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360 (360) Heat exchanger replacement DIY

Discussion in '360/430' started by fotostars, May 11, 2019.

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  1. fotostars

    fotostars Formula Junior
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    #1 fotostars, May 11, 2019
    This forum has been such a great source of knowledge for me. I’m trying to make my contribution.

    Sorry, not a lot of pictures because I had my hand full/dirty.
    I’m going through my major service and decided to also replace the heat exchanger before it fails.
    I started with a vacuum test on my system. All was good.
    So removed front undertray and open the 2 radiators drain plugs. Got about 2 gallons out of it by gravity.
    Then on the hatch through the cabin. I decided to not remove the seats and just moved them all the way forward.

    Remove accessory belts, disconnect all hoses you see. I also removed the belt covers.
    Take out bolts holding the power steering pump from the water pump body. You have to completely remove the tensioner bolt in order to put the PS pump on the side.

    Next get your hand through with a 8mm socket or whatever small tool you got and release the clamps holding the heat exchanger.

    Then remove the 4 Allen holding the water pump / thermostat to the block.

    Oh, almost forgot. You do have to take the rear bumper out to disconnect the 2 Banjo bolts for the transaxle oil to the heat exchanger. Also remove the lines from clamp holding them alongside the transmission.
    Also need to loosen the 4 bolts holding the expansion tank to allow it to move forward over the oil filler cap (protect with rags)

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    This is all so you can pull on the pieces from the cabin and get some slack to disconnect there.

    Ok, now you can pull the complete water pump assembly. It will have some resistance. It needs to get free of the heat exchanger and also pull on 2 coolant lines.

    Coolant will leak out of it. Bucket under the car and protect your interior will plastic. Once pulled enough to access the 2 lines behind. Disconnect them.
    You should have this in your hands now

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    This will look like this through the hatch

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    Next reach out at the back of the heat exchanger to unscrew the back clamp.
    And pull on it. Resistance again. Once you have it out enough, disconnect the 2 banjo bolt, I just used a gun (22mm).

    That’s it. Clean as much as you can. Inspect wires under the plenum while you’re at it.
    I had one loom with bad wrapping around. Redid it.

    Assembly is reverse order. Replaced washers on the banjo bolts. Push new heat exchanger in the back sleeve. Pay attention to the orientation and routing of oil lines.

    My water pump was showing signs of fatigue. So I took the opportunity to replace it (Thank you Daniel @ Ricambi). Also tested my thermostat and replaced top and bottom o-ring.

    Used a little bit of RTV around the pump and around the thermostat housing. I couldn’t get good vacuum without it.

    Bench tested with vacuum before putting it back in the car.

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    Don’t forget to also replace the back o-ring that mates the assembly to the block. Lubricate with coolant. Torque to spec.

    Reassemble all hoses in the front. Vacuum test again.

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    It’s a fiddly job but if you take your time and regular breaks, you’ll be fine...






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  2. mello

    mello F1 Rookie
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    #2 mello, May 12, 2019
    Great write-up. Thank you for sharing.
     
  3. Ingenere

    Ingenere F1 Veteran
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    #3 Ingenere, May 12, 2019
  4. 24000rpm

    24000rpm F1 Rookie
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    #4 24000rpm, May 12, 2019
    the 2x banjo can be accessed by just removing the long air intake box, so no need to remove the rear bumper
     
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  5. RedNeck

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    #5 RedNeck, May 12, 2019
    True. My exhaust is so that you can reach anything down there rather easily, it's one of the things that convinced me to keep it..in fact I didn't even need to pull the bumper when I replaced my cats...so pulling the heat exchanger with the hoses attached was no problem
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  6. RedNeck

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    #6 RedNeck, May 12, 2019
    Great write up!I did mine last year, but I have to wonder if doing it without pulling the intake is really the easiest way to do it. I did mine when I replaced my intake runner gaskets, and as much crap is down there under the manifold, it seems like it's almost worth it. The worst part were the bolts that hold the front cable clamps on, which was a ridiculous design that could have been just as easily zip tied. I wish I would have taken more pics,but the HE was super simple with all that crap out of the way..
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  7. 02360spider

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    #7 02360spider, May 12, 2019
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  8. mello

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    #8 mello, May 12, 2019
    Wondering if anyone has ever just bypassed the exchanger successfully...
     
