348 spider instrument cluster blinks with right turn signal

P.S. If there is a short in one of the light assemblies, you could try progressively disconnecting them to see if the problem disappears.

 

Just unplugging the front side markers will probably tell you nothing so you can skip this for the time being. What I suggested earlier was that you look at the wiring going to the side markers which, I believe, are connected to the front Fog/Marker/Flasher lamp assemblies on US models. You can also leave this check for later and let's concentrate on the following:

1. For these tests, keep the Turn Signals off (column stalk in "neutral") at all times.

2. Put back all fuses, relays etc. that you have maybe taken out.

3. Make sure you have a good fuse at position #10 (third from top left)

4. Keep everything "off" (radio, heater blower fan etc.)

5. Turn the Lights stalk switch "on" one step (if required for the lights to work, either switch the ignition "on" or start the engine).

6. The fuse #10 may blow due to overload as the light switch may, in addition to all Marker Lights, also switch the Turn Signal lights on the RHS. If this happens, let us know (do not try with a higher amp fuse). Otherwise, proceed with the next step.

7. If the fuse #10 is still "alive", check what exactly lights are "on" (left, right, front, back) and let us know by reference to the following drawings.
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It would also be good if you could take pictures of the front and back of the car showing the lights when "on".
NOTE: The two orange bulbs at the top of each of the the front Fog//Marker/Flasher lamp assemblies have dual filaments - 5W for Marker and 21W for Flasher. It is important that you establish whether they are lit bright or not so bright. You may be able to establish this by comparing the brightness of the two orange bulbs between left and right lamps (the right ones may be brighter). Let us know of any difference in intensity. You can also compare the brightness, under this test, of the outer orange bulb at each front lamp with its brightness under the following test 9.

8. Switch the Lights column switch "off" (if the fuse #10 has blown, replace it and do not switch the Lights column switch "on" again).

9. Switch the Parking Lights "on" (the rectangular switch on the console with a "P" symbol). It is not necessary to turn the ignition switch to "on" for this test. Let us know which exactly lights are "on" by reference to the above drawings. Parking Lights switch (#20):
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It is not easy to solve such issue remotely but doable thanks to the Ian's fantastic diagrams. Take time testing and try to give us as precise info as possible.

 

If you had not see my post above at the time of writing this post, I suggest you first do the two tests I described. I don't think you have any problem in the instrument cluster. The likely culprit is the front Fog/Marker/Flasher lamp assembly but let's first see what you observe under the tests I suggested.

 

Do you mean the rectangular ones or the ones in the front clusters?

How hard is it to disconnect the front lamp cluster plugs on the 348? I assumed that if there was a short in one of these, removing the plugs would remove the short.

 

Ian, looks familiar?
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So, Eric, here we go:

Your front RH two orange bulbs are obviously brighter than the LH ones. Also, the rear RH Flasher light is "on" together with the Side/Marker Lights.

You Parking Lights are in order (I earlier said that the front outer orange lights should be "on" with the "P" but this was wrong; your inner ones coming on with this switch is how it should be). The rectangular Side Markers are not meant to come "on" in this case. I see they are "on" with your Side/Marker Lights switched "on" which is how they should work.

With regard to your Side/Marker Lights column stalk switch (at one turn) also switching the Flasher bulbs at the RHS, this is most likely caused by a problem in your front RH Fog/Marker/Flasher lamp assembly.

Your next step is to take out the RH Fog/Marker/Flasher lamp assembly, remove its back cover, and see what's going on there. First, check whether both orange bulbs are dual filament type, 5/21 W (having two tin contacts at the bottom) and that their sockets are correct (each socket should have two pins at the bottom) and in good condition, the two pins at the bottom are not bent and touching each other etc.

If you cannot identify any obvious issue inside the lamp, take detailed pictures of the wiring inside and of the orange bulb sockets and post them here.

 

Ian, this case appears to be "here we go again". Picture from the earlier "epic" case you mentioned in your post #50 above:

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Having trouble finding it. I can't recall the outcome. Was there a dodgy wiring modification? Hopefully there is a simpler solution in this case.

 

The wiring seems to be ok. It matches the wiring diagrams. The light blue wires are the turn signal wires. The yellow and yellow/red wires are the marker lights. One of the yellow/red wires goes off to the rectangular side marker


There seems to be a bayonette mount on the unused lampholder, but I'm not sure if the others are the same. If there's a rubber o-ring around each lampholder, I guess they could have aged and are now resisting turning. I defer to someone with experience on these things.

Can you disconnect the backplugs with the red and yellow clips on them? If the all the lights still flash when they shouldn't, then the short is elsewhere.

 

It is normal not to have a bulb there because that light segment is not used on US models.

As Ian mentioned, the rubber rings on the grey sockets are sticking to the body but you should be able to turn them (anticlockwise) with some persuasion until the bayonet releases. Perhaps putting a bit of silicone on the rubber rings will help. Better not to spray silicone directly but spray it into a cup or something then apply the fluid on the rubber and let it soak for a while (do not use WD40 or similar lubricants that "eat" rubber).

On the RH lamp, you have a short between the blue and yellow wires in one of the grey sockets, probably in the outer one. It could also be in the connector carrying the blue and yellow wires but unlikely. The pinch you see on the yellow wire is probably from the zip tie (that has now fallen off). The tie is there to prevent the base with contacts inside the socket from falling out when the bulb is removed. The zip tie is placed at the point on the wires where it should allow the wires to move somewhat in when the bulb is removed but not too much so as to allow the circular base with the two contacts to come out completely. This picture shows the position of the zip tie when the bulb is out; it should be ~5mm off the back of the socket when the bulb is inserted:
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Your LH lamp - it appears that the original glass was broken and replaced. If the glass sits firm and you don't see any traces of water or dust having entered the lamp, you do not need to do anything about it.

 

Doesn't make much sense to me. Unfortunately, I'm not sure of the wiring for the front fog light. I had a blurry diagram to work with and couldn't see which pins the fog light wiring was attached to at the frunk fusebox. I drew in some lines, but I think they are wrong.

When you said you disconnected it, did you pull the bulb or disconnect the pink wire?