Got an '87 TR. I tried to do a search first, but with light/brake & fuse included in the title the results are "endless". So here is the situation......Randomly the 15 amp fuse that protects the wipers and brake lights has started blowing. Sometimes after a 100 miles, then just backing out of the garage and then sometimes immediately after being replaced (Yes, I know that was the perfect opportunity to trace where the problem was...but I was pulled over along the highway to replace the fuse!) My questions..... Any ideas as to where or in what "logical" way I can trace this? Me and 12V automotive systems are no compatible! Anyone been in the same boat? I replaced the pedal activated switch last year......so that should be OK. I hope...or might that indeed be the culprit? It seems to be an item that either works or doesn't. Thanks for any insight..Kerry
One possibilty is that you have an intermittent short-to-ground in the (LH?) rear bonnent gas spring (they send the +12V to run the CHMSL up thru the gas spring, the yellow wire on the other rear gas spring goes to the service lights under the rear bonnet -- so if that side gets a short-to-ground flaw, fuse #13 blows if the external lights are "on") -- so the fuse #23 only blows when you get "lucky" when both events occur (i.e., short present and brake pedal pushed). One thing you can try is unplug the red wire at the base of the LH rear gas spring (and run a "loose" wire from the red wire you've removed up to the CHMSL so it still works) -- if the problem goes away, you can be pretty sure that you need to replace the gas spring; if the problem is still there, that's harder -- Good hunting!
That is a pretty common problem. The body of the strut rubs the hood and blows the fuse. We have been seeing that since 85. I just get black heat shrink tubing and coat the entire length of the strut. Cant even tell unless you look very close.
Rifle, Your saying to apply the shrink wrap to the "body" of the shock...Correct? Thanks for the insight. Kerry
DOH! Thanks David......I was trying all sorts of combinations like..... CHassis Module Systems Location and Certainly He Might Stop Looking or Crap He Might Soon Learn etc.. Kerry
Yes. Cover the entire body, or you can just put a 1 inch long piece in the needed area. I do the whole thing so it is not even noticed. If you look closely you will probably see a rub point on the body of the strut and in a very small spot the paint will be rubbed through.
Thanks Rifle...I disconnected the red wires and jumped them together. I'll start there and then ask more annoying questions if indeed it is not the problem. I must say it is very fortunate for us "other" TR owners to have the likes of you, Mr. M, Carguy, Newman, etc. here to provide these great insights into the gremlins that live in these redheads. Many thanks to all of you out there that share your experience so willingly. Hats off......Kerry
Thanks for explaining what really goes wrong Brian. My "yellow" side kept blowing fuse #13 so I just unplugged it (since it isn't a critical function), but (wrongly) thought something was wrong internal to the gas spring itself (so was procrastinating doing the fix). I just checked my TR, and the wear scar on both the bonnet edge and the RH gas spring body are clear (on the "red" side, I actually have ~ 6mm of clearance in the down position so no evidence of any contact on that side): Image Unavailable, Please Login I noticed that the lower mount for the gas spring is basically a flat triangular piece welded along the bottom edge to the chassis with the gas spring attached to the top point of the triangle -- have you ever tried bending the top point of the triangle out a few mm just to get a little more clearance or reduce the amount of rubbing on the shrink tubing after the fix?