  9. 02360spider

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    #9 02360spider, May 12, 2019
    There was a company that made a kit that would mount a radiator on the deiver side fender liner. the company said they no long make the kit and when i asked what was need they told me they could not give me information on there product.

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  10. 02360spider

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    #10 02360spider, May 12, 2019
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  11. Mel Spillman

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    #11 Mel Spillman, May 12, 2019
    Mine was bypassed a few years ago and I have never have any problems. Plus you never have to worry about the exchanger going bad and possibly ruining your gearbox.
     
  12. wbt

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    #12 wbt, May 13, 2019
    An often mistaken view is the heat exchanger is just a cooler. One of it's key functions is to heat the gearbox up quickly. With a bypass the gearbox will stay cold for a long time with street driving, therefore operate outside the engineers intended clearances and specs. Unless the car is being raced I would highly recommend not bypassing this unit. Replacement of the exchanger is not a hard job.
     
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  13. 02360spider

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    #13 02360spider, May 13, 2019
    Do you have pics of the conversion

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  14. Mel Spillman

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    #14 Mel Spillman, May 13, 2019
    No, sorry I do not. Only hard part is access to the heat exchanger. Used a good quality coolant hose in place of the exchanger. If you live in a cold climate, then it might not be a good idea to delete it, but I live in Texas where the gear oil gets to temp rather quickly.
     
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  15. Jorge luis

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    #15 Jorge luis, May 31, 2019
    I agreed with u. I by pass mine and 7 k milles later it burn my magnetic sensor #168729 that will cost your gearbox not pass from 2 gear pain in the ass
     
  16. Mimmo Blue

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    #16 Mimmo Blue, Jun 6, 2019
    My understanding is that the heat exchangers sold today are from a different manufacturer than who originally supplied Ferrari. Do they seem different? Who are selling them today?
     
  17. Shh1966

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    #17 Shh1966, Dec 7, 2019
    Any step by step with pictures on bypassing the heat exchanger
     
  18. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Two Time F1 World Champ

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    #18 Rifledriver, Dec 7, 2019
    Really bad idea. The transmission needs a cooler. Thats what it is there for. They run too hot already. No cooler will just destroy it.
     
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  19. tonino ct

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    #19 tonino ct, Feb 21, 2021
    Hi. I have a leak coming from the bottom of the heat exchanger I m pretty sure I need to remove it. You said was pretty easy, did remove the rear bumper to disconnect the 2 Banjo bolts for thetransaxle oil to the heat exchanger?
     
  20. 02360spider

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    #20 02360spider, Feb 21, 2021
    I removed the waterpump house and I was able to access it from there

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  21. tonino ct

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    #21 tonino ct, Feb 21, 2021
    Great. Thanks
     
  22. 02360spider

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    #22 02360spider, Feb 21, 2021
    It's tight but you can access it I would recommend pulling the seats out its quick that way you have space.

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  23. 24000rpm

    24000rpm F1 Rookie
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    #23 24000rpm, Feb 22, 2021
    I pulled one seat out, because im not going to squat in side the car , I just had more room to lean around if one seat was off the scene.

    removing seat requires a lot of strength and if not done carefully, it would damage your vertebrea here or there. So,......unless you are 200 lbs, of course. im only 160lbs.



     
  24. tonino ct

    tonino ct Karting

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    #24 tonino ct, Feb 22, 2021
  25. tonino ct

    tonino ct Karting

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    #25 tonino ct, Feb 22, 2021
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