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Another AC thread

Discussion in '348/355' started by bayferrari, Aug 28, 2019.

  1. bayferrari

    bayferrari Karting
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    Mar 10, 2011
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    Hi all,
    Have a 1991 348 TS and I'm trying to get the AC working. When car was in for major service 3 years ago the tech working on he car said the compressor would was shot, system wouldn't hold a charge. Also converting it to 134a. Have purchased a new receiver/dryer p/n 33363, and a set of Viton green o rings to replace old (black ) O-rings. I'm a bit confused on compressor p/n, I've been looking at Sandon/Sankyo SD709 for the replacement, is this the correct one? Trying to keep the cost down. Also wondering if I should replace the expansion valve, have a p/n 154276 for that. The search for that part has come up very costly, is there a cheaper alternate?
    Any help appreciated.
     
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  3. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior
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    Sandy
  4. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic Formula 3
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  5. pnicholasen

    pnicholasen Formula 3

    Jan 14, 2011
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    Just remove the old compressor and check the part #. I did mine and it turned out it was the same unit used in Caterpillar vehicles. I paid somewhere in the $160 range for it (of course the official Ferrari part was $$$$), but you do have to swap the clutch. You will also need the correct oil (PAG as I recall). The new compressor should have instructions on how much oil to add. It is pretty easy to get to after you remove the right rear wheel fender liners. I think there was a big oil pipe near it I had to move out of the way too. Then you'll need to vacuum down the system ( after you change out the dryer) and then make sure the system will hold that vacuum for an hour or 2 to ensure there are no other leaks.

    Sent from my VS990 using FerrariChat.com mobile app
     
  6. carlo348

    carlo348 Rookie

    Jan 20, 2014
    33
    If you go for the 6 rib, it's not absolutely necessary to swap your 5 rib over. Itll run your belt fine on it, but just has an overlap of the 1 rib. Mine got changed 8 years ago and works perfectly

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
     
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  8. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic Formula 3
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    You are right. The 6th rib (compared to the 5-rib pulley) is added towards the compressor body and the first 5 ribs, from the front of the pulley, are in the same location as on the 5-rib pulley. So, the 5-rib belt should be engaged leaving the 6th rib (closest to the compressor body) unused.
     
  9. bayferrari

    bayferrari Karting
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    Thanks for the replies. I've purchased the 6 rib compressor and it will be here next week.
    The receiver dryer showed up today. Compared to the original it looks like an exact fit. My question is about the switch mechanism, center port. Will it just thread off the old unit? The new one just has a threaded cap on it. Old unit fitting is very tight, does it just need a good hard twist to get it off or do I need some sort of adapter.
    Thanks again do the help.
     
  10. Carmellini

    Carmellini Formula Junior

    Jul 16, 2019
    434
    make sure you replace the expansion valve as well
     
  11. bayferrari

    bayferrari Karting
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    Can only find the expansion valve at a very high price, is there a cheaper alternative, it costs more than the compressor.
     
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  13. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic Formula 3
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    The BMW E30 (https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-11113-64511466259-genuine-bmw-part/) and Mercedes (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-rein-parts/a-c-expansion-valve-priced-each/1268300284~ren/) look very similar (but I don't know whether their ports are the same size as on the 348 one). Turner no longer have the E30 valves but you can check other sites or Ebay.
     
  14. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Rookie
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  15. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic Formula 3
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    The Expansion valves for BMW E30 and Mercedes I have shown in the links in my earlier post are the same. There is a universal valve suitable for BMW/MB - EX9441C by UAC (Mansfield, TX) which is sold at as little as about $10. The application and details of this valve are on the pic below.

    Its port sizes are shown as "20.5 FIOR" etc. I could not find out what "FIOR" stands for but it seems that it means the internal diameter at the threaded portion of the valve port in millimetres. The suction ports are the same, 20.5, and the "liquid" ports are 13.5 and 17. So, if the inner diameters of the 348's valve are same as shown for the EX9441C, i.e. if the suction (thicker) pipes on the 348 have the same diameter, it is likely that this valve will be suitable.

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  16. bayferrari

    bayferrari Karting
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    Okay, thanks for all the info and doing the legwork to find the correct valve. Ill go ahead and purchase one of the specified valves and see if I fits. at those prices I can afford it. Stay tuned and thanks again.
     
