348 Clutch Release Bearing - Stoogie Style

Thanks Vince and Ernie, I am just going through this process with my Valeo clutch and it is great of you guys to take the time to show how all this is done. It is guys like you who take the black art away from this process so that you can evaluate whether you are being ripped off in the labour cost area.Thanks.

 

That's what the 348 Brotherhood is all about, looking out for one another.

If you would, since you have a Valeo clutch I highly suggest you do the same. Take pleanty of pictures ad post a how-to thread. That way the next Modial T guy, with a Valeo semi-auto clutch, can see what you've done, and yours may,or may not, be a bit different than for our 348's. Catch my drift?

 

Bravo!! Have a go yourself mate! Not hard.

Great idea.

 

Lovely.

 

Excellent work, Vince and Ernie - that flange is slightly over $600 ($636 be exact, which is more than the TO Bearing itself which is $542), so good to know that it is not necessary on the SS models.

 

Good advice - and I would bet my life that Daniel would ship you both parts and then allow you to return the un-needed at no re-stock fee.

 

That's a pretty hefty wager!

 

I'm curious why there is the "need" for a different slave cylinder when they measure the same in the areas that matter?

 

They don't measure the same.

The pre-load springs are significantly offset between the early and the late. In the absense of service records or an open pumpkin, it is impossible to verify which flange might be inside ANY 348, Mondial t, or pre 98 F355.

Both ND and Vince's car had previously been updated to the newer Ferrari flange, presumably by prior owners at franchised dealerships. MANY of the 348's and early 355s were updated at dealerships when the 355 bearing set was sold as a complete kit with the flange, and known to work in both models.

Vince is sending his used flange back to me for a refund.


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Fair enough. Thanks for the info.

 

Lol, sorry Daniel, I didn't mean to put you in a tough spot, but from everything I have read you have done it in the past for other parts....not to mention you even lend out the tools for some of the jobs...maybe this part is different is non-returnable

 

Thanks for this! I really didn't want to stop working on the car tonight just to make the call tomorrow in order to figure out what those threaded rods were. However, I hadn't planned on changing the 4" o-ring you mention in the next post. Hmmm. It really is quite supple and raised nicely above the machined surface. I'm sure it will be fine. I may take you up on your dare and leave it. I bought the kit from Ricambi. Wouldn't that thing be in there if I needed it? Oh hell, I'll order the o-ring. Thanks for the great write-up. Dave

 

Fantastic ‘how-to’ guys thanks - I’m just attempting this myself. Just a question on the Hill engineering flange and the threshed studs used as plugs: I’ve seen a video on YouTube where this is done but the guy specifically says ‘don’t’ screw the studs all the way into the hole and that the stud should not protrude into the threaded channel beyond the edge of the casing ie not even penetrate the hole. He says this would prevent proper operation of the clutch. As far as I can make out these two holes to be plugged are unused and no clutch fluid enters them. Should I screw the studs as far into the hole as possible or not?

 

That is how we did it.
YOU do it however you feel comfortable.
Or better yet give Hill Engineering a call to see what they recommend.