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Boxer Flashing Lamps Solution

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by jselevan, Mar 19, 2004.

  1. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 2, 2003
    1,854
    I have been struggling with a simple solution to provide more flexibility with the flasher lights. As wired from the factory, the lights are only momentary, and only when the headlights are not on.

    After a great deal of study of the schematic, and careful examination of the relay board, there was not a simple solution to allow the aforementioned functions to be bypassed. Someone had posted a solution that changed the relay connectors, but I suspect that they used the rear fog lamp switch, which also is active only when the lights are on. Furthermore, the gauge wire used for the rear fog lamps is not adequate for the current drawn by the flashing lamps. Furthermore, I did not want to wire an after-market switch and place it on the instrument pod or dash.

    With this background, here is what I believe to be a unique solution.

    I went down to the local hobby electronics shop and purchased, for $50, a UHF remote relay. The kit has 2 relays, both capable of 15 amps at 120 volts. The board is powered by a 12 volt source. The activator is radio frequency in the form of a key-chain like black plastic case (size of a 50 cent piece). There are two buttons, one for each relay. After soldering and assembling the board (took 1 hour), I can activate each relay individually. I then modified the circuit board to allow both relays to be activated by one button on the remote control. I used two relays to halve the current flowing through each one.

    I then wired the new circuit board (about the size of a business card) under the dash (or in the glove box), providing plus 12 volts for power to the board. The board draws 30 milliamps, and thus any ignition-switched source can power the board. I used the positive 12-volts available in the glove box (light). I then ran a 12 gauge conductor from the relay to one lamp (easy to hide the wire). The other (side) lamp is connected via the wiring harness. The positive voltage to the relay comes from the accessory plug under the instrument pod (left of steering column). It is important that one chooses a 12 volts source with 12 gauge wire to supply the lamps.

    Net result. The stalk system works as originally intended. However, I can now illuminate the flashers with the remote switch, which I velcro on to my steering wheel (or double sided tape, etc). When I want to illuminate the flashers continuously, or wish to flash them with the headlights on, I can do so with the remote control. Only one wire runs from the inside of the car to the lamps.

    If anyone cares for more detail, I am happy to write this up and give specifics.

    Thanks for listening.

    Jim S.
     
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