599 All oil change price

I did my own so i know what kind of labour it is and the price of the goods. It's very acceptable. You Will not find cheaper and it's not a steal. Make sure he ads the tutela to the oil .And never pour oil with the engine running

 

off top of my head i think 1200 to 1300 is normal all in. 2k sounds way too high for a 12 cyl

 

Annual service at my Ferrari dealership is between $1900-$2000 parts and labor, CA taxes included.

IMHO, a $2k charge by a non-Ferrari outfit is a bit too much especially if they weren't installing specified Ferrari exotic synthetic oil, oil additive & lube and parts! Believe me, having been an aerospace engineering manager for NASA/EASA/NASDA space projects as well as F1 customer technical support for Ferrari and other teams, not all oils or lubricants, etc. even when they meet the same specification(s) are equal.

When OEM equipment are qualification tested for functionality and durability by Ferrari and others, all externally sourced items included in the OEM product, eg, oils, lubes, etc, are baseline-configured to the exact product item and manufacturer. Therefore, subsequent change(s) are not permissible, unless separate testing using the newly introduced material has been successfully conducted.

Emptor caveat.

 

I agree that fluids are different. The standard sets a minimum bar but that doesn't mean that some fluids are much better than the minimum.

The above quote is why the manuals say things like DOT3 for brake fluid and people run around acting like newer versions (DOT4 or DOT5.1) will not work. They will work fine they just haven't been fully qualified and there is ZERO motivation to go back to an old design and qualify new fluids. Yet, people get lost on this type of issue every day. And no, this phenomenon is not limited to brake fluid, it was just an example.

 

Doesn't Ferrari use Pennzoil that we could buy as well

Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk

 

My 599 just had annual service last week. $1,950 for basically an oil change. and whatever else they called it. I do think wiper blades were put on as part of it. Ironic because I have never used wipers.

This was Ferrari dealer. to their credit, they pick up may cars and transport them in a closed truck 150 miles each way for "free". Maybe the $1,300 charge to fix the radio cover or the $4,000 gasket job had a bit of margin...

Still worth it!

 

Hi there Skidkid,

There are indeed quite a few examples of why sometimes an updated version of an oil or lube or other newly-released material may not be suitable for relatively older equipment, engines, power units, or components thereof. I ran into these situations often while also performing my M&PE duties to oversee and control specification versions of materials we used in our devices and/or as-designed vs as-built units for our space, aerospace and F1 customers with baseline configuration control requirements.

To provide an early example without revealing in this forum any customer-controlled information, let's go back to the introduction of premium or regular unleaded fuel to replace the old leaded gasoline. Unleaded fuel is not recommended for use in older cars with engine/valve designs that rely on the lead and sulfur components of older leaded gasoline to lubricate them. Many an early adapter of unleaded fuel at that time soon filled their older cars and found out much later to their woes that their engines' valves /seats/seals deteriorated or seized quickly!

Back in the early 90's, I used to dump cans of fuel modifiers that promised to clean injectors, improve fuel MPG, etc., into my two '80 280SEL (DOT-approved US conversion) and '89 560SEC daily driver cars. It didn't take long (say about 10-15K miles or a year later) for their engines to experience serious valve seal problems that required full engine rebuilds, within a year of each other. Those were very expensive lessons, so as I said - Caveat Emptor!

Therefore it is terribly important to know and understand what materials or processes have changed in a new version of an older oil, lube, material, etc., and study if there might be a potential downside to its use and not simply rely on hearsay from anyone, even from well-meaning mechanics who haven't studied the updated materials or experimented extensively for long-term usage with conclusive results.

Our Ferraris are simply to expensive value wise, to risk deviating from factory-recommended items, that is of course unless you're trusting your car's engine, tranny, drive train, exhausts, ECU, emissions-related equipment, etc., to be highly modified by known and trusted aftermarket equipment Ferrari tuners who can also warranty their own mods for daily use and reliability, eg, Novitec or Michelotto, etc.

