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348 Door Connector - AMP

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by reado10, Jun 15, 2011.

  1. GavC

    GavC Formula Junior

    May 9, 2004
    492
    Lincolnshire, Englan
    Full Name:
    Gavin Culshaw
    Try Farnell.com for AMP connectors or equivalent. We use these on a multitude of engines that I sell for different manufacturers. FPT (Fiat Powertrains Technologies) being one which is the Diesel division of Fiat and Ferrari. Just be careful with the pins when crimping.
    Good Luck
     
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  3. fana355france

    fana355france Formula Junior
    BANNED

    Aug 10, 2005
    287
    France
    Full Name:
    nicolas
    Hello !
    very nice tech documents.
    Do you know where I can buy this connector ? I only need the big locking nut on the fender connector.
    thanks
     
  4. dahveedem

    dahveedem Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2012
    1,552
    Maryland
    Full Name:
    David
    revisiting this post... I have the connectors but what about the crimper for the job?
    any recommendations?
     
  5. 4redude

    4redude Formula Junior

    Jan 13, 2005
    677
    Someplace new
    Full Name:
    Brian Keegan
    Ferrari has always had part numbers for these electrical connectors but you had to know to look in the Electrical Components catalog.
    They are all still currently available. Male door connector is $16.26, female connector is $14.04. Male terminal is $1.00 and female terminal is $5.98.
    Rutlands has them in stock.
     
  6. dahveedem

    dahveedem Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2012
    1,552
    Maryland
    Full Name:
    David
    Thanks... but i need to know the tool. Digi key has one te amp for $712... ouch

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
     
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  8. ///Mike

    ///Mike F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2003
    5,990
    Bugtussle
    I'll try to remember to look at the one I used. After seeing how much the proper tool costs I set about to find another option. Think I got mine on Amazon, and I was pleased with the results after I taught myself how to use it.

    I've just reattached broken wires at this point but I believe a proper fix would be to extend each of the wires several inches using silicone jacket wiring (for flexibility) before attaching the terminals. I can't help but think that if all of the wire that flexes when the door moves is silicone, and if the area immediately aft of the terminals is strengthened with heat shrink, the wiring flex will be spread over a large enough area to not pose a problem again in my lifetime.

    BTW, make your own pin-out chart! The one posted in the 348 section did not match my car. I can post mine in that thread though, if you think it will help.
     
  9. dahveedem

    dahveedem Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2012
    1,552
    Maryland
    Full Name:
    David
    if you can recall that tool.. that would be great....
     
  10. ///Mike

    ///Mike F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2003
    5,990
    Bugtussle
    I accidentally remembered to look at it because I was standing in the shop office last night and saw it sitting on a file cabinet. Otherwise I would have completely forgotten about it, such is my memory.

    I used a Hozan p-706. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-P-706-Open-Barrel-Crimper/dp/B002TKG11G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1529891201&sr=8-1&keywords=hozan+p-706

    I did a couple of test pins indoors in good light to get a good feel for the tool and what size crimps are needed. It doesn't look like much but it's capable of quite decent crimps if you use the correct size and keep the terminal in the exact right position to ensure that the pointy part of the die winds up centered on the terminal during the final part of the process. I was happy with the results and everything worked after the repair. :)

    HTH.
     
  11. dahveedem

    dahveedem Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2012
    1,552
    Maryland
    Full Name:
    David
    Thanks so much! that looks like it will work just fine.
    I have the connectors and the wiring is a mess in there... another wire came loose yesterday when I was in there poking around trying to find a parasitic draw (didn't find one).

    Now to source the various colors of wiring. I think I'm going to put all new wiring into the connector and then splice in the door. Should be a fun project. ;)
     
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  13. ///Mike

    ///Mike F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2003
    5,990
    Bugtussle
    Sounds like a plan. That's what I want to do with mine, but too many projects & not enough time.

    I'd suggest using silicone jacket wire. If you haven't played with any you won't believe how flexible it is. It's expensive, but it's nice to work with and the added flexibility should take a whole bunch of stress off of the area immediately aft of the terminal. Seriously, the stuff is like wet spaghetti. :)

    Downside is I doubt you'd be able to find it in the proper colors so you'd have to adapt the color scheme. If you're committed to using the OE colors try these guys:

    https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/category/10
    http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/section.php/198/1/single-core-pvc-thin-wall-cable
     
  14. Huskymaniac

    Huskymaniac Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Jul 9, 2020
    97
    Finger Lakes, NY
    Full Name:
    Tony
    Mike,

    Can you provide the color coding of the pinout? Would be much appreciated. I am going to try and just re-do all the wires. I am assuming that I will just keep having this issue if I don't.
     

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