about the 89 bearings?

Iain · Dec 30, 2010

Darryl Revok said: ↑

What is so special about the 89 bearings?
Click to expand...

They're made of that rare earth metal "Ferrarium" (like just about everything else you care to think of on an 89 )

The alternator clearly has a Ferrarium core as do the plug leads & various other parts!

jgoodman · Dec 30, 2010

Iain said: ↑

They're made of that rare earth metal "Ferrarium" (like just about everything else you care to think of on an 89 )

The alternator clearly has a Ferrarium core as do the plug leads & various other parts!
Click to expand...

Funny!

The suspension bushings and bearings and rear half shaft bearings are all on my short list for 2011.

mike996 · Dec 30, 2010

Have you cross-referenced the bearings at a bearing supplier? SInce Ferrari never made bearings, they sourced them from people who did and though I guess it's possible, it seems very unlikely that they are one-off "1989 Ferrari bearings."

Kevin Rev'n · Dec 30, 2010

From the other thread posted above, it looks like the bearing assembly has an extra beefy outer race with a through hole pattern in it. It may be pulling double duty as a "spacer" which may be a function of the "offset" for the convex wheel constraint.

Is there an isue with the alternator in 89's as well?

mike996 · Dec 30, 2010

What is the number on the wheel bearing in question? All bearings are standard and a bearing to fit any application has the same number regardless of who manufactures it.

Iain · Dec 30, 2010

Darryl Revok said: ↑

From the other thread posted above, it looks like the bearing assembly has an extra beefy outer race with a through hole pattern in it. It may be pulling double duty as a "spacer" which may be a function of the "offset" for the convex wheel constraint.

Is there an isue with the alternator in 89's as well?
Click to expand...

Don't know about the wheel bearings but the Alternator is just a Bosch unit - which Ferrari want about $1500 for!!

Not sure its ever been cross referenced with any other part/car but it seems that its internals are just standard Bosch so they can be rebuilt fairly easily - same with the starters I think (now also $1500).

Why Ferrari think its OK to charge such a price for the things is anybody's guess. They even list them as "Alternator Bosch" and "Starter Motor Bosch" !

Outer cam-drive bearings (121274) on a 328 are another "special" - about $180 each I think

Oh and that outer front wheel bearing? Part #112799, now listed at $750 near enough.

https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/PagesExternal/ViewExploded.aspx?PageID=1149

Rifledriver · Dec 30, 2010

mike996 said: ↑

What is the number on the wheel bearing in question? All bearings are standard and a bearing to fit any application has the same number regardless of who manufactures it.
Click to expand...

Been there done that. It was made for an obscure Citroen. And we have proven on this site several times bearings are not all standard parts, some really are made for an application. That was not unusual practice in European automakers in years past. The Americans and Japanese might just go to a catalog and pick a bearing that will perform and design parts around it but the Europeans often designed and had bearings made to their parts.

ALL 328, F40, TR, 412 and some 348.

Nothing else on earth uses that bearing.

Been discussed here before ad nauseum, researched to death etc.

hanknum · Dec 31, 2010

Hmmm...can't remember the last time I did this. Must mean it is time to repack them.

Thanks for the reminder

Iain · Dec 31, 2010

Found this thread - same wheel bearings?

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261685

toredline · Mar 24, 2023

phild328 said: ↑

There may be other threads on the subject, but I just thought I would share my 10+ years of experience owning a 328. I finally got around to repacking the front wheel bearing the other day. This is a must-do that I think is being overlooked by current owners (including myself). If you don't have a record of it being done, then do it now. 308 bearings are a couple dollars each, but 328 bearings are $800 each. Part prices are getting insane. Not only are you saving a lot of money, you are keeping some parts on the shelves for people who really need them latter. There is no reason the wheel bearings can not last the lifetime of the car. But grease doesn't last the lifetime of the car. At 25 years of age, the grease is dried up and failing. This is true of any exposed bearing. It is a super easy job. Take the wheel off, remove the two bolts holding on the brake caliper and move the caliper to the side without it hanging from the brake line. Remove the two bolts holding on the brake rotor. Remove rotor. If either bolts or rotor are stuck, PB Blast them, if that doesn't do it, warm them up with a blow torch (not so hot to warp the rotors though). Remove the ground wire from the back of the hub. Remove the bolts in the back that hold the wheel hub to the steering knuckle. Remove the wheel bearing. Clean the wheel bearing in a parts cleaner. Repack with good fresh grease (I used a whole lot and filled the whole back bearing cover). Reassemble. Refer to manual for torques. Get a pdf manual if you don't already have one, see other threads.
So it takes less than an hour and it saves you $800 in parts on each wheel. It is a no brainer. Don't assume yours are good. Why not just do it and know for sure.

