A GENUINE KIND of gear replacement for 63307100 f355 timing actuator

Thank you so much for the in-depth explanation.

So it look likes in addition to the easy-to-crack gear, the potentiometer is also very unique. But luckily not that bad since I seldom see the potentiometer a faulty issue?

 

Given the circled potentiometer is not applicable to replace f355 unique genuine potentiometer, and if the substitute which Eurospares claimed is working , does it mean Eurospares' substitute own the f355 unique genuine potentiomter?

It comes to my mind that I should try to hunt a interchangeable one as Qavion mentioned to verify by opening it, although Qavion had assumed in the thread New owner with ventilation problem it is not because it is poti 120 degree.

I have found one which is poti 180 degree.

 

As promised, video file of the genuine actuator operation cycle on the car uploaded FYR.

 

So sorry for the late reply since I spent some time checking the video I recorded when actuator on the car. Apart from some already replied, below are the rest of replies what I owed you except the ohm things. Video file of the genuine actuator operation cycle on the car also uploaded FYR.

1. No, outlook I said is not meant for physical range, 180 degree physical limit, and is simply for the appearance. But the outlook helps me to tell if there is a genuine gear inside the actuator as well as a hope of the genuine potentiometer inside although no.

When I said "different outlook" it is for comparing the two hunted actuators. However, they are both with five wires, same potentiometer although different from genuine. And the squire drive of the two, including dimension, are the same as genuine.

Particularly one of the two hunted actuators is exactly the same as genuine in casing, motor, internal gears and stops as well a the squire drive except potentiometer, wire color and the plug/connector.

2. I have tried to find the genuine round plug everywhere but no luck. But if the potentiometer could function the same as genuine, migrating the plug from the genuine one is not a issue.

 

Thank you so much for sharing your video although sorry a bit hard to tell for me.

When turned on the ignition, as I said earlier, it did run through a full 180 degrees for calibration and the square drive goes back to the knob position I set so it is probably the reason for not at 0 degree.

Did you say a bit hard to see positions 5 &6 IN MY VIDEO? If that's the case, I will post the screenshots for 6 stops which is easier to identify and that is why I spent some time to check the video when plays.

 

I usually set the knob to blow only at front towards to me which is stage 4.

I have enlarge to full screen to re-examine your video, it is clear now then I have realized it is the calibration process. Sorry, my bad I thought yours are the process when turning the knob in the panel.

I have re-examine mine as well, you are right and I was wrong when said 6 different positions earlier, last position seems to be the same position as 3, and position 5 also seems to be the same position as 2. Screenshots are uploaded in sequence.

But by saying this, why the same square drive position could lead to different blow function?

 

Yes, calibrate every restart.

 

Qavion, I have to correct a misstatement I assumed earlier and please disregard it. I have recalled, when observing the square drive movement of genuine timing actuator on the car, I did purposely start testing by turning the knob from the leftest "auto" to the rightest "defogging" in sequence.

So the square drive position of auto in not at 0 degree as well as the rightest defogging is not at 180 degree.

Did you expect by turning the knob, the square drive should begin at 0 degree and end at 180 degree?

 

Luckily I have located pictures of opened actuator, so I do not need to hunt one.

The blue/orange potentiometer is very different and simple outlook.

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Thank you so much for your kind advice and information.

I had the issue for not having totally correct air blow direction especially, from time to time, it is strange no matter in which position it always accompanies "leaks" in defogging direction? So I have car shop to inspect and then discovered the timing actuator gear is broken and the whole story begins. With the replacement gear it acts normally and air blows at the direction as it should be.

Agreed with the quirks you said. But I imagine some folks might not know their gear is partially working and partially or nearly cracked, which may cause it spins freely for certain range. So I started this threads to address the importance of a healthy gear and the risk of a aging stock.

As for the leak from the defogging direction, car shop said it is normal in most cars such as Porsche and of course Ferrari. What do you think?

I have to re-examine if there is still leak after my immobilizer system back on the car.

 

A PARTIALLY cracked gear I mentioned earlier. Actually similar pictures are everywhere in many threads with different kinds of cracked situation.

One thing to pay attention is the square drive movement is BACK AND FORTH during the rotation when turning the panel's knob from auto to defogging, instead of clockwise all the way down to the end. You can see from the video or the screenshots I uploaded earlier. But please understand that when said clockwise it is by looking at the front side of the actuator and, when looking at the square drive which is on the back of the actuator, it is count-clockwise,

I imagine some people might not know their AGING gear is already partially or nearly cracked as I did.

With the back and forth movement, partially cracked gear could still probably make the actuator acting normally though, but sometimes failed to switch to certain air flow direction and then a mess.

If you have the weird thing or do a prevention, people might need to open the case and check if the aging gear is already partially cracked.

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Just a reminder for people and car shop. DO NOT CUT the casing of either for 63306700 and 63307100.

It can pried open with the least damage. But do not pry it brutally.

For 63307100, upper and lower cases are fixed by a riveted studs at four corners. Use knife to cut the protruded plastic above the stud, insert sort of flat screwdriver into the hole 5 wires passing through to start prying from here. Be nice and slowly since the studs themselves are easy to break. Then it can be pried open leaving the studs complete. For the other similar riveted studs inside the casing everywhere, the way is same but easier.

For 63306700, there are two kind of casings actually, upper and lower cases are glued going round along the edge for the one different from 63307100 . It is more difficult to open than timing actuator. Heat it up and squeeze the casing to have the glue along the edges cracked and separated, then it can pried open with minimum damage to the edges.

Doing so will do you good to put the cases back as a whole as well as barely visible repair trace.

 

Thank you so much for adding this info. It is the lid actuator 63306700.

But, based on those 63306700 and 63307100 actuators I have located and worked. I have never happened to see such a one piece gear, other than the two piece over-molded gear, being broken. Not knowing other people's case?

And, by using this opened casing for example, the front edge is being cut I believe and that is what I am trying to address and avoid.

 

Great work! Yes, the durability is a critical issue for 3D printed to my knowledge.

I had once 3D printed other components but only lasted for a couple of months.

As far as I know, 3D printed seems to be popular for individuals to make gears of actuator by their own. Many people around the world, just like steved033 herein 3D printed his unique gear for 63307100 timing actuator for years, but I do not know which material they used to solve the durability issue.

 

Thank you very much Eric for a lesson.

I think you mean Polyetheretherketone Carbon Fiber. Is it the polycarbonate redwedge mentioned?