BTW- Last time I read from Forza magazine's Shop Talk, replacement of a 599 engine is about $25-30k plus labor! Could be more now! I could think of a lot better use or investments for that kind of outlay that will make more money.

 

Jose- Does that mean you go back 50 years looking for lubricants recommended in the OM of a 308? I hope not because there have been a lot of improvements since then. I think you do not have the big picture on Ferrari maintenance. The earliest 599s are 13 years old and some of the recommended lubricants are not even available now.

 

So I just had the annual servicing done on my 612 on Friday. I have an independent Ferrari mechanic in California using all factory approved materials. He charged me a total of $1428 for the annual which included engine oil and filter, gear box oil change, anti freeze drain and overal inspection. Over and above that the rear brake pads were replaced for $641.70 parts and labor.

 

Terry,
Agree with you that a lot of oils, greases, materials have become either obsolete in the intervening 50 years and innovative improvements have occurred since then. Typically, superseded materials and their specifications usually refer to a replacement material / spec that's been tested by a governing authority, eg, SAE, ANSI, ASME, ISO, etc. The problem sometimes crops up with materials that have been "abandoned" without any known or acknowledged replacements.

So therefore using materials recommended by Ferrari service facilities, even for the oldest early 50's models, specifically Ferrari Classiche at best or long time non-Ferrari service facilities would be prudent. Also, a phone call to a local Ferrari Service Manager would usually do the trick as they're more friendly nowadays to respond to inquiries given their need to conform to customer service quality standards, as imposed by JD Power, etc.

However for Ferrari and other auto manufacturing engineering and production in all countries that conform to industry (and/or military standards or specifications) ISO 9001/9002, etc. requirements since they've been undergoing such audits / certification approvals (the 599 models included) there's been mandatory requirements for all their materials to be approved / certified to such controlled standards or specifications. Just peruse any OMM book to check the specs to which the listed oil, grease, and materials conform too.

Otherwise, Ferrari or any other EU, US, German, Japanese or other manufacturer will not be able to meet their own specific countries' governing DOT, EPA, NSTB, IHSS, etc. oversight bodies. That's not including the later RoHS compliance mandatory regulations of the EU to which all manufacturers that sell vehicle products within the EU MUST conform to. Perfect example is the ongoing "Dieselgate" issue that Audi, VW, BMW, and Daimler have become embroiled in!

I know it's become a terribly convoluted (and often frustrating) world governed by many industry and government "must conform" to a plethora of requirements, such that all industries bar none have become "hostages" to an 'alphabet soup' group of external compliance needs. As the former de facto M&PE for the company I retired from, this became a key task to ensure buy in from customers' quality reps buying off the products we designed / manufactured to their specs. Oy vey!

Sorry for the somewhat long, but necessary explanation and thanks for understanding my recommendations, conservative as they may be, to avoid future headaches and unwanted avoidable expenses.

 

I was an aircraft mechanic for 20 years. I do most of the simple maint on all my vehicles. I use the very best filters that money can buy and Amsoil lubricants. On my Porsche GT2 the factory recomended gearbox oil was about 80 a quart . Amsoil makes a better oil at 20. Slam dunk. These are machines not magical creatures. A thousand bucks plus for a service is insane.

 

Jose- I agree with David, you are way overthinking this. If a lubricant meets the same or improved specs, it is fine. Mine uses all Valvoline lubricants that I feel are far superior to the Shell products Ferrari recommends and that I originally tried.

 

Remember this is the same company that recommends using distilled water to wash your car. Sure that will work better, but really is it going to happen every time you wash your car? Lubricants from every manufacture have improved tremendously over the last 10 years.

 

Terry -

I'm not overthinking this question; just simply offering careful advise based on past experiences.

