Automotive Wax doesn't hurt diecast paint...

Discussion in 'Collectables, Literature, & Models' started by F40, Feb 8, 2004.

  1. F40

    F40 F1 Rookie

    Apr 16, 2003
    #1 F40, Feb 8, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Lastnight I was bored and found that my F150 Harley Davidson was uber dusty and dirty, so I washed the body with soapy water, and put a bit of turtle wax on my finger, then waxed the hood, roof, and bed cover... It turned out rather nicely, I was able to take a picture without the flash in the dark, thanks to the reflection of my recessed model lamp on the paint.
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  3. aawil

    aawil Formula 3

    Aug 10, 2002
    Full Name:
    I use that spray bottle car wax that I found a pain for cars to work quite well on models.Puts a nice shine on them.
  4. jelmer

    jelmer Karting

    Nov 20, 2003
    Full Name:
    J vd H
    and now something for the window!!
  5. TheScarletStang

    TheScarletStang Formula Junior

    Feb 7, 2004
    Irvine, California
    Full Name:
    Sean Salter
    all i use is windex and a soft tissue to clean the paint on my diecasts, I always have a good time for some reason when i clean the model my friends always notice how clean they look.......I think i will use car wax next time
  6. F40

    F40 F1 Rookie

    Apr 16, 2003
    Try a little area first to see if it will damage the paint though.
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  8. Mule

    Mule F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Jun 25, 2003
    Full Name:
    Diecast Hygiene:


    1. Soft white cotton gloves – for when handling the model.


    1. 1-inch camelhair brush – general purpose dusting.
    2. Large rounded pencil style brush – for detail work on interior areas.
    3. A brush generally found with electric razors – for the cleaning of dried waxes in hard to reach places.


    1. Little battery powered vacuums – found at computer stores.
    2. 1-foot oxygen bubble tubing – found at health supply store.


    1. 100% soft cotton rags – Art supply houses offer rolls of 100% cotton wipes.
    2. Small pieces of flannel.
    3. Brass instrument polishing cloth – by Selmer. Available at any music store. For periodic dusting. They are treated with a light wax.


    1. Use only polishes recommended for use on clear coats.
    2. Final Inspection by Meguiars – Dip a Q-tip into film container holding some solution. Blot off any excess and gently apply to surface. Avoid raised edges and silver painted areas as these can easily rub through. The solution dries to a fine haze. Then wipe the haze away using 100% cotton cloth, wrapped around your index finger. Light gentle pressure will get the haze off.
    3. Dry Wash and Guard by Enviro-Tech International – A dry-wash product that contains paint friendly polymers. Rub it on, let it haze and then wipe it off.
    4. Novus – Another good polish that comes in 3 concentrations. Novices should use #1 and #2.
    5. Tamiya Model Car Polish – It is non-abrasive and will not remove the chrome from plastic parts.

    1. Bare Metal Plastic Polish – It dissolves glue marks (including Super Glue) and polishes the paint underneath.
    2. Super Glue remover. CAUTION!! Be careful using super glue remover...especially debonder. It may very easily remove paint!
    3. Contractors Solvent – may damage paint use it only carefully.
    4. GooGone – Works fast and easy to remove sticky film and soft glue marks off painted surfaces. Available at Target and Home Depot.

    1. Use only waxes recommended for use on clear coats.
    2. Carnauba wax – Non-abrasive wax for final waxing. It’s applied with Q-tips and then gently wiped off. Use the same guidelines for waxing. Avoid high spots and silver painted trim. Also, avoid mirrors, photo-etched parts and the edges of chrome body trim.
    3. The Treatment – Carnauba paste wax. Applied with Q-tips.
    4. Pledge – The spray can variety. Spray into a small container then apply with Q-tips, then buff out with cotton cloth.
    5. Eagle One – Wet not paste. Apply thin coat of wax with damp cloth. Remove wax with dry cotton cloth.


    1. Cyanoacrylate glue (Super Glue).
    2. For clear items, seek out a jeweler and ask for some watch crystal cement.
    3. For clear items, I use Testors Cement for Plastic Models. Testors works ok - I just don't care for the long set up time of the strings it forms.
    4. Epoxy glue – 5 minute clear.
    5. Thin bent wire (paperclip) – to apply glue.
    6. Toothpick – to apply glue.

    GMP and Meguiars teamed up to make a diecast detail kit that comes with all the products you need to do the job. Even comes with instructions. The kit can be purchased here: Meguiars Detail Kit

    I would do things in this order:

    1. Dust with a feather duster first
    2. Fine detail dust with a camels hair brush
    3. Use a polish to get the shine you like
    4. Use wax to preserve

    *Most of this information came from George B as well as other sources.
  9. rr1973

    rr1973 Formula Junior

    Nov 1, 2003
    DieCast Collector
    Full Name:
    Ramon Ramirez
    Excellent Mule Thanks !!
  10. Greg G

    Greg G F1 Rookie

    forget all the hyperbole about diecast car finishes. I have approx 250 models now and I always use Pledge furniture spray wax. I spray it onto a cloth first to apply with better control. It makes not only the paint look better than new, it does wonders for the plastic windows, AND somehow repels dust to boot. Try it - you wont be sorry!
  11. Mule

    Mule F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Jun 25, 2003
    Full Name:
    I didn't write it, just copied it. I don't do nearly that. Actually most of my models are Minichamps and have a clear box over them. The 1:18's, I just hit with the compressed air duster every now and then. I have even done the quick shirt tail polish. Seems a lot of them need wiped off when they come out of the box, especially where the clear plastic strips that hold doors and hoods are.
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  13. rr1973

    rr1973 Formula Junior

    Nov 1, 2003
    DieCast Collector
    Full Name:
    Ramon Ramirez
    I have a Meguiars Kit and its excellent !!!

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