Man, I tried for an hour tonight to make that work. The natural bends of the hose don't look like it went under there. I REALLY wish I would have known this BEFORE I installed the heat exchanger and every other damn component in the valley. Trying to get that down there now is a B*****. Any more specifics on how it actually goes down around the heat exchanger? Over/under the gear oil lines etc.? Pics would be great. After trying to go under the damn thing I ran it like this for the heck of it. Definitely seems more natural to the shape of the hose and not rubbing again a bunch of sharpe objects but a little close to the throttle linkage. Then pulled it out over the steering pump. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Getting ready to install new CV boots which should be arriving from Ricambi tomorrow. I decided to not waste any energy on the outer boots which look like they are in perfect condition. After getting the inners off I am glad I did this. One had a 1/4" split in it and the other was horribly deformed. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
One of the easiest ways to remove an axle boot with out the pain in the butt of working in tight spaces.
I searched around some and found instructions posted doing it this way. With my limited tool set this looked like the easiest way to deal with it. Out of the chassis and plenty of room to work on it. Only 10min to disassemble each side. I'm sure it could be done in the car but why fight it.
Got the CV kits in from Ricambi. Comes with big tubes of grease and also some little Hylomar tube which I believe is sealer. I've never used sealer on CV boots before, never had them leak. Are they giving you this to seal the boots with? The only side to seal that would make sense is the small side.
Your talking about that little tube of blue liquid? Yes thats sealant for the open small end of the boot. The large end is of course fixed to the casing already. The kits i have used also include two clamps for each end of the boots, one large and one small.
That's what I figured. Of course I have the OTHER clamp tool for the OTHER type of clamps. I have to see about getting the right one for these clamps. All the boots are off (yes outters too, I realized I am too anal to not change them even if they look new) and ready for the new ones to go on after I find the clamp tool.
I guess my question is also the most obvious one. Will the upgraded headers and valve guides be a permanent fix for the issues some of these engines have? All too often I hear of 20k mile or less 355 engines having to be torn apart and rebuilt or have headers replaced eternally etc which makes them sound like a bit of a nightmare and a dream at the same time (I love the 355). If what you are doing is what many believe to be a permanent solution to these possible issues and others forsee this engine going for another 80k-100k+ I might start seriously looking into 355 as a stablemate to my 308 rather than a boxer.
I had trouble finding a clamp tool for these, so I made my own. See Post 187 on the thread I've been using for my service. HTH. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192646&highlight=348+engine&page=4
Nice thread and REALLY nice engine. Your clamps are different than mine. Pictured is the type of clamp I have and the tool needed. Everybody I called knew what it was but only one person had it at their warehouse. I'm like WTF? Am I the only one in Portland doing CV boots? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I don't see why it wouldn't be a 'permanent' solution if you can call it that. I mean these cars are always going to need some sort of maintenance unlike my Accord with 280k miles on it with the original exhaust, valves and valve guides in it. But the maintenance on the Ferrari is more fun.
Those look just like the clamps they sell at harbor freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66573
I have no problem doing maintenance that is regular required maintenance really. The 308 needs very little other than belt changes, valve adjusts and regular fluid changes. Rebuilds at every 100k or so miles I am fine with. What has always put me off with the 355 (and 360s are sort of having this issue as well) are the parts one would not expect to go wrong at such a short interval. Factory headers? Valve guides? what, so soon already?! cats!? If taking care of a 355 simply means replacing these possibly faulty factory items with a superior aftermarket alternative then I am more than ok with that. I see this as little investment to owning the greatest V8 Ferrari ever. What I would not want to have happen is to see all these items replaced but have the issue creep up again in 30k miles or less.
Yep, I've seen these same ones all over the internet today, all labeled something else by each site but they all look exactly the same. The ones I just picked up at Napa, same exact ones. Actually in that link you posted they have the wrong picture with the wrong price and description. The description says they are the clamp cutting pliers which they are not. And they should be $24.99.
Ya, it would be one thing if all 355's just had a bad power steering pump. Swap it out with an aftermarket and off you go. But to have main components which require a total engine rebuild to correct after 25k miles is another. I have a good feeling that what Gary has done to this engine will make it last a long time. Now everything else can fall apart around it as long as it stays together. To me it's kind of like the difference between ankle surgery or open heart surgery.
Don't you love it when the secretary starts writing copy for a tool catalog. Oh, there's pointy edges at the top, they must be for cutting! How did you determine pricing btw? HarborFreight traditionally sells at lower prices, with a corresponding lower tool effectiveness.
Glad you decided to do it. Next time remove the axle bolt that goes through the knuckle... a lot easier than what that manual says. Also use a small straw like the red tube from a can of WD40 in the cvboot prior to clamping it down... it will let the heat escape and add life to the boot. Dont forget blue locktight on the bolts that connect to the transmission, when you put the axle back. Make sure you keep the bearings lined up.. it a puzzle if you loose track of the bearings.. also make sure you use nail polish to remove all fingerprints prior to putting the bearings back so you dont get a wear spot where your finger oil is. Great job.... use vaseline on the fuel line gaskets so you dont score them going back in. They are very delicate. Most of those tips are Challenge racing tips, your choice for a street car.
By the way the outer boots are not made to be replaced... when those go get new axle Use a towel or something to brace the clamp and crimp away dont worry about the sharp edges on the tool.
