I know its been asked, however i just purchased a rather nice gated 575 with stock exhaust . bottom line --without blowing my head off with rough sounding exhaust, whats the best on a 575 for a ferrari sound and not sounding like a prop car from the fast and furious ? Tubi? and if so just added to original pipes enough? Thanks and i am sorry to ask this again but i have read some treads and still not very clear . by the way the best sound i have ever had is on a maser grandturismo S that i just sold it was perfect!!
First thing to do on an early 575M is to change the center muffler/resonator for straight or X pipes and see if you like the sound with stock mufflers. Straight pipes will give more hp and torque, some people like the sound of X-pipes better. Add a Capristo remote for the bypass valves and you can then choose to be loud or quiet at low revs and on downshifts and only be out about $2K for both. After that, there are probably 10-15 different exhausts you can fit that will all sound slightly different, some with valves and some without. So it depends on your budget and tastes in sound. For many of the exhaust systems, straight pipes and new aftermarket mufflers may be too loud. Your Maserati had a 90 degree crank compared to Ferrari mid-engined V8's 180 degree crank. Makes a different exhaust note. Same crank lay-out as American and German V8s.
You may want to disconect the vacume lines to the exhaust valves so that the valves are always open. This really improves the sound at start up , low revs and trailing throttle.
Will not work on a 550 or 575M because the bypass valves are fail closed. You can bypass the solenoid to get permanent vacuum and that will keep the valves open all the time.
The 575M exhaust is severely restricted from the factory. My 3inch exhaust needs nearly 100hp more fuel as in 4.2 bar fuel pressure vs 3.6 bar stock. While not yet finished with the tune, it does 60-100mph in 4.4 sec compared to 5.4 sec stock according to a Racelogic GPS device. Previously reported times were by stopwatch and probably an over eager thumb. If you are just chasing the sound, then ignore what I have just said. That said my car sounds pretty good now as well.
Very pleased with Capristio Valved Back Boxes and Capristo remote control for the valves. Night and Day difference Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks,,, I was offered a tubi for it new for only 750!! Worth trying?? Or just go with the above suggestions
I like the idea of keeping stock with the straight pipes I just want some extra sound like my other Ferraris Without sounding like a hopped up prop car Extra hp a bonus
boxndoc1, for now you might consider the bypass route as very easy to do. Actually messing around did mine last night just lying behind left rear tire (car on ground) and reaching in, rerouting the two hoses. All of five minutes. In short, once you locate the solenoid at the rear of the car, follow the lower hose connected to it, down to the vacuum "T" and unplug it at the "T". Next go back and remove the top hose from the solenoid and bring it down and plug it into the "T". Last, take the the hose you unplugged from the "T" and loop it back to the top port on the solenoid, simply to keep this hose out of the way and at the same time capping the top solenoid port from dust. Your engine vacuum now sucks both bypass valves open upon start up and they stay open providing a little more sound. My guess is not all the sound you are looking for but better with little effort. Reverse it back to original just as easy. You may want to drop the one 10mm screw w/washer holding the bottom cover panel (closest to the rear of the left rear tire) to allow a little more room to reach in. Also for more information, search bypass valves as Taz has provided detailed pics and info on their location and operation. Bill FL
Thanks for all this info I will try something and get the tubi If I don't use them ill pass them to one Of u guys. By the way any of u going to Cavallino ?? I am Antonio
Taz, and others: any thoughts that 'tricking' the bypass solenoid to remain open all the time will have some other 'unintended consequence"? e.g. slo-down light, burnt valves in 600km, other?
There is a thread on the forum about re arranging the vacume lines at the connection to the exhaust valves so that the valves recive constant vacume and they are always open. I have done this mod to my 575 and along with the factory straight pipes I think it sounds great. Not too loud but definitly a huge improvement on the standard 575 sound. Tubis sound awesome if you like it loud but i prefer it a litte quiter. It is a free mod so worth trying. There is a vid on youtube under 575 exhaust bor something like it which shows how a 575 sounds with this mod. I will look for the link to the other post and post it.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/456-550-575/236340-exhaust-bypass-valve-operation.html Diagram and photo in above thread . Thanks to TAZ
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5AnMGdOMws]Ferrari 575 with straight pipe & open valves - YouTube[/ame]
Antonio- If you can pick up a Tubi for $750, buy it. If it has 575 embossed on the cans, it will be a good match for straight pipes. If not, it is an early one and will still work well with the center muffler/resonator left on the car. Otherwise, may be too loud. If you try it and do not like it, they usually sell for about $1500-2000 used and are not difficult to sell.
James, had this concern also. It was brought out that most Maranello aftermarket exhaust are straight through anyway with bypass hoses plugged and no problems. Many miles of road testing before us. Separately, watched EBay auction (221177998026) last week on set of new 575 Tubi's sell for $610. Seems Tubi market value has been roughly $1200-$1400 usually. Bill FL
Didn't mean to contradict Taz on Tubi pricing. Sold mine quickly for $1400 in 2011, his numbers likely more current than mine. Apparently deals can still be found with patience. Bill FL
Antonio, Come by one day and we can wire open the exhaust valves for you. If that's not loud enough the next step would be resonator delete pipes with the mufflers wired open. Most guys enjoy that combo.
Bill- I have not looked at prices for a while. All kinds of good deals show up on E-Bay, and some are unbelievably good. Like the set of Maranello racing seats with rails that went for about $1K. Should have bought those for resale, but I tend not to do that since it makes Jan surly when the garage fills up with high priced stuff.
Had been lucky enough to acquire some HGTC exhaust and this weekend decided to try something new. From the beginning I have longed for the sounds first heard when putting ears on a 365 GTB4 going by. Today's drive brought a big grin, Maranello sounds as close as it is ever likely to match those memories. For those with this type exhaust I highly recommend trying it with bypass valves open (bypassed), "how to" discussed above in this thread. For HGTC owners the change is obviously at pre bypass speed/acceleration levels, however it carries over nicely into hard acceleration. At cold idle, only slightly noisier (than normal hgtc) and that is only till the idle settles down below 1000 rpm. Upon normal to good acceleration, wonderful, between shifts usually a pop or two, upon downshifting it will wake you up and possibly another pop or two. And deceleration, again music! No sign of resonance other than possible at cold start up, will have to check that again. I honestly anticipated very little after studying these boxes and figured it's only going to be as good as it was before, once the valves were open with large acceleration. What was overlooked was that most of what we hear and drive with is on the primary side of these bypass valves and its here that change is substantial. Stock HGTC is good but this mode IMO brings life. Just my 2 cents. Will note that I have tried to record hgtc sounds with an iPhone to share and so far unhappy with my results. Did record today's bypassed start up and will see if it's useable. Car is 2002, with factory straight pipes and HGTC silencers, sport mode. Bill FL
Bill- The big change is on downshifts, where the valves slam shut when the throttle is lifted and all the burble is lost. Same thing occurs on upshifts because, unless you are shifting at 7000 rpm or so, when the F1 system closes the throttle momentarily, the valves will close. I think the ideal solution is to install a Capristo remote for the bypass solenoid, which lets you select either open or controlled by the Motronic ECU. The Capristo unit fits into the harness for the OEM solenoid and then the OEM solenoid fits into the Capristo unit. Then you just need a ground wire. Another option is a hard wired switch to the solenoid. The rear fog light switch could even be used for that purpose.
Dan- No need to wire the valves open. Just run the long vacuum hose to the T connector for the two pneumatic valves and use the left over piece of hose to close both ends of the bypass solenoid. A five minute job once the rear underbody cover is removed, and about the same amount of time to reverse.
