Air conditioner Rebulders | FerrariChat

Air conditioner Rebulders

Discussion in '206/246' started by Seabee46, Feb 17, 2019.

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  1. Seabee46

    Seabee46 Rookie

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  2. swift53

    swift53 F1 Veteran
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  3. Seabee46

    Seabee46 Rookie

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  4. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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    I believe you can still buy these compressors as new. Might be cheaper than rebuild?

    Best Peter
     
  5. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    Let me guess, your compressor seals failed from sitting inactive.
    :) Common story.

    Buy one from TCCI with the proper flange fittings, you'll need RH suction if your install is like mine. It will be under $500, have 20% higher displacement with viton seals that won't be subject to the same early failure and can accomodate a host of refrigerants such as R12, R22, R134a, and if you really like excitement: Propane.

    Same form and sizing as original, for period correctness, swap your Aspira Friga label if you have one. Not sure where you are, your profile does not say if you are in the USA


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  6. Martin308GTB

    Martin308GTB F1 Rookie
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    And paint it silver, like I did. I also omitted the label, since it's so poorly mounted, that I feared, that it will find its way into the belt drive some day. It's hardly visible anyway as soon as the compressor is installed.

    Best from Germany
    Martin
     
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  7. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    +1, nice touch of oiginality.
    Duplicolor DE1650 "Cast Coat Aluminum" is my favorite finish for this, it is available in the USA, not sure about EU or elsewhere
    https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/DC_DE1650
     
  8. Martin308GTB

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    I just purchased a spray can of high-temp aluminium finish. Good enough for me.
    The new compressor install bothered me with the need of removing it again, shortly before my install was finished.
    I did not notice early enough, that the TCCI compressor comes with UNF-threads but the lower bracket bolts are M10x1.25.
    So I had to remove it again and install M10x1,25 helicoils like Ferrari did on the Aspera compressor. For the upper mount Ferrari supplied special studs with M10x1,25 for the nuts and UNF on the compressor end. Crazy.

    Best from Germany
    Martin
     
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  9. wrxmike

    wrxmike Moderator
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    The Aspera was a license built York 210 compressor, the T/CCI is the successor company to York
    https://tccimfg.com/tcci-produces-seven-millionth-compressor/
    Like Martin, I found it more convenient and cheaper to fit a new T/CCI ( and paint it silver) than to rebuild an older Aspera with new seals. (You do need to swap the clutch from the Aspera to the T/CCI )
     
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  10. Martin308GTB

    Martin308GTB F1 Rookie
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    I decided against a rebuild of my old compressor, when I heard of the 20% more displacement of the TCCI-compresdor, Scott (synchro) already mentioned above. Using 134a in an old R12-designed system can need any upgrade. Together with a new R134a expansion valve and fully charged system (done last week, I hope my complete rebuild will hold the charge) I cannot notice much decrease of system power like many folks complain with R134a.
    It's not very hot weather yet, but vent temperatures are perfectly within specs.
    When swapping the clutch I also also replaced the big bearing of the clutch. It seems that driving around for over a decade without belt damaged it with permanent vibrations while standing still.

    Best Regards
    Martin
     
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  11. synchro

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    The Valeo compressor is even cheaper, already silver and these will run R12, mind the correct oil you need to add, PAG. If you want a full R134a system then you will need to change flare fittings for O-Ring seals in the downstream portions; dryer, condensor and new lines can be sourced, the evaporator would require the new fittings
     
  12. swift53

    swift53 F1 Veteran
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    Do you have a source for the Valeo unit and a part #?

    Thank you Scott!

    Regards, Alberto
     
  13. Martin308GTB

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    Except a new compressor, dryer and expansion valve and replacing ALL O-rings with R134a compatible ones, I did nothing. The fittings on the 308 are flared ones. It took some time to glean the correct O-rings though. After applying vacuum with my own vacuum pump, which held for 24 hrs. I diagnosed the system as tight. Whether it's also tight under up to 18-20 bar pressure, time will tell.
    Of course I needed the R134a-conversion service adaptors on the compressor.
    Maybe I will replace the lines some day. But this is such a PITA, that I won't do it, if my system holds the charge for an acceptable period of time.
    I also had the evaporator out, what was a PITA as well. But this I did, since the GRP-housing was cracked and condensation found its way into the footwell, instead of draining through the drain hose.
    Repaired it with GRP and now it's water-proof.

    BTW. Valeo compressors are SO MUCH cheaper than those from T/CCI, that I suspect chinese or indian junk. Wouldn't purchase it. It's a one-off investment. But this is just my personal opinion.