You also need to keep an eye on all your other bearings.
Repack your CV joints and put on new boots. (can use fiat boots)

Replace timing belt idler bearings. (usually done with timing belts)

Replace timing drive bearings.
Ok, this one is not at all fun. At least it was not for me since my bearings were beyond stuck in there. But it is worth doing because of the massive engine damage that could be caused by a failure. You need to buy a blind bearing puller. See other threads on the subject. Do it if it has never been done. Again it is an age thing, not a mileage thing. The grease can be dried up.

Grease your door hinges. So easy, but can be overlooked.

Ok, now other-than-bearings:
Apply plastic protector coatings to the fog lights. I also did turn signals while I was at it. Some people want $3000 a piece for the fog lights. Or at min $800 for a repo set of lens.

Check cooling system pressure and fix leaks. It is probably leaking and you just don't know it. It might not drip, but there is a good chance it isn't holding pressure. I had the radiator cleaned and soldered since mine was leaking. It was well worth it.

Replace the shift seal. This one is another PIA. You can do it with the engine in the car, I have. The seal gets brittle with age and will allow engine oil in the the gearbox oil. So either replace it, or replace your transmission down the road.

Replace your gear oil. After you do the shift seal, you should replace the gear oil. I used Mobil 1 and it shifts as good as a 328 is going to shift. It might be a good idea to top off the gear oil through the transfer gear case in case it is leaking a little. I do not think oil is pumped into it, so if it runs dry you are in trouble.

Replace your brake fluid. Just a normal thing for all cars, but thought I would throw it in the list here.

Of course, everyone knows to replace the timing belts. And everyone knows of all the other normal things that apply to all cars.

Those are the major things I can think of right now. Please do these things if you have no record of them being done. Keep another car on the road. Everything is easy except the shift seal and timing drive bearings, but given the expense of these two things failing, they are well worth doing.
Click to expand...

toredline · Mar 24, 2023

Hi phild328,

I am planning to service the front wheel bearings on my 328 GTB 1989 (ABS) and read many threads on the subject here. I understand that to do a good job, the bearing has to be removed to allow disassembling, cleaning and repacking. You say "remove the wheel bearing"...and that the process is easy...Reading other threads, it looks like removing the bearing requires a press, pullers and /or other use of potentially damaging force? My question to you is how do you remove the bearing relatively easily? Using a press to push on the inner race through the two holes in the front of the hub (on each side of the Hub Nut) or is there an "easier" method? I have no problems with all the other steps involved in getting this job done. I am looking forward to get your answer to this aspect that nobody so far seems to have covered correctly.

Rifledriver · Mar 24, 2023

Its very easy. The 2 holes are for the use of a small diameter pin punch and with a hammer it can be pushed off. Its just not a big deal. Its how it was intended to be removed.
Care needs to be taken with the seal mounted to one side of the bearing. If that is damaged or knocked off you are in the market for a new bearing.

toredline · Mar 24, 2023

Thanks Rifledriver. I have one more question. Obviously, removing the Hub Nut to disassemble the hub, bearing and shaft assembly sandwich can be done on the bench if proper equipment is available hold the hub securely in place. Can the Hub Nut be also removed (and later retightened to specs) at the onset while the hub assembly is still in place by blocking the disk against the caliper mount to be able to apply 115 ft-lb? Cheers!

Rifledriver · Mar 24, 2023

toredline said: ↑

Thanks Rifledriver. I have one more question. Obviously, removing the Hub Nut to disassemble the hub, bearing and shaft assembly sandwich can be done on the bench if proper equipment is available hold the hub securely in place. Can the Hub Nut be also removed (and later retightened to specs) at the onset while the hub assembly is still in place by blocking the disk against the caliper mount to be able to apply 115 ft-lb? Cheers!
Click to expand...

Yes but. The axle has an indexing pin that fits into a recess of the hub and needs to be in place before nut is run down. You can do that on bench and wait to torque to spec after bearing is mounted.

Easier to remove while its still on the car.