What I was warning about and trying to get across was not to try or use any "new" product(s) out-of-the-blue without any simple research or study to verify / validate their sales brochure or ad hype which typically don't provide pros/cons for their usage. Likewise it's best to consult 'experts' with vast knowledge and experiences on the subject to avoid any heartaches. This forum is great for obtaining the type of info and data needed for maintaining our beloved steeds.

Though there's a technical caveat about applying the word "expert" to anyone; being that "ex" is an unknown variable and as pronounced "spurt'" is a 'drip under pressure'! : < o ; < )

However when you mentioned "...If a lubricant meets the same or improved specs, it is fine...", be careful using such a general statement. For example, older cars which recommend DOT 3 or DOT 4 compliant brake fluids (ester based) must not use DOT 5 compliant brake fluid (silicone based) due to its incompatibility to rubber elastomer seals and possibly other materials in the system. DOT 5.1 brake fluid is more advisable.

Another warning is relative to the use of alcohol additives to fuel, especially as the alcohol content approaches 15% (E85 gasoline) or higher. Along with involvement in F1 racing, we also worked with Penske and PacWest for then CART and Indy Racing when pure alcohol was specified as fuel. Their aluminum-alloy engines and other components immediately corroded after racing until they started flushing the remaining alcohol out completely with gasoline and ran their engines for a few minutes.

Agree likewise with David, Amsoil makes great synthetic oil products. I've known about Amsoil since the 80's and it is also much less expensive because they haven't resorted to using high-priced advertising on TV or elsewhere; just mostly word of mouth then and they limited sponsorship expenses to a minimum.

FYI - All pure synthetic engine oil products use the same base synthetic chemical PAO or Polyalphaolefin, which in unadulterated form is a product originally created for and still used for efficient cooling of military aerospace radar and for computer electronics hardware. PAO is also relatively cheaper as compared to more advanced environmentally-safe, non-ozone depleting hydrofluoroether-type chemicals like 3M's Fluorinert FC-72 @ $500+/US gallon (which the Japanese use as cooling fluid on their JEM portion of the ISS; whereas NASA specified very cheap Anhydruous Ammonia, but is a human health hazard and corrosive to equipment).

The differences among brands, eg, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Shell Rotella, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, etc, are the variability of the extra components, eg, viscosity enhancers, anti-wear, lube properties, etc, added to PAO to enhance its use as engine/motor oil for everyday and/or racing applications.

 

Anthony -

Relative to Ferrari recommending distilled water for washing/cleaning their cars, indeed they're just being proactive to avoid anything that might mar or damage your car's paint finish or to prevent the appearance of hard water spots or calcium / mineral deposits on its finish which are very difficult to remove without the use of solvents that may be harmful to the paint's clear coating or via using 'elbow grease' with abrasive polishing compounds.

Found that out from bad experience when I used to wash my own cars using plain tap water (even softened tap water) and dish washing fluid (another no-no). Spots would appear in short time before I could dry the entire car with a chamois cloth, especially when the climate was warm and dry.

Nowadays (as I get lazier), I just employ a pro car detailer who comes to my home to wash and clean my cars ($25 each) every two weeks or so and he uses deionized, demineralized water. He has a system in his home to convert tap water and his van carries a huge tank for multiple jobs. IMHO, this expense is well worth it.

My 599HGTE was also delivered with the optional Ferrari (thick nylon or polyester) red fitted car cover and bag so when I don't plan to drive it, I place the cover on (after the engine has cooled) to maintain it relatively dust free in between use. Takes about an easy minute to install or remove so it's a no brainer! Unfortunately, Ferrari no longer has stock for those 599 fitted covers although eBay sometimes have them but often for twice the original price!

 

Jose- Everybody who knows even the basics knows DOT 5 silicone brake fluid is not an improved spec and is not recommended for use in Ferraris.

 

Is this Oilchat.com?

 

yes although I could not find the Ferrari specific spec in the stores in my area .. but was able to order it online....I keep a case so that if I need to add oil .. I get my newer cars serviced at the Dealer and it seems I pay around 2000 for this service..for my 599GTO