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83 Boxer major engine and overall resto

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Ludwig, Dec 7, 2016.

  1. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior
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    #1 Ludwig, Dec 7, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I originally purchased Boxer 39303 Rosso/Nero in the mid-'90s with 10500 mi. This was and remains a very original car with light and transient DOT therapy. The original problems consisted of blowing some oil and generally not running smoothly. In 2000 The engine was rebuilt finding that # 12 cylinder was out of round and the piston was "warped".
    So... new liner. all bored, new pistons, new rods, bearings, valves, guides etc. Now with 18000 mi I have been unsatisfied with the overall performance noting seeming uneven mixture control and blowing excess smoke from R side until very thoroughly warm. Power has been good and it was on the dyno with great performance. Given that the last belt service was in 2000 I figured it made sense to do a major service and to try and resolve all potential issues. Leak down testing revealed 1% (@100psi) for all cylinders except for # 12-9% (exhaust), #1 3% (equivocal as to location ?intake), and #2 6% (intake).
    I had rebuilt the distributor some years ago-old thread- and this certainly did help. The CIS only had new injectors but after seeing the valves I think its pretty obvious that the distribution pump needs some rebuilding calibrating and overall TLC.
    Beyond this, all of the suspension components have never been touched and are in obvious need of resto and bushings bearings etc. The overall condition besides this is very good with basically minor chipping of the black "texture" finish (boy would I like Newman's formula). The heat shield support brackets had been bent a bit -seems kind of typical.
    I have left the AC system intact with its R12 and have just found a local HVAC guy who will pump it /"store" it and then recharge the R12 so I figured I'd leave it original.
    I rebuilt the braking system some years ago and did coat the calipers red (sorry) -I plan on redoing these probably to powder coated "gold" or anodized depending on who I can find locally. Likewise, I will try to find an anodized for the suspension components-any thoughts about a gold powder coat option?
    I am considering treating the headers with wt ceramic coating. One concern is the crappy "heat shield". I was thinking of removing it to better allow for coating and then possibly wrapping the area with modern heat shield-any thoughts from this digression from originality?
    As of now, the heads are off and the valve train disassembled- clearly inconsistent mixture bank to bank and cylinder to cylinder. The guide all look good but there is a bit of mild pitting and minimal lipping of the valve faces. All of the cylinder bores are evenly crosshatched and appear to be in great shape. I see no reason to split the block.
    The heads are now out for tanking/cleaning and then a meticulous valve job.
    I am about to rebuild the fuel distributors and bring them to a buddy with a full test bench to dial in the system.
    Will steam clean the chassis and then address all the chips/repaint etc with my version of "texture black"
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  2. Dave rocks

    Dave rocks F1 World Champ
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    Awesome!!! I love these threads :)
     
  3. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    I'm sure Newman can add some incite.
     
  4. dwhite

    dwhite F1 Rookie

    #4 dwhite, Dec 7, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Nice work, brings back spring time memories.

    Question, could you get to the pins which the rear clamshell pivots from. That is how I removed the rear as I figured it would go back in the exact position it came off - tried to remove the screw up factor. However, I do not have that big piece in the rear its much more slender giving easy access. see picture

    Good luck with all the work.
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  5. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior
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    #5 Ludwig, Dec 9, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  6. jww427

    jww427 Karting
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    john w. warner IV
    If you don't mind the louder sound, I've been told that a Tubi exhaust really opens up a BBi because the original exhaust was fairly restrictive for emissions control.
    That said, if I had my engine apart I would send the heads to Caribou engineering for some mild tweaks, maybe some custom cams, and install 10:1 pistons with good rods.
    Mr. Newman could elaborate on this.
    JWW
     
  7. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Two Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
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    BB's had no emission control so the exhaust is unaffected by it unless modified by the federalizer and his has all the stock, unmodified components by the looks of it..
     
  8. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior
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    Yes, I believe the exhaust system is basically unmodified aside from the capped off air injector ports- I am thinking of removing them and welding them smooth then probably ceramic coating to white. I am considering removing the old heat shields to allow for a better coating and finishing and then just wrapping the area adjacent to the boots with high-tech shielding such as "heat shield armour". Any thoughts?
     
  9. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Two Time F1 World Champ

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    #9 Rifledriver, Dec 15, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2016
    Those small capped off pipes down near the collectors are not added on air injection. Those are OE and are analyzer ports for tuning and diagnosis. Leave them alone.

    Some kind of heat shielding around the inner boots is a good idea. BB's really cook them.
     
  10. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior
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    Thanks- I had thought the flat bung plug was for the analysis but this now makes sense.
     
  11. buddyg

    buddyg Formula 3
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    Great project, look forward to seeing this through completion!
     
  12. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior
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    #12 Ludwig, Mar 1, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  13. George Vosburgh

    George Vosburgh F1 Rookie

    May 26, 2011
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    Very nice Ludwig!
     