Look up and torque to spec the 6 8mm bolts that attach bearing to upright. They are not standard strength bolts.

moysiuan · Mar 24, 2023

phild328 said: ↑

There may be other threads on the subject, but I just thought I would share my 10+ years of experience owning a 328. I finally got around to repacking the front wheel bearing the other day. This is a must-do that I think is being overlooked by current owners (including myself). If you don't have a record of it being done, then do it now. 308 bearings are a couple dollars each, but 328 bearings are $800 each. Part prices are getting insane. Not only are you saving a lot of money, you are keeping some parts on the shelves for people who really need them latter. There is no reason the wheel bearings can not last the lifetime of the car. But grease doesn't last the lifetime of the car. At 25 years of age, the grease is dried up and failing. This is true of any exposed bearing. It is a super easy job. Take the wheel off, remove the two bolts holding on the brake caliper and move the caliper to the side without it hanging from the brake line. Remove the two bolts holding on the brake rotor. Remove rotor. If either bolts or rotor are stuck, PB Blast them, if that doesn't do it, warm them up with a blow torch (not so hot to warp the rotors though). Remove the ground wire from the back of the hub. Remove the bolts in the back that hold the wheel hub to the steering knuckle. Remove the wheel bearing. Clean the wheel bearing in a parts cleaner. Repack with good fresh grease (I used a whole lot and filled the whole back bearing cover). Reassemble. Refer to manual for torques. Get a pdf manual if you don't already have one, see other threads.
So it takes less than an hour and it saves you $800 in parts on each wheel. It is a no brainer. Don't assume yours are good. Why not just do it and know for sure.

You also need to keep an eye on all your other bearings.
Repack your CV joints and put on new boots. (can use fiat boots)

Replace timing belt idler bearings. (usually done with timing belts)

Replace timing drive bearings.
Ok, this one is not at all fun. At least it was not for me since my bearings were beyond stuck in there. But it is worth doing because of the massive engine damage that could be caused by a failure. You need to buy a blind bearing puller. See other threads on the subject. Do it if it has never been done. Again it is an age thing, not a mileage thing. The grease can be dried up.

Grease your door hinges. So easy, but can be overlooked.

Ok, now other-than-bearings:
Apply plastic protector coatings to the fog lights. I also did turn signals while I was at it. Some people want $3000 a piece for the fog lights. Or at min $800 for a repo set of lens.

Check cooling system pressure and fix leaks. It is probably leaking and you just don't know it. It might not drip, but there is a good chance it isn't holding pressure. I had the radiator cleaned and soldered since mine was leaking. It was well worth it.

Replace the shift seal. This one is another PIA. You can do it with the engine in the car, I have. The seal gets brittle with age and will allow engine oil in the the gearbox oil. So either replace it, or replace your transmission down the road.

Replace your gear oil. After you do the shift seal, you should replace the gear oil. I used Mobil 1 and it shifts as good as a 328 is going to shift. It might be a good idea to top off the gear oil through the transfer gear case in case it is leaking a little. I do not think oil is pumped into it, so if it runs dry you are in trouble.

Replace your brake fluid. Just a normal thing for all cars, but thought I would throw it in the list here.

Of course, everyone knows to replace the timing belts. And everyone knows of all the other normal things that apply to all cars.

Those are the major things I can think of right now. Please do these things if you have no record of them being done. Keep another car on the road. Everything is easy except the shift seal and timing drive bearings, but given the expense of these two things failing, they are well worth doing.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I was just thinking about repacking the front wheel bearings, so great to have the procedure clarified.

Dave Bertrand · Mar 24, 2023

Here are a couple of great videos showing how to do it. The first link is to part 1 of 4 videos that include brake pad replacement.

Both of them are shown on a Mondial QV, but should also apply to a 328 AFAIK.

Rifledriver · Mar 24, 2023

Dave Bertrand said: ↑

Here are a couple of great videos showing how to do it. The first link is to part 1 of 4 videos that include brake pad replacement.

Both of them are shown on a Mondial QV, but should also apply to a 328 AFAIK.

Click to expand...

Not really anything great about them. He didn't know how to take it apart and either service it or replace the bearing. Near as I can tell he wiped it off and put a finger full of grease in an old dirty bearing. He had no idea how to remove the bearing and you cannot service it without removal.

I certainly hope people here are doing a better job because that was basically a waste of time.

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