A little history: My 1978 308 gts had been sitting in my garage for the last 27 years (I drove it for 10 plus years then just parked it) . Never started and just moved it to clean the garage. Decided to resurrect it about 6 mos ago. Did following: Changed cam timing belts, didn't change idler pulleys as they felt OK. Changed O rings in AC system. Changed AC compressor oil due to new Freon. AC works great. 45 degrees on 110 SoCa day in traffic. Changed engine, oil and filter as well as trans axle oil . Made adapter to pre-oil engine. (It had to be pretty dry inside) Changed the plugs to iridium. Changed fuel pump, fuel filter and all fuel lines. Tanks were clean only screen filter inside tank deteriorated. Changed the vacuum lines. (Its a Calif car) Not, however the brake vacuum booster line. Cleaned all four carbs No new parts just cleaning. Amazingly even the accelerator pumps still work. Have never loosened or reset the throttle blades. New battery of course. Synced and adjusted the carbs. Flushed brakes. Reinstalled R2 points with micro switch and set timing per manual. Reinstalled smog pump. Put a set of used cats on as mine had the media broken out. Adjusted clutch per Birdman. New tires (kind of flat spotted after siting for 27 years). Changed oil pressure sending unit. Passed Ca smog with flying colors. (guy tested it twice as he didn't trust the 1st test) Fixed some minor electrical glitches and repaired fuse block. Changed water pump (should have done it when I did the belts but O well) Everything works except it was breaking up above 4500 rpm. Figured it was the points. So I installed a Pertronix 9MR-183 in the rear distributor and that cleared up the high speed breaking up. Am running the original coils without the resisters. Tach works fine. Now for the problem. I set the timing as 34 degrees BTC at 5K per the manual which put the idle timing at about 10 degrees. (Yeah I know its supposed to be 7 but that's where it comes out. It was idling a little fast so I went back and synced and readjusted the carbs. Three of them are perfect at about 3.5 + KG, however the drivers side rear is about 6.5 KG and won't close any more. The idle screw on the rear carbs is all the way out and 6.5 is as low as it will go. Idle speed is a heavy 1K. (faster than I like and faster then when the R2 points were in it). I can put pressure on the LR Carb linkage and it closes further but still not enough and can't be adjusted any more anyway. So I'm wondering if the brake vacuum booster or vacuum line could be leaking and causing the high reading. I guess I could try blocking it off as a quick check. I could retard the timing 3 or 4 degrees which would probably slow the idle enough that I could readjust the carbs to equal the air flow but feel I shouldn't have to. Just looking for ideas as to why the LR carb won't close or if it is closed why is it still flowing so much air. Thanks Barry FYI this site, Birdman's and other misc sites are a God send.