Has anyone replaced their OEM radiator fan with Spal's 2360 cfm fan instead of Spal's direct replacement 2070 cfm fan? If so, what modifications, if any, were required? Our weather is hot all year round and our traffic is getting quite bad. If this modification is doable, it might be a way to reasonably lower the car's operating temperature in traffic. Any suggestions welcomed.
I have replaced both of my fans on my F355 Spider with exact replacements. I would be careful changing fans, the more powerful fan will also need additional power to run it. You might overtax your fuse board and blow fuses or relays. I would recommend changing your fan switch to a Low Temp Switch. This will turn your fans on sooner and maybe help you with your problem. F355's are not know to overheat when everything is working, the current system works very well until your fans need to be replaced, then they usually draw additional current and blow fuses. Michael
+1 For better cooling, you can add some GothShrouds. You can flush your radiators. You can fill them with water + Redline's WaterWetter. You can add the 355 Challenge thermostat plug. It's also a good idea to examine each radiator for external blockage. I've had a full newspaper covering one of mine once from road debris!
+2. Just ensure everything is working properly, and you will be fine. If it truly concerns you, it would be worthwhile preventive maintenance to simply replace both fans and the left side thermoswitch, as they are definitely known "wear points" that need periodic replacement. I would NOT upgrade the fans...the current draw/amperage issues would require extensive "work arounds" to ensure a safe set up.
I think the only difference are the fan blades. Ours are curved and the higher output one the blades are straight. I think both fans draw the same current.
I'm sorry but that is incorrect. The oem Spal fan has a continuous amperage draw rating of 18.4 amps. The higher output fan mentioned has a rating of 21.5 amps. Since the fans cycle on and off, I see little benefit to a higher cfm fan, unless the oem ones are running constantly in city traffic. Then the higher cfm fan may offer some benefit. BUT the bigger issue is the oem fans as they wear, end up with higher starting current, causing the 30 amp fuses to blow. I would be concerned with not only what the starting current is of the higher output fan when new (can't find the spec online)...but also how soon (as it wears) that it begins exceeding the 30 amp limit of the circuit....which often happens with the oem fan after several years use.
