Boss's Mondial-T has a $14k bill one week after purchase!

Tires definately...and most of the rest of the repairs, as well.

Maybe skip the belly pan......unless it drags the ground......

A PPI may or may not have impacted the deal, you'd still need to make these fixes. Welcome to the world of deferred maintenance, it was easier to sell it!

I'd pursue a clean bill of health on the car and consider it 'growing pains'.
It should go a while, once these are done.....

 

take it to Bill Pollard 40 minutes N in Gaylordsville CT & he will take a few $1000 off that price 860-350-1515. Tell him I sent you

 

Well, they are Dealership labor rates I'm sure. Miller is an authorized dealer, IIRC.

The plugs in the tire SEVERELY undermine the speed rating. I've had to plead with a tire tech or two in my day to 'keep it rolling' but from their perspective it's very risky. The impression is us Ferrari owner's drive 180 mph ALL the time. If it's just a grocery getter, then wear 'em on down but DO NOT forget and do 'a few' track laps! A 'plug' is not the same as the 'mushroom patch' applied from inside the tire.

Can he break this down into 'right now' and 'later'??? I mean if the car is stored indoors, why worry about weather seals?

Leaking seals around the clutch can be very bad news.. the windows, as you noted, probably just need some attention and fresh grease..

 

There you go!

An independent, referred by a knowledgable Owner.......try them!

The dealerships have a very high overhead, and a smaller shop is often competitive......

Thanks WILLIAM!

How was Metallica?????????

 

Metallica was great I really just went to hear SANDMAN which they did play. Good show

AS for the weather seals, wait till spring

 

Is he handy? He could eliminate a lot of those costs by shopping parts and doing the work himself...I am currently doing a clutch job on my car which includes the following (I have a 348...same motor)
1.) Resurfacing the clutch plates with kevlar
2.)Resurfacing the flywheel
3.)Repacking the flywheel
4.)Replacing the triple seals in the bell housing
5.)New throw-out bearing (this is leaking brake fluid which is possibly the same leak you have)

Would not want to know what this would cost from a dealer...Im not the handiest guy in the world...but these cars are relatively easy to work on.(at least certain things)

The only thing I would replace NOW is the clutch leak..Everything else, I would shop parts and find a mechanic that I trust to put them on or do it myself.
Actually, the tires maybe too depending on his driving habits as others have stated.
The other things...
I doubt he is planning to drive his Mondial Cab in the rain
Who cars if the bellypan is dented now, this would have been a bigger deal during PPI because it would have raised eyebrows that the car might have been ran off the road. I would only replace if it is dragging...
Not sure about the shock sensor light...I will let someone else answer that..

 

At first glance, (1) (4) and (5) seem like "right now" fixes, while the rest can be deferred till you find a reputable, but more cost-effective, mechanic. Be sure to get Ed (Ed P.), Sam (sjmst) and Tom (Tom B) to weigh in. They are all Mondial owners, and would be able to provide a good perspective.

 

Rob
I dont have a 'T' but here goes...

1. This light is unique to the 'T' so honestly not sure. However if it is simply a light coming on for no reason your call on is it worth it.

2.Rubberstripping could probably fix your self. Maybe even source another brand/make. Brand new Mondial 'T' cabs leaked im sure through the first rainfall, so how much diffrence does it make!?

3. Leave it alone/fix as needed. No one will see this. Worst case scenario you could have one made for a few hundred, tops installed.

4. Depends on two things. First driving style. Will owner drive like it a Ferrari or Sunday driver? Where are the plugs? if in sidewall thats a no-no, and must be replaced.
Ok three things i guess. The age of the tires. Common for the tires to go 'bad' by age before wear.
Look at tires sidewall for DOT followed by three or four numbers that is the date of manufacture. If they are more than five years old replace anyway.
The last two numbers are the year made.

5. Clutch. Fix this immediately

6. Avoid Miller if you can.

Good luck.

Dave

 

Shock absorber light on - Why what does it indicate? If it indicates a bad shock a replace ment can't be $1,700 bucks. I would get more info.

Tires are cheap and can be bought from Tirerack and put on by numerous places on LI.

Does the engine come out on a T for servicing, I thought not. Are T clutches hydrolic or cable activated? If hydro then maybe it's the slave cylinder. If it's cable then IMO a clutch should be $1,500 for a complete clutch - PP, Disk and throwout bearing also when you are in this far replace the rear main seal in the engine it will be very cheap and a good preventitive step for the future.

Cosmetics are cosmetics and I would look for much cheaper suppliers of these parts and have a competent body person put them in.

Get a second opinion, even if it's at another dealer. I would think the new place in Jersey is looking for customers for the future and might offer a deal.

 

When I purchased my T a few years ago, the front left shock was making a slight noise - no light on dashboard however. Turns out the shock was going bad and need to be replaced. I went ahead and replaced both - you really need to do both at the same time (car had 24K miles at the time). Parts and labor from Ferrari of Washington > $1700. Handling improved tremendously.
A couple of years later, the rears went (32K miles) and this time I purchased shocks from Pozzi in Paris while on holiday and had installed locally by small raceshop; Parts and labor > $1400.
Bottom line here: it's the parts that are expensive. Labor varies from dealer to independent but in hinsight could have done the job myself. It's that easy.
Having said all that, it could just be the sensor that's bad hence the light comes on. I would check (or have a qualified mechanic) the shocks first. Bad shocks really affect the car's handling and are just unsafe IMHO.
Good luck!

 

Just wondering if was one of those great bargain deal that was so good that he just couldn't say no to?

 

FYI, if the rear window motors are bad, that is a big deal. If they're just slow, well, I would hold off on replacing them until you absolutely have to (since he already owns the car!). The parts are spendy and the labor to get them in and out is horrendous.

Before doing too much, clean up the switches and the contacts.

Also, if the car has been sitting, many of the small electrical issues you may have will go away after some use.

In general, Mondials are expensive cars to fix-- and the lower the purchase price the more fixing you can expect to do. I would never buy one without a PPI.

 

Bob,
Sounds like he's being viewed as a "typical , wealthy, mechanically inept, in- awe-of-Ferrari" owner by Miller. Independents are a little cheaper on the labor rate than are dealers but they keep the car way longer. Dealers have more than one mechanic. Honesty is the biggest thing. Justin at Wide World of Cars is very honest and will discuss the need - to - perform each item and not lump all the work together. On the other hand, if your boss is a "typical" Ferrari owner and will sleep better at night by knowing his Ferrari is being tucked in every night at a dealer in Greenwich, CT----he may be better off. Whatever makes him happy. Not making a value judgement-----different strokes for different folks....and all that.

I've run rear tires with self-installed plugs. NOTE---I AM NOT ADVOCATING THIS PRACTICE AS SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH MAY OCCUR. TRAINED PROFESSIONAL ON A CLOSED COURSE. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME.

Tom

 

the shock absorber light may indicate a failing of the electronic shock absorber control. the shock absorbers stay in "medium" mode then.
a major on a t is an engine out job.
slow windows are common, do a search here for plenty of information about it.

and italian tops always leak like seaves! get used to it and have always towels ready.

tires: i would never ever drive a bad tyre, the tyre is the contact to the street, it's your life insurance. if you drive a ferrari and you can't afford the best tyre, sell it. good year f1 eagle gsd3 is a very good tyre for mondials.