360 test pipes trigger OBD2..help?

There is no fix, using the stock ECU's. Talked to two dealers and Heiko confirmed, you must change ECU's.

 

You need to install a O2 Simulator on each of your aft O2 sensors.

Ernesto

 

Ernesto:

Please could you explain what you mean. I wuld like to get the test pipes but not the ECU's beeen trying to find a way.
Thanks

 

Hey gripet, I just got Heiko's ECUs. If he has any more BUY THEM. They are the biggest improvement to my car. The difference is amazing.

Russ

 

An O2 sim simulates the voltage of your O2 sensor, and sends that voltage to the ECU to trick it into thinking the cats are still present and working. I had purchased them for my 360, but my Check Engine lights never came on and I never used them. I sold them a while ago.

Can you please explain what the ECU's do, in terms other than simply "its better?" Thanks... I'd be interested. Price?

 

A resistor isn't going to cut it. The O2 sensor produces a voltage from 0-1 volt depending on the concentration of oxygen in the exhaust. 500mV (0.5 volts) is "stoichiometric" but most vehicle ECU's run the car rich at some times, and lean at others.

When the car in closed loop (when it uses feedback from the O2 sensors to determine fuel injector ON time), it puts more and more fuel in, until the O2 sensor tells it "Ok now we're running right" at which point it backs off until the O2 sensor says "now we're running lean".

So if you graphed the output of the sensor, it would constantly be going up and down above and below 500mV as the ECU kept shooting for the perfect balance.

When you put a resistor in there, you get a constant voltage, not a varying one. Therefore the car will keep adjusting the fuel either richer or leaner, expecting to see some response from the O2 sensor. When it doesn't see the O2 sensor changing it's value, it assumes there is a problem with the sensor, and throws a code.

That's nice - so how do you fix it?

You get 'O2 sims' which simulate the up-and-down voltage signal from a working O2. The thing is, not all O2 sims work the same or as well as others. I have heard the ones from Summit Racing (www.summitracing.com) are very good and work on cars that are 'stubborn' with other sensors. Give it a shot!

 

Hey Russ


Ive read threads about the ECU upgrade for the 360 tell me more Cost against performance etc.

What differance do they make??

Joe

 

SRT, lengthy explanation but there is yet another issue. Not only does the ECU look for a signal (voltage) from the O2 sensors, the ECU also looks for a different value from the down stream cat. In other words the ECU is "Looking" at how well the cat is functioning. When both values are the same, the ECU thinks that the cat is not catalzying and is inoperative.

 

Well, for some reason my 360 came only with the pre-cat O2 sensors - no aft-cat sensors. I have been unable to find another 360 with this setup.

Ernesto

 

that's why you don't have a CEL.
removing the cats, and running dummy plugs for your 2ndary o2 sensors will always, inevitably, cause a CEL. only thing to restet is to disconnect your battery; that'll keep it at bay for a while, but won't fix the issue (for which there is no fix).
the only permanent fix is to run either 1. an obd1 ecu (maybe an early 355 ecu chipped for a 360), or 2. a standalone/custom ecu that won't look for the 2ndary o2's that you've dumped.
however, a 2nd o2 CEL , while it will cause your car to run a little richer, won't trigger limp mode (like some catastrophic failure would). so, it's really only a matter of "putting up with" an annoying little light, and not knowing if something else has gone wrong in your engine; then again, if you really f&@ked up your motor you'd know.

 

Buy a cable that enables you to hook up the ECU to a PC. Usually the cables come with software to change all the settings. Go in, and change it so it doesn't look for an o2 sensor. You can pick these cables up on Ebay for about $120 with software. I don't know if that will work or not, never personally tried it, but I'm betting it'll work.