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Am I being overly cautious???

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by christopher, Apr 17, 2005.

  1. christopher

    christopher Formula 3

    Nov 29, 2003
    1,131
    Ontario California
    Full Name:
    Christopher
    #1 christopher, Apr 17, 2005
    Ok, 308Rob was a helpfull enough to post jack points for my benefit.

    Well, my concern is that on the front where the 45 degree angle "wings" are (behind the frt. wheels) is to be the strongest oval tubing, well it has the metal underskin covering it. My concern is that I don't want to punchure,dent or other wise damage it. Does anyone have any tips on how to accomplish this? Am in in the right spot for the jackstand, I believe so, what's your take?

    Thanks in advance for your inpute.

    Respectfully, Chris L.
     

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  2. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,000
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    #2 Verell, Apr 17, 2005
    When I'm lifting, I use a ~5" round block of wood on my lift pads, mostly because my rubber lift pads have slots for pinch welds & mark up the undercoating.

    If you're using jack stands, then it depends on how the tops are made. If they're pretty flat, then I wouldn't worry too much, the metal lip will just be pressed between the stand & the high point on the oval & won't deform.

    If the jack stands have some kind of upturned lip like many do, then you may want to grind one of the lips down (assuming it's cast iron), or bend it down if it's sheet metal.

    I wouldn't try to fit a block of wood on top of the jack stand, IMHO it's unsafe: too likely to slip or crack & maybe even cause the stand to jerk out of position. No fun trying to breathe with a car on your chest...
     
  3. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    11,827
    The twilight zone
    Full Name:
    The Butcher
    #3 mk e, Apr 18, 2005
    Good call.

    A couple years ago I modded a set of sheetmetal jack stands for a freind. I welded a 3.5 x 3.5 x 1 tray on top of the stand. Then he just cuts a piece of 2 x4 and drops it in. If the car has an odd shape on the bottom, he saws the block to fit. No scratching the car and no chance of the blocking sliping out.
     

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