Hi guys, For a while I've suspected my HVAC issues have originated at the 26 way AMP connector at the rear of the unit. Could not release the contact locking tangs for the life of me, then the epiphany moment, there is a sliding locking pin through the whole connector. The contacts can then be released using the visible locking tang on each contact. I found the contacts can then be improved by pushing the mating contacts together, I found some had lost some of their contact pressure (springing force). This is quite a delicate job pushing these contact points back in (using a needle). Alternatively new contacts are available in various specs. I had found gold plated intermediate contact pressure versions, as opposed to the original tin plated standard contact pressure versions. see RS part 668-9731 (TE part 167301-4). I'm trying the first option before re-pinning the whole thing - not tested yet. Re-pinning would be a very delicate job and the crimp tool is very expensive so soldering the new gold pins might be the next most viable option. These things are very small and fiddly. I have another job replacing a botched repair between PCB connectors so awaiting parts for this. (parts Samtec SL-132-G-11 and BBS-106-G-A). So will test this out once this is all done. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I, too, had a HVAC connector that was causing problems, error codes, etc. Tried cleaning many times but always something within a few days/weeks later. After much reading on here I tried a fix(from another poster) that has worked very well... over a year now! The poster discovered that the wire loom was a bit short, always pulling on the connector, creating one or all to disconnect on a road bump, maybe just even for a few seconds. That would be enough to set a code(or kill the Hvac) demanding a reboot(battery disconnect/reconnect to erase and start again. What he did was pull on the harness loom creating a little slack, then ty-rap the harness in such a way that the connector will always have some free play. In my case, I also drilled a small hole on the receiver side of the HVAC connecter and pushed a small ty-rap through hole and around cable to maintain the connection. I know, there is a locking bracket there, but mine had been played with so many times, (myself & others) that was always 'somewhat' loose. So, 2 ty-raps to hold harness and create some slack/ no codes/ never to be played with after! You've gone the extra mile....bravo!
Quite frustrating isn't it, I've had various states of working, not working, going haywire. Then finally lost all power so set about a proper fix. I think the contacts go weak over time with vibration etc., so yes if the connector can be tie wrapped in place to isolate the vibration and it works that's great. Identifying the part numbers for the crimp contacts was the hardest part. The connector is from the TE AMPMODU IV range of automotive connectors and parts are still available.
Not only too short, but positioning strain as well. Which is why Ferrari updated the controller. 348 HVAC ECU
