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Attn: Phil Hughes "ferrarifixer"... 308 Fuel pump

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Peter, Dec 23, 2003.

  1. Peter

    Peter F1 Veteran
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Dec 21, 2000
    6,340
    B.C., Canada
    #1 Peter, Dec 23, 2003
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    A few months ago, you posted some comments in a thread of mine in the old FC Tech Column:

    [url="http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/112/339835.html?1067445445]"308 (GT4) fuel pump"[/url]

    You had suggested inserting crushed brake pipe into the carb return hose to maintain higher line pressure. Makes sense, but I thought of another way of doing it. I removed the carb banjo bolt/return fitting and plugged it up using solder, then drilled a 1mm hole in the centre (stock size of 1.8mm). This should work the same, should it?
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  2. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
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    Jul 22, 2003
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    Yes. Nice permanent fix.

    The restrictor method is nice as a removable temporary method leaving no evidence of ever being used if removed later on. The plating on the banjo's tend to go bad if you heat them, but if they are bad anyway, then it's ok.

    Make sure your pump is a reciprocating type with idle capability now, or you'll over pressure the system with a standard rotary vane type.
     
  3. Peter

    Peter F1 Veteran
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    Dec 21, 2000
    6,340
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    I was going to weld it shut, but decided to solder it. Should hold just fine and involves very low temps, can be removed by applying soldering heat. Didn't discolour the bolt, but was not pretty to start with (gold-cad plating long gone).

    Works fine, did a test drive today and no problems. Yes, I've got a Facet Blue Top in there now, as the original Corona rotary-vane was NFG. Like Matt Lemus mentioned in that old thread, these pumps are loud!
     
  4. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
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    Make sure the pump is correctly mounted using the rubber blocks WITH the internal SPACERS fitted, and a separate earthing lead fitted. It's a commom mistake to either rigid mount, or miss out the spacers in the rubber mounts. This will make sure the pump is nice and quiet.

    Blue top??? Red top is the usual one, (can't remember the spec, but blue sounds like it may be a lower delivery volume than red....)
     
  5. Peter

    Peter F1 Veteran
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    Dec 21, 2000
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    #5 Peter, Dec 28, 2003
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Yep, I've got the thing mounted on the rubber grommets/blocks with the internal spacers to keep the bolts from crushing the rubber. Plus the separate earth hooked up. Its still loud, but I'm getting used to it.

    Yes, the Red is the usual, but the Blue puts out the same volume and pressure as the Red. Besides, it was cheaper at Demon Tweeks :) I had other non-Ferrari stuff I had to get from them anyways, so I ordered the pump at the same time.

    The final set-up:
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  6. pcelenta

    pcelenta Karting

    Nov 1, 2003
    216
    is a fuel pump regulator required with the facet pumps...I am currently running a holley red pump with a regulator...which doesn't seem to work as well as the original corona...particularly in the 3500 rpm transition point of the webers...wondering how well the facet pumps work.
     
  7. pma1010

    pma1010 F1 Rookie
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    Peter
    Why did you replace the original style fuel filter with the Baldwin? Sorry if I am late in the thread/you've dealt with this before but I am curious. Your work (as always) looks beautiful.

    You might consider zip tying the hose from the pump to the filter to the tank - filter line. While unlikely, you don't want anything to hook onto your hoses and have one pull off/be severed by an errant rock or similar.
    Philip
     
  8. Peter

    Peter F1 Veteran
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    Dec 21, 2000
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    Apparently, no regulator is needed when running a Facet pump (based on the experiences of the people who use these pumps and who posted in that first thread I started). I just used Phil's suggestion of reducing the return line/banjo bolt and everything has been running fine with mine.
     
  9. Peter

    Peter F1 Veteran
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    Dec 21, 2000
    6,340
    B.C., Canada
    It was one thing led to another. In the past, when the Corona pump would crap-out and I'd need to remove it, or if I was going to change the filter I'd always have to pinch the hose and I never trusted that method (could let go and damages the hose). So, I figured if I install a cut-off valve just after the tank, I could do whatever without draining the tanks. Fine. But no matter what combination of valve, fitting, or hose arrangement I chose, I just could not install a valve inbetween the tank and the stock filter set-up. I was frustrated and I wasn't going to let it defeat me... I was determined to have a valve in there! I felt that if I didn't do it and it came time to do work there again, I'd curse myself for not carrying through installing one.

    The first time I drained the tanks on this car a few years ago, I spilt a couple of gallons and nearly blew my house up... I am paranoid with this! If I can avoid spilling a drop while servicing this system, I'll sleep better at night.

    I like Baldwin products, they are well-made and very reasonably priced. Besides I can get them much quicker at my supplier than if I order F-parts. While doing an oil change I can change the fuel filter at the same time. Looking up their online catalogue and consulting with one of their Tech Rep's, led me to this set-up. Normally used in diesel applications, BF592 is perfectly safe for gasoline (except ethanol blends) and the base (FB1301) is made for it. Nice and easy, plug-and-play.

    And I get to use my freakin' cut-off valve! Now, if I need to change the filter (there's also a filter in the pump too), all I do is flip the valve lever, remove a plug under the filter base and catch a small amount of fuel in a container, then I can do whatever... In minutes. This involved alot of work and time now, but it saves me more for the future. Modifying the car to suit my needs. I have the original filter set-up in a box, for a future owner...

    Besides, it doubles as a simple security device if I park in a suspect area (but since this is on the web now, not much of a secret anymore...).


    Will do.
     
  10. pcelenta

    pcelenta Karting

    Nov 1, 2003
    216
    does anyone know the facet part number for the red top and its specifications psi,gph ?

    Peter, the specs for the blue top are 6.5 to 7.5 psi...seems a little high for webers.

    on pegasusautoracing.com's site they list a silver top with a pressure of 4 to 5 psi.

    no red top is listed..I wonder if it has been replaced by the above.

    regards,
    Paul
     
  11. Peter

    Peter F1 Veteran
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    Dec 21, 2000
    6,340
    B.C., Canada
    Paul, the Red Top puts out:

    35 gal./hr @ 6.5 - 7.25psi (same as the Blue).

    Yes, the pressure seems high, but I haven't experienced any over-pressuring/flooding problems yet, even when the car is idling/driving slowly for a prolonged period of time.
     

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