Boxer Ignition Switch

Thats possible but a simple test light attached to the trigger wire on the starter solenoid, visible from the cockpit will tell you if the starter is actually the problem or the power getting to it. My money is on the starter solenoid.

 

And had one go up in smoke!

It is a Neiman switch, identical to the one used in a BMW 2002. They are available at Bavarian Auto in Portsmouth, NH for less than $100. It's a bit of a challlenge changing the electrical portion without pulling the column lock assembly from the steering column....but it can be done.

Then again, the starter solenoid isn't much to right home about either....

Regards,
David

 

Just to be sure, make sure it is not the starter solenoid. If you do not hear anything in the back it is probably not the starter solenoid.

Mine went out several years ago. You turn the key and hear a click but no start. Keep on doing it until the points arc then it starts. If you observe this then starter solenoid, but probably not your case.

 

maybe its the muffler bearing

 

Have you checked your wrist?
Could be you're just losing the "old" snap.

 

No, its called YOUTH! lol.

 

but that sure looks like the switch....

Regards,
David

 

It's just plain lack of clear access....

The first step, often overlooked by over-exuberant pros (that's me) is to disconnect the battery. Next, either put the driver's seat all the way back, or simply remove it, as you'll likely be laying on your back looking up. Yes, this is more pain than you might think! Make sure the ignition switch, the key part, is in the "off" position, as once you get the electrical part off, you'll see that it's keyed....and really will only go in one way, once you get the notches lined up.

OK....so you're in the most uncomfortable position imagineable; now look up at you'll see the switch. It is usually held in place with two small "flat-blade" type screws. It's a bit of a tight space, but with a small screwdriver, you should be able to remove the two screws and remove the electrical part of the ignition switch. Sometimes, a little wiggle...and a gentle pry, and the switch will "pop out". Rest assured, there are no other parts than can "fall out" while you're in there.

As you will find, those "crafty Italians" did not leave much "extra wire", so you'll be swaping wires in a confined area. Swap away...and then look at the "male" notch in the remaining part of the column switch...and adjust (if necessary) the female part of the switch to align. This may not be necessary, as usually everything is already in the proper positions.

Here's the potential problem...as I haven't done this in a long time on a BB. You can see the switch, but you can't get a clear shot on those screws. Well...the fun begins as the lower trim panel (which surrounds the column and ignition switch ) needs to come off. The two rivets which hold this piece of trim in place are hidden from view by your speedometer and tachometer. So...either pull the wheel, or remove the 6/8 allen screws...or try to fanagle the gauges out without touching the steering wheel. Then the rivets can be drilled out...

Between the offset driving poition of the BB and past years with my Ducati, my back is so toasted that I'd pull the driver seat, just to get a decent view of how much, if any, disassembly really needs to be done.

Operators are standing by, in the event of technical difficulties...


Regards,
David

 

A Hudson - David's instructions are spot on. You might take a trip to your local Sears. They sell inexpensive "right angle" slotted screw drivers that will make the job much easier. I have changed a few of these switches. They are found on the Dino and the Boxer. The smoke Fastradio speaks of is a rather common failure mode. There is a mica wafer insulation within the switch that can fail, leading to a short circuit.

If you are interested in another alternative, consider introducing a simple 12-volt relay in the solenoid starter circuit. While the solenoid does not draw a great deal of current, after several failures over the years I chose to modify the switch. When I turn the key to start the car, it now activates a relay, which supplies current to the solenoid. Simple and inexpensive to do.

For those electrical engineers out there, it is akin to a Darlington pair - after all, the solenoid itself is a relay.

Jim S.

 

Is it a symptom that the switch is bad if your car will only shut off if the brake pedal is pressed in?

If I don't hold the pedal down I can turn the key and remove it while the car runs.

 

However, the second symptom is one I've seen on a few occassions that leads to smoke (and ultimately) burned wiring at the ignition switch! The dielectric (mica wafer) piece that Jim refers to above is almost "burned thru."

Regards,
David

 

My car has an MSD on it. Where did you put the ballast resistor?

Very familiar with this part from when I was into Mopar muscle. If you didn't have one of these in your glovebox you would get stranded.

 

Why are you running a ballast resistor with an MSD?

If the MSD is wired correctly, there are two "Red" wires. The large diameter one (always hot) picks up its power from the B+ terminal on one of your alternators. The other smaller "Red" wire connects to the original (yellow?) wire that is only powered when the ignition switch is on.

What am I missing here? MSD user on a BB almost 20 years...Turn key off, car turns off.

Regarding "current need" faux paux...If your powering a dual ballast resistor to somehow get power back to your MSD, I would suspect far too much current is running through the ignition switch. Tech lines are now open!

Regards,
David