  17. pnicholasen

    pnicholasen Formula 3

    Jan 14, 2011
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    I may be a heretic, but when my compressor started leaking, I just did the compressor and dryer, not the expansion valve. If your compressor destroyed itself and sent metal shavings through the system, that would require a replacement. For a leaky compressor? Maybe not. My system did fine without valve replacement.
    FOR EVERYBODY: DON'T FORGET TO LOOK INSIDE THAT AIR INLET IN YOUR FRONT AIR DAM. YOUR A/C CONDENSER IS IN THERE AND IT'S EASY TO PICK UP LEAVES AND OTHER DEBRIS THAT WILL DRASTICALLY REDUCE THE FUNCTION OF YOUR A/C. LOOK ALL THE WAY UP IN THERE WITH A FLASHLIGHT. IT'S DEEP AND DARK

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  18. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic Formula 3
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    William is converting to R134 and this is the reason he is looking for an R134 Expansion Valve, not because the original (R12) valve is faulty. As I understand, the R134 expansion valves have different "opening curve" than the R12 ones, i.e. the R134 valves open somewhat more to compensate for the lower cooling efficiency of the R134 refrigerant.
     
  19. Carmellini

    Carmellini Formula Junior

    Jul 16, 2019
    434
    of course, the fitment of the TEV is critical, but the internal calibration of the valve is even more critical. you can end up with a properly fitting valve, that will not allow for proper center vent temps. you may want to contact Egelhof and ask their tech dept.
     
  20. bayferrari

    bayferrari Karting
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    Received the EX9441C valve from Pelican, very close but no cigar. Looks like one of the ports is a larger size, have the old valve out.
    I think I am in over my head on finding a matching aftermarket valve. I see that Ferrparts in Sacramento area has one for sale, thinking of going with them.
     
  21. rob.kruiswijk

    rob.kruiswijk Formula Junior

    Jun 15, 2014
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    Since you are doing things yourself, you can easily let someone rebuild your old compressor with new sealings and fill the compressor with 210cc R134a complaint PAG oil. I did the R143a conversion myself two years ago including replaced all o-rings and installed a R143a compliant expansion valve.
    The good thing is that your tubes are already R143a compliant on a 1991 348 TS.
    I also cleaned everything to get rid of the old oil which is not compliant with R134a
     
  22. bayferrari

    bayferrari Karting
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    Im getting very frustrated trying to get my ac going. Cannot find right size shrader valve for receiver, dryer. Ordered one but the thread pitch to body of rec, dryer don't match.. The BMW expansion valve part # EX9441C does not fit. One port on new valve is considerably larger than the original port. (its the hard line on top by hat,). Compressor received from abilenemachine sales from link above both ports are the wrong size. It came as part # AMX10129. Thought Id try to swap the back casing but unit internals are completely different.
    I'm sending the compressor back if they will take it. Anybody have these problems matching up parts?
    Nw im think of having compressor rebuilt.
     
  23. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior
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    #20 Koenig1, Sep 10, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2019
    As I stated early in your thread.... go to polarbearinc.com.. I am using their compressor as well as their drier. I had to send a pic of my Drier fittings as the girl on the other end stated there were 2 or 3 fitting match-ups, and didn't want to guess at my description. Both came a day later, drier and compressor fit and blows COLD. I think the total was $40(drier) $380 for compressor... hard to beat!!! If you look there is an option to purchase a Sandon compressor, but more $$$. They are out of Florida, and delivery was to Ft Myers.
     
  24. bayferrari

    bayferrari Karting
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    Compressor received from polarbear, exact fit, excellent. Also got a expansion valve for 134a costly. Here's the part number on the valve, Egelhof TCD2.Part # 320305S, internet search shows available. Still working on getting vacuum check and recharge done. Will post back on final results.
     
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  25. bayferrari

    bayferrari Karting
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    Mar 10, 2011
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    Continuing to work on AC. I have installed new receiver dryer, new expansion valve and new compressor. Removed all old seals and have replaced with new green 134a compliant seals. Pulled a vacuum on system, vacuum holds, no leaks. Tried to charge system thru low pressure side, no go. Refrigerant will not transfer from bottle to ac system. I can't seem to get refrigerant into system. Any suggestions. Car was running with ac on low temp and fan turning. Needs further troubleshooting. Does the condenser fan need to be running for refrigerant to transfer? Could a bad sensor be causing the system to not charge? Do I have a block? Any help would be appreciated.
     
  26. Carmellini

    Carmellini Formula Junior

    Jul 16, 2019
    434
    how long did you pull vacuum? did you pull using microns gauge? are you using 20 lb. can or small auto parts cans?
     
  27. bayferrari

    bayferrari Karting
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    Pulled vacuum for 2 plus hours, and used 14 ounce can, auto store bought.
     
  28. Carmellini

    Carmellini Formula Junior

    Jul 16, 2019
    434
    not sure how you pulled the vacuum, but auto zone has loaner vacuum pumps. after a system has been open, I vacuum down overnight using a micron gauge. and let sit for a hour or so to see that you have no leaks, also recommend using a 20 lb. can. often those small cans do not have the pressure required to induce an initial charge. a refrigerant scale is important to accurately measuring how much R134a you are administering. remember that you will not be using the R12 fill levels. I would start with 80% of R12, and slowly add more if your gauges are not at proper levels. probably a max of 90%. sounds like you are doing a good job, and are on the back nine. certain you will have ice cold AC soon!
     
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