  14. dwhite

    dwhite F1 Rookie

    Those suspension parts look perfect. Your car is going to be fantastic.

    If I don't part with car, I want to do the same thing. I originally cleaned them when I redid all the bushings and they looked fine so I decided not to replate (dumb, dumb, dumb), and after two years they are in need.
     
  15. Gialllo uno

    Gialllo uno Formula Junior

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    Incredible work and attention to detail. I love these threads and the pictures. It is very inspiring.
     
  16. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior
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    I thought it would be a good time for an update as to my progress- The reversal of entropy-it does take more energy to restore order! As the project evolved with essentially a "freshening" of an otherwise very intact Boxer this did seem to morph considerably (ask my wife). After all, "if you have gon this far" becomes manifest.
    So far I have restored the front and rear subframes to as close to factory original as I can figure. This involves complete stripping of the old Cosmoline (Dinol) followed by blasting to bare metal. I then primed with black DP 90 (although the factory primer was white); this was followed by a single stage black, and then I sued Wurth black stoneguard over this. Very close to the OEM finish with perhaps somewhat finer "orange peeling" than the original. Overall I am very pleased with the outcome.
    Every system has then been renewed/refinished. I have established a reliable Zn yellow chromate replating system and have been able to re-finish a myriad of parts. Stripping, glass beading, polishing as needed, and then re-plating. I am replacing most nuts and small bolts with new.
    I have restored all parts of the front and rear hubs/suspension, brake components etc. Many parts I powder coated to gloss or matt black as indicated.
    I have completely restored and rebuilt the brake/clutch pedal box, master cylinders, and master vac.
    All of the heater boxes and blowers are refreshed. The radiator is refinished.
    I am installing a york ac compressor that is a virtual match for the original but has slightly higher output and will convert to 134a-never a strong point but the OEM system did work pretty well when it was cold out.
    I rebuilt and refinished the alternators, fuel distributors, fuel tans, oil tank, etc.
    I am rebuilding a new belly pan from thicker gauge aluminum- just need to bead roll properly and then re-install.
    The engine heads are back from some TLC for the valves- -both look beautiful, And I will start the engine reassembly in a bit. I still have to install the new billet differential carrier from Paul- really beautiful piece.
    I am waiting for a quote on new covers to OEM speck for the seats.
    Not an inclusive list .....I'll post more images as re-assembly continues.


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  17. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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    Great pictures. And even doing the plating yourself.....Well done and great respect.

    Best Peter
     
  18. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior
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    This has been a very busy Summer but now I'm back to a little more focused attention to reassembly. I have re-plated virtually all of the parts in need and am completing the suspension, brakes, fuel tank, general engine compartment assembly. The new Billet differential carrier is assembled and ready to be installed. The Heads are in great shape- all redone with new seals and ready for assembly. I am taking some inspiration from Paul re the "correct" finishes and I will address the spark plug tubes that were painted rather than what should be Zn yellow chromate. I'll see how easy it is to remove them:).
    I've refinished the front brake cooling shrouds and powder coated them.
    I am also continuing to refinish all of the fiberglass components with still a bit of stripping and then re-priming and coating and then re-felting the appropriate areas. I acquired all of the OEM "paper" vent ducting and still am acquiring some of the correct water and vac lines.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior
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  20. xplodee

    xplodee Formula Junior

    Jan 3, 2017
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    This thread is great, I can't wait to see your progress. If you don't mind me asking, how much was one of these worth in the 90's when you bought it? I'm jealous of all of you guys with BB's! I've used a lot of the caswell plating kits over the years, nice job with the zinc yellow chromate. fwiw it's a very durable and resistant coating too, if you keep the car in good shape it'll be clean for half a century or more.
     
  21. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior
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    Boxer prices were modestly high at the time and I paid about 100k.
    I do like the plating process, it allows me to restore a bunch of smaller odds and ends to great condition.
     
  22. xplodee

    xplodee Formula Junior

    Jan 3, 2017
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    Yup, and you can keep track of what you're removing better so you don't have to have the car totally apart at one time. I always fear that a plating company would lose my parts too. I would't be comfortable performing any restoration if I didn't do the plating myself.
     
  23. JLF

    JLF Formula 3
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    So would I need cadmium plating or yellow chromate to do what your doing? What kit did you buy from caswell? Do they also have the power supply?
     
  24. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior
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    I am using the "copy cad" system from Caswell https://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/zinc-plating-kits.html and you need to add an immersion heater- they have a link to a good one that will work with the Zn+ bath. I purchased the CC (constant current) power supplies from Amazon- cheap Chinese but they work- I have a 10 A and a 5A unit and you can connect them in series and get 15 A
    There is a learning curve but the results are excellent.
    No one really "cadmium" plates as this is highly toxic-this system would allow you to mimic the old "cadmium" look if so desired. For the Boxer just about everything is yellow Chromated.
     

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