348 Fuse Box Repair

I decided to open up my slightly damaged (replaced with another) footwell fuse box to try to fix it (the melted relay socket, red circle). I got the idea how to detach the inner circuit board from the front "wafer" after reading the Fatbillybob's good article about fixing a 550 fuse box.

First, remove the single screw and drill/grind the two melted plastic rods. then you can open up the box.
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Next, grind off the four melted plastic rods holding the circuit board.
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Now you have to make a special tool, blade 6 mm wide, 0.8 mm thick. Then, start pushing the socket pins quite firmly but in very small increments, progressing from the outer edge.
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And the board is off.
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Remarkable. I gave up trying to remove just a single plug from the rear of the board for fear I would break something.

I had no idea there was a printed circuit board there. I was expecting to see (more robust) hard wiring.

Thanks, Miroljub!

Cheers
Ian.

 

You mean like this (Fatbillybob's masterpiece):
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Hi, I've just had a problem like your. Lckly the Fuse seat is still working

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Thanks to this guide I've learned that there is the possibility to open and refurbish the box. Thanks a lot

 

Wow nice job how does it fit back together with the added wires on the broad and what are you using to replace the tabs you cut to undo the broads


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Installing PWM on both fan elevates this, especially in hot climates. Miroljub helped me on this, credit goes to him.

You can hear the difference here. Spools up over 3 seconds instead of instant on and eliminates the amp spike and resulting heat at the board circuit.
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/implementing-cooling-fan-pwm-controller.608170/


Then I added a shroud for good measure, yes it helps car pulls down heat noticeably faster.
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachments/20211114_074805_hdr-jpg.3235666/

 

The fuse box with added wires is not for the 348 but for Ferrari 550. I just showed it as a general example of what can be done. As for the melted tops of the plastic studs that need to be cut, you don't really need to do anything about the two between the plastic halves of the box as there is also a screw holding them together and the internal PC board is held very strongly in position by the relay and fuse pins anyway. However, if one wants to reinstate the holding by the plastic studs, I'm sure something can be improvised like small screws etc.

 

It seems valid only for F355 but not for 348 that doesn't have two output wires to the fan, am i right?

 

Ok thanks

That must have taking a few “Saturdays” to complete lol was it hard to follow the broads circuit or did you need to draw out the wiring first


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It's on a 348, it's valid for both, 355 amp draw is even worse than 348.

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Look through the post you will see the 2 wires for the 348 fans which that implementation is.

 

ok, gotcha. thx