    Best Regards
    Martin
     
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  14. TTR

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    Even printed on the label & package “... in P.R.C.” :rolleyes:
     
  15. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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  16. Martin308GTB

    Martin308GTB F1 Rookie
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    #16 Martin308GTB, Mar 29, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2019
    Not that I'm getting misinterpreted. Meanwhile there are also quality parts coming from China. But these are no more so cheap.
    It's just, when parts are surprisingly cheap, I suspect junk.
    And regarding Valeo, I'm traumatized anyway because of their alternators.
    A A/C compressor is not so essential. It can fail without bad consequences. The crappy waterpumps -still overprized for what they are- currently available are annoying, but in the worst case one has do do the job twice. But when folks begin to install chinese $125.00 steering racks in their Ferraris I start worrying. Luckily I don't plan to purchase another 308.

    Best from Germany
    Martin
     
  17. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    Do you hold vacuum below 100 microns for 24 hrs?
    BTW, don't forget you need different oil, PAG, with that refrigerant.

    You do not need to stick with the UNF threads (although O-ring seals are superior) and you can buy the compressor with the top fittings ready for the original flange fittings, so cosmetically identical to original.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-C-Compressor-New-Compressor-4-Seasons-58044/352272233740?epid=75912870&hash=item52050fb50c:g:dNYAAOSwzvZbn0ul
     
  18. Martin308GTB

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    #18 Martin308GTB, Mar 29, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2019
    No, this low vacuum my selfmade vacuum pump cannot handle. But the instructions in the 308 WSM say something -0,97 bar. And this my system did hold.

    Of course. The compressor came prefilled with 420ml PAG 46. According to the York/T/CCI-Service Manual, these compressors have a wide range from around 150ml till 455ml working oil capacity. Supplier recommended to take away 120ml for my system.

    The UNF-threads I was referring to have nothing to do with the fittings. I meant the threads for the upper and lower compressor mount.

    That's what I did. Identical to original. Though my compressor has no flange fittings.
    This is factory:

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    Don't know, from what car the OP's compressor comes. An early Ferrari 308 it's apparently not.
    Fittings and double belt pulley vote against it.

    Best Regards
    Martin
     
  19. Martin308GTB

    Martin308GTB F1 Rookie
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    Sorry. Now I see it. It's for a '72 Dino. 308s have different fittings and only a single belt. Mounts are probably different too.

    Best Regards
    Martin
     
  20. Dazanz

    Dazanz Karting

    Jan 24, 2015
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    Does anyone have a TCCI or Valeo compressor part number that will be a bolt in replacement. My compressor has a mainseal leak and I should investigate a new one rather than a repair. It looks exactly like the one in Seabee46 first post photo. My car is a 365GT4 2+2
     

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  21. Martin308GTB

    Martin308GTB F1 Rookie
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    #21 Martin308GTB, Mar 29, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2019
    It doesn't look exactly like in the OP's first pic. Yours has a Rotoloc-head like my 308-compressor, while the OP's has a flange fitting head.
    I would recommend searching for 'York 210R'. And asking the Fchat buddies in the vintage-subforum regarding direction right or left.

    Best Regards from Germany
    Martin
     
  22. pshoejberg

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    #22 pshoejberg, Mar 30, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2019
    For information find attached manual regarding the york compressor. Note that oil volume depends of installation angle. Martin, be aware that the old original hoses in our aircon systems will leak r134a slowly but surely. I have to recharge my converted system in the 308 every second year and suspect that it is due to leaking hose barriers. I have acquired all new hoses for my 512bbi aircon conversion and hope for less losses of cooling fluid. By the way I run a new TCCI compressor in the 308 and it works flawless and blows very cold air though it is still black painted. I changed the compressor due to shaft seal failure.

    Best peter
     

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  23. pshoejberg

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    Also find some useful information in this article.
     

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  24. Martin308GTB

    Martin308GTB F1 Rookie
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    Hi Peter,

    I heard this from others too. For now I am glad, that the system works at all after such a long time. I would hate it, if I would have replaced the hoses and then a hard to obtain component would have shown being faulty (evaporator or thermostat switches). I always start with the easiest steps :) I will now look and wait, how long the system holds its refrigerant and decide accordingly.

    Best Regards
    Martin
     
  25. pshoejberg

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    I bought a 12 kg r134a bottle in Germany and just fill the system with +- 300 gram of cooling fluid every second year. It is not a big deal and it is certainly easier than changing the hoses out.
     

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