348 engine out major

I then partially slid the cover onto the block, for two reasons.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Nope.

Put I them in cold.

 

The first reason I don't put the cover all the way on is because, I have to feed the oil pump chain over the tensioner.

I lift the chain up and hold it with my fingers, while I slide the cover on a little more, getting the tensioner pad to slide under the chain.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

The second reason I initially only put the cover on part ay is because, I do not want to risk causing the crank seal to go on wrong. I do not want the lip on the back of the seal to get folded over.

So what I did was GENTLY help the seal over the crank using a plastic wedge. As I went around the lip of the crank seal I SLOWLY and GENTLY pushed the cover on. I was very careful, and took my sweet time king this, making sure NOT to force it.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

And here is the crank seal installed, safe and sound.

Notice the arrow, on the side of the seal, is pointing clockwise, the rotation of the engine.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Did you release the tensioner(s)?

 

With the cover safely installed I put all the nuts on the cover bolts, and tightened it down.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Coming right up.

 

To do this I inserted a screwdriver into the slot on the backend of the release/retaining shaft. Then I twisted it slowly, counterclockwise, until the keyway on the tension block fit over the locking portion of the shaft, releasing the spring, and placing tension on the oil pump chain.

VIOLA!

I did this bit last, as I wanted the cover to be secured to the block first.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Gonna take a break now. I'll be back later to post up some more stuff.

 

A couple of questions:

1. In the above photo how many hours into this project at that point?

2. Do you write down the steps to take the engine out, so you can do them in reverse when you go to put the engine back in?

3. Like the tires. Where did you buy them, and what size are they?

4. Keep us informed of the condtion of the various rubber parts you can see with the engine out. Do you plan on replacing any?

Now I know why my mechanic told me to stick with my Mondial, and not go with a 348. But one day I will throw that idea to the wind and buy one, I love the looks of them.

ceb39

 

I haven't been keeping track.

Nope.

I assume you mean the wheels. Bought them from a fellow fchatter. 18" F355 wheels.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

Outstanding work my friend. Surprised and relieved to the relative simplicity of the design. Have not see you needing any factory or specialized tools up to this point which is awesome.

I am really interested whether there is an aluminum alternative to the plastic water pump impeller.

 

As far as tool go, yeah, nothing really special. I think the most expensive tool I used was the cherry picker. But, that was a special circumstance because I pulled the engine off the subframe. Other than that nothing really fancy.

 

Today think I'll post up how I installed the new water pump, new cam belt bearings, and the drive pulley.

But first here are some pics for a side by side comparison of the old bearings (pictured on the left) vs Hill Engineering bearings (pictured on the right) that will be getting installed.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I found it's a good idea to install the cam belt tensioner bearing first. The reason is I find it easier to compress the spring. I can use my weight to push the bearing into the housing.

I install the tensioner housing on the the block loosely. I don't tighten the nuts all the way, and leave a little gap.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

That is a non-issue. The more important issue is what to do about the unavailable timing cover bearing. I would be keeping a very very close eye on that if a current OEM bearing is being used. I would have considered a rebuild of the old bearing or custom sourcing/modification by someone like spherics, (Gardena,Ca.). As an example once Reiner ,the inventor of taking the engine out without a lift, had a hard time sourcing one of the tranny cover bearings and spherics made a less expensive solution that is now the "reiner bearing."

 

If you look you can see a slot just behind the back of the tensioner. That slot is for the bearing stop-dowel on the back of the tensioner to fit into. If you look at the 2nd photo in the side by side comparison you can see the stop on the back of the tensioner bearings.

This is why I don't tighten down the nuts on the bracket. It leaves me a little bit of play room to get the dowel in the stop groove.

After I have the bearing in the housing, with the stop-dowel successfully in the groove, I then tighten down the 3 nuts securing the housing to the block.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

With the bracket secured to the block, I can now put my weight into it pressing the tensioner down. While I hold it compressed I tighten the retaining bolt with my other hand, locking it in place.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

With the tensioner bearing secured in a compressed state I will now install the water pump.

First up the connecting hose, and clamps, get fitted to the cross over pipe. If you try and do this after the water pump is in place it's a pain.

I'm reusing the old hose. I know, I know, I should buy a new one. But it still felt fine, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

A new o-ring gets fitted to the back of the pump.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Here you see two different size bolts, one shorter than the other. Both of which get used to hold the pump to the block. But which one goes where?
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I put the longer bolts in these two holes that are empty, on the bottom of the pump.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

And the two shorter bolts you can see I already threaded in here.

So be sure to make sure you have the correct bolt lengths in the correct holes.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Now to double check this I tighten them down all the way by hand, using my fingers. If one of them doesn't thread all the way in, and I can get it to thread all the way in with the force of my fingers, then I must have the wrong bolt in the wrong hole. If they thread all the way in with my fingers, then I'm good to go and finish tightening them down the an allen wrench.
Image Unavailable, Please Login