348 Clutch Release Bearing - Stoogie Style

Here is how two Stooges replaced a 348 throw-out bearing, aka clutch release bearing on my 1993 348 TS Serie Speciale (boy I like the way that sounds ).

Step 1 - Remove the muffler heat shrouds. A really easy task. Use a flex fitting on your socket wrench to get the 2 nuts against the bumper grill.
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Next, remove the airbox to free up some space and allow better access to the O2 sensor plugs. 4 nuts and 4 hose fittings. Remove the air intake hoses after the MAFs since it involves only a pair of hose clamps per side.
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Then tackle the removal of the exhaust system either before or after the cats. You make the choice depending on your exhaust system. On the gothspeed system, I thought it was much easier to remove the cats because 1) the entire system weighs almost nothing and 2) I did not really want to mess around with the slip joints goth uses between the cats and the muffler. No doubt, goth would have had me remove the slip joints, however. Don't forget to remove the O2 sensor plugs under the airbox and the thermocouples from the cats. And it doesn't hurt to have your own Stooge manning a wrench.
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Put the rear end up on jack stands placed under the subframe. Locate them beneath the beefier sections of the frame, like where there are vertical members joining it.
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Start removing the pumpkin by first loosening the pipe clamp on the driver's side. Swing it out of the way. There is a spacer there you also don't want to lose.
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Remove the drainage screen on the underside of the pumpkin housing or you might be embarassed later when you try to pry the thing off. This is a Stooge lesson learned in the field.
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Now you can unbolt all the holding bolts around the pumpkin and then it drops right off, right? Nah, you then have to leverage it off by using the handle of your large socket wrench, left side, right side and back. Then it sort of slides right off the shaft on to your garage floor if you aren't watching. It's a bit heavy since it holds your flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. Notice the 1 bolt you do not touch in the 1 o'clock position - it only holds your starter, not the pumpkin so leave it alone!
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Now take a break and admire your work that has exposed the bad part. You can see the warping in the bearing inner housing if you look hard, plus there's all that dripping clutch, er, brake fluid. Now if you look hard too, you will see dripping trans fluid off the shaft. We did not see this in the light, but it should have tipped us off about seals. More on this later.

Now you are going to remove the bearing retainer at the top of the assembly. It's those 2 smaller bolts on that bracket in the 2nd picture.
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Unbolt the bearing retainer from the housing. If you are replacing the stock bearing, just do so. If you are using the Hill replacement, now we have to remove and replace the flange as well. Since there are some rubber pieces in there, I'd do this in any case. Note: Hill sends a seal and 2 rubber O-rings with their flange, however, there is a larger O-ring that does not come with it. Don't even think of not replacing this one if you remove the flange. And don't give Daniel at Ricambi any sheit if he suggests it. Just do it.
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Now you can unbolt the flange and slide it off the shaft as well. Note the larger rubber O-ring in the 2nd picture that you really should replace. Make sure you order it if you are using the Hill parts.
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Now we take a break to check out the stock parts and admire the Hill Engineering stuff. First is an exploded view of the clutch release bearing assembly courtesy of Mr. Anal Stooge, Ernie.
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Assembling the Hill bearing flange. Here's an interesting step you don't get instructions for, but we'll tell you about. The Hill flange comes with 2 threaded studs that leave you wondering what the heck to do with them. If you are an intuitive type you can probably figure it out; if you're a Stooge you call Daniel. The taps fill machining holes used in the manufacturing process. In fact, your stock unit has the same filled holes, rather sloppily filled by aluminum bar stock, it appears. You merely coat the threads with Lock Tite then thread the studs down as far as they go - don't worry, they will run down to a stop. Cut them off and file flush with the housing. Don't sweat it, you just want to fill the holes left over from machining.
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Now, if you are a professional mechanic, skip this item. Actually, you need to do this, but probably using a better method. The Hill flange needs a seal installed at the rear (along with the 2 O-rings you will place during installation). Then there is the large O-ring in the housing that you will want to replace as well. (Go ahead and skip this, I dare ya...) The seal needs to be, um coaxed, into place. Look for something that will do. Hmm, that roll of black tape seems to be the right size, eh Ernie? Compare it with the old part for depth.
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Then everything goes back on the car the way your removed it - well, in reverse, anyway. Did I mention that you will want to replace that large rubber O-ring in the housing before you re-attach the bearing flange? Don't forget the 2 small O-rings at the back of the Hill flange (upper portion). Honestly, you can't miss this. Flange on first, then bearing, then bearing retainer.

Now would also be a good time to replace your triple seals and the single O-ring on the shaft. I will post this separately because we have yet to do this. Don't ask...
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Thanks, man. This is a good time to summarize the rubber parts I've mentioned, I guess.

4" O-ring = 143178
Triple seals = 137249 (order 3)
Shaft O-ring = 104984

 

Now reassembly is basically the reverse of disassembly. Except for reinstalling the pumpkin. This is a Class-1 b1tch. First, it is heavy for someone lying under the car. Second, it has two points of fitting because there are 2 splines you are mating. Third, you need to get the first spline (coarser) lined up and then turn the clutch plate (jimmy it really) to line up the second (finer) spline. You will wrestle with it for some time and use many colorful words, I am sure and then, poof, it just slips on like snot on a brass door handle. I personally think it has a curse reservoir that needs filling before sliding on the shaft. Once full, it just goes on like it was always meant to.

Okay, summarizing reassembly from here:

Bolt on the pumpkin.
Reattach the driver's side line clamp.
Reinstall the drainage screen beneath the pumpkin.
Reattach the exhaust system.
Plug in the O2 sensors beneath the airbox location.
Reinstall the thermocouples in the cats if you removed them.
Reinstall the airbox and don't forget the 4 hose clamps - 2 for inlet air in front of the MAFs and 2 for our idiotic EGR system on the underside of the airbox.
Reinstall the muffler heat shields.

Now bleed the clutch and don't forget to refill the brake fluid reservoir. We used a 3-pulse method that seemed to be very effective (pump 3 times then hold, bleed air, release pedal and repeat).

Many thanks to Ricambi and Daniel personally for helping me through this. Look, if Daniel ever suggests another part to replace while you are doing a project, just drop the coin and do it. You are not going to be in the clutch assembly again as long as you own the car, hopefully. Also, Ernie is my main man. Thanks dude. Also thanks to Plugzit and Flat PAP for stopping by to offer moral support. Next time PAP brings the beer.

 

Thanks dude, but you're still bringing the beer next time.

 

Somehow all the shots of me simply disappeared off my camera. Hmm, wait a sec...

Ernie fondling goth's exhaust.
The real wrench of the day, or was I puking?
Flat PAP with no beer.
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Interesting comment about the flange. I never questioned whether or not it was absolutely necessary. It's installed now and it is a seriously stout piece of metal. I guess that is a fair corollary to this article. You might need the flange or not. It's enough of a savings to determine this.