360 experts I have a weird hazard (electrical) issue help please

Strange. There is something I'm missing here. You're getting all the right voltage readings on the socket. The jumper should put power directly on the lights. It's really odd that both sides are not responding to these jumpers. If one side wasn't lighting up with the jumper, I would suspect a broken wire, but two wires breaking at the same time.... almost impossible. I think even your indy would have a problem with this. It could get expensive unless he's come across something like this before.

I'm starting to wonder if there are some shorted diodes in the circuit somewhere. e.g. in the instrument panel. Do F360 instrument panel turn indication arrows normally illuminate individually or do they both light up at the same time for left and right turns?

As the immobiliser also has the potential to put on the turn lights, there could be a problem inside the immobiliser (even if the immobiliser is not programmed to illuminate the lights). Is it difficult to get to the immobiliser ECU plugs on a F360? I see the ECU is buried behind the fuses and relays behind the left hand seat. All I can suggest is disconnecting the battery and pulling the plugs on the immobiliser (if they are accessible), then reconnect the battery and retry the jumper wires (although I'm not sure if the siren would be triggered).

Sorry, running out of easy/cheap suggestions ...

 

Before you go further, you may want to recheck the voltage reading between 2 & 4 (to make sure the fuse near the battery didn't blow during your jumper tests).

 

As much as I've tried, I can't find a link between the inertia switch and the Hazard/Turn module. The inertia switch only seems to be attached to the Motronic ECUs (it probably kills the ECUs which, in turn, disable the fuel pump relays)

Probably not relevant, but with the ignition ON, when you push the Hazard button, does the warning triangle appear on the instrument panel digital display (with the Hazard/Turn module removed)?

 

I guess that's one good sign. Does it remain on with the Hazard Switch pushed? I don't know if it will on a functioning car. Unfortunately, I don't have a functional F360 I can experiment on.

The video shows the car running, so the alternator should be providing enough volts to the car generally. By the way, how old is your battery? I have a voltmeter which plugs into my cigarette lighter to help diagnose battery/alternator problems. Something like this:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/264959227913?

At this point, I don't know if the Scuding relay is another symptom of the problem causing your light issue. There could be a car power problem or the Scuding relay could simply be broken. The Scuding relay uses battery power, but from a terminal "7P" behind the left hand seat. The Hazard system uses the main battery connection (with a fuse inbetween). Of course, all the car's circuits are tied together at the battery. I guess it wouldn't hurt to check the tightness of your battery terminals.
Also, you could pull your Scuding relay and check for 12 volts between socket 2 (grey wire/"H") and chassis earth (I guess socket 1 or 4 should be at earth potential). Car not running, of course.

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Note that the image of the relay socket (above) is the underside of the socket, so you will have to flip the image mentally.
Also, with the car running and relay inserted, you could check the power at the pump fuse (also behind the left seat).
I cant' remember if it's the left or right hand fuse...


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Put the voltmeter black probe on any suitable chassis earth.

Note that the clicking of your Scuding relay may be caused by other car issues (including a faulty signal from the F1 TCU)

 

Looking forward to it. I would definitely tell your tech what you've tried already. He may want to read this message thread and may come up with a theory on why the jumper didn't work. I just hope there are no problems in your instrument binnacle or with your immobiliser.

I definitely understand your trepidation.

 

By the way, I started creating a wiring diagram for the F360 hazard/turn system. It probably might make sense to those who are familiar with the WSM wiring hookup diagrams:

https://www.dropbox.com/t/LpGMAoZsJsfvVwCo

Link expires in 6 days

 

This diagram may be a little easier to understand for some folks.... It's in the style of earlier Ferrari wiring diagrams:

https://www.dropbox.com/t/AD06CzWkWFhzowWX

There are a few unknowns, so I'll post updates when more information comes to hand. Link expires in 6 days.

 

An update on the turn indication wiring diagram ... noticed one or two mistakes in the previous diagram... also added lots of wiring and notes.

https://www.dropbox.com/t/4G59wLU6gLSpo4mm

Included wiring for cigarette lighter and other small items.

Link expires in 6 days.

 

+1
Thanks for sharing Ian

 

Sorry guys, I may have uploaded the wrong file... I had a few prototypes.

Here's my latest version:

https://www.dropbox.com/t/X24TzyUIinQQH7VO

Currently working on a headlight and sidelight diagram.

 

I see that fuse and relay numbers vary from car to car. As long as you use the notes and graphics provided, you should be ok. As far as I know, the location of a fuse for a particular function shouldn't physically change.

 

PM sent

 

Hopefully this is the last version of the Hazard/Turn diagram (version 7)...

https://www.dropbox.com/t/WXbLITerO7OAxWvm

I've added some wires related to the luggage compartment lid open warning light

Also, here's my first version of a headlight and sidelight wiring diagram

https://www.dropbox.com/t/L2tXYNDa9tc49M7N

Probably not my last version I keep finding errors in the Ferrari manuals (and a few errors of my own) and I have yet to add the tail light wiring. Thanks to Fred @ hessank for clarifying a few issues.

Enjoy! (if you're into this kind of thing)

 

It will probably be best to wait til' the last moment before printing. I'm sure to find some minor variations. I noticed some non-standard pin numbering on some connectors. On some connectors the numbers are in a U shape pattern (like cylinder numbers). Anyway, you can always f0llow the wire colouring.

https://www.dropbox.com/t/E1xys7l4cHUY8crJ

Anyway, sorry we couldn't come up with an easy solution. Sometimes faults aren't always evident with a multimeter. You have to load up circuits to get them to break. Sometimes test probes with lamps inside them are better for faultfinding. Anyway, that jumper wire should have worked.

 

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