365 GT oil pressure

The only way to get pressure before you start the engine is to apply pressure externally; an oil pump is not going to get you much of anything when just the starter is cranking.

If you do a search for "oil accumulator" on the internet, you will find all manner of devices that are meant to store-up oil pressure when it is high, and then release it when pressure is low. These solutions are well known to 308 owners (like myself... ) because they live in fear of losing pressure in long sweepers due to the wet-sump system. Most of these things can be externally pressurized and then applied to an engine that is "dry".

One problem with the above devices is that they typically only hold a few quarts of oil, and lose pressure pretty fast (because they need to be mounted in the engine compartment).

If you really want to be sure, get something like the "JEGS Pre-Lube Engine Oiler"; this thing is big enough that you could prime anything...

For all of these, you'll need some sort of adapter to plumb it to something like the oil-pressure-sender port....

 

Oh, should have mentioned that we are all lucky that the oil filters are at the top of our engines, so in a pinch one can pour oil down the central "inlet" where the filters screw on, and just keep feeding oil until a couple of quarts go in.

Obviously not as good, but certainly better than nothing...

And before someone "critiques" me; yes, there is no guarantee that the oil is going to go everywhere that it is needed: and yes, you might over-fill the oil, and need to take some out...

 

While I have no direct experience with 365 GT 2 + 2, in most cars and/or engines I've worked on in past 45 years, including a 365 GTB/4 I just last week replaced all 3 oil cooler/- sump/- tank hoses, cranking with ignition (and if present, usually electric fuel pumps) temporarily disabled has worked sufficiently.
Only time I've resorted to external pre-pressurizing efforts/methods is if engine has been completely and freshly rebuilt, but not pre-lubed/ran/tested on the dyno.
And if/when externally pre-lubing/-pressurizing, most engines should be rotated (by hand or starter cranking) during the process to allow oil into every galley it needs to be in.

 

P.S. Above is/was not intended as "criticism" toward Alex's suggestions nor am I claiming to be an "(self-appointed) expert" or an author/publisher of "books".

 

Hi Timo,

No critique perceived on my part...

And I actually tend to agree with you that there is likely no need to worry about such things unless there is some extraordinary circumstance.

It is funny, however, how paranoia sets-in when a prized possession is involved.

Personally, I've always felt like I was more likely to damage the block mucking with one of those pressurizers, than I was likely to damage bearings with a "dry" start. But I will confess that after a long winter's silence, however, I do feel like it it easy enough to pour some oil down the filter hole in the name of paranoia...

Cheers,
Alex

 

Thank you, for the follow up.

 

Changed all of the oil lines on my car 354 GT4 2+2. I measured about 2 quarts that came out of the oil lines and cooler. I removed one of the filters and poured the oil not in the small center hole but the big hole on the outside. I wanted to if you will refill the lines and the cooler. It took a while but I ended up putting about two quarts in. Seemed like I got oil pressure fairly quickly on start up.