Hey Kerry, though everyone on this board, myslef included appreciate all your knowledge and threads i must confess i have a concern. You have written many POSTs lately of issues i have never seen on TRs...as a 10+ yr owner of a TR, and know a few others that own similar early models 85-88, we have never had these concerns or questions come up "EVER" in a discussion. Maybe it wouldnt be out of line to have a pro look at it to fix it for you ? (im not trying to be a smart a$$, just an observation to help you spend more time on the road, and not under the hood) http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238053 http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235705 http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=173131 http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235501 http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235503 http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=233198 http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229886
So I need "professional" help because............ I have found a source for K relays. I would like to find a source for upgraded poly suspension bushings. I ask advice of the forum about an altenator issue. I share a quick fix for a rearveiw mirror. I ask about shock specifications. I sarcastically, question the PIA the altenator is to remove. And I have an electrical issue with my brake lighting, and so I post and get answers and solutions. First Red, you again are spending too much time "tracking" my activity. You have done this in the past and were able to get me booted off the Forum a while back because I did not "goose step" to your ideals off the forum, out of the "publics" veiw....privately. You got your feelings hurt and were in a position of power (moderator at the time) and you booted me off the BBS. If I am causing you distress because I think outside the box, excellent! I obiviously dislike you and, (here I go exposing myself to another of your possible online gestapo tactics, let the banning begin) I must aggresively disagree with you Red...........You are an Ass and not a smart one I might add. And as long as we're talking getting professional help...........you may indeed need some intervention. Now back to our regularly scheduled program........discussing, questioning, improving and maintaining Ferrari TR models, here on the FerrariChat BBS. Kerry P.S. Red wait till you see the thread I am going to start in a few days concerning, questioning how to locate and test certain sensors in order to resolve an idling issue!!!!!
Kerry, Dont misunderstand me....this is not my intention at all......(though you can do without the name calling) These threads you do though are things i have never encountered, or even heard of with other owners. Its not a slam, its an enquiry more than anything as to why dont read more into it ..... Cheers !
I was already a long time, experienced Ferrari mechanic when these cars were introduced in late 1985 so I probably have more experience with them than most of the people here put together and you cannot be more wrong. The troubles he has experienced are not unusual and several of his posts you cite are about modifying the car or sourcing different, better, or more easily obtained parts. WTF has any of that got to do with your post? You are off base....a long way off base and if the 2 of you have some history take it somewhere else.
No I have not. Most of the problems I have seen are a result of something flexing and in any case it only affects a few cars. I also figured at the rate of wear the heat shrink would likely out last us all. If you try the relocation fix let us know what you did and how it works.
Just seems that he is chasing issue after issue...thats what it has to do with my post. If im wrong , then thats fine. History aside...which is not an issue .... all these posts or otherwise issues, in 10 yrs is news to me. A Mirror ??? How is this falling apart ?? Simple quesiton.
Maybe Giacomo left it loose? How the Hell should I know? What I do know is I have personally fixed at least 30 of them. Give us all a break, just because your car is perfect and never breaks and Terry has a few issues, just what is the big F'ing deal? You are still out of line. Go be a tough guy somewhere else.
I never said my car is perfect....what the is wrong with you guys lately ?? Since when did you guys have a right to voice a point of view or observation moreso than anyone else ?.....it was just an observation thats all. You and Kerry can do as you wish. Geez
If this isn't the right place to post problems for your TR then tell us where is? If someone posts problems he's having with his F-car every single day and is requesting some help, what's wrong with that? Go find something else to whine about.
Dear Ferraristi, .....oh boy.... My TR must really love my hands all over her. Everytime I fix something, something else breaks. You're not alone Kerry! Steve M, See if your hood is aligned properly. Even though it doesn't have to come off for a major in a Testarossa....some shops take it off anyway. You can realign the engine cover so it doesn't rub. Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice !
Kerry.....I had an issue similar to yours on my 89 Testarossa. I re-alligned the engine deck lid and the problem went away. I never thought to look closely at the struts and the rub points...I seem to have fixed my problem by osmosis. As for Big Red...he and I have traded a few comments, but he is a valuable member of fchat. He has lots of history and knowledge. He and I have exchanged a few "heated" words between us, but we have always maintained our mutual respect for each other. He contributes a lot to fchat.... One thing is for sure, when you post on a public forum, every word you say is "forever". Later on...if you decide that maybe you were hasty or made a rash comment - it's too late. Bottom Line: we are all human, and make occasional slips and mistakes. As for Kerry personally, I will admit he and I have had some harsh words about some issues in the past, but they were simply differences of opinion. As for the "man".....I'm in his corner, he has really stirred the pot in the TR section of fchat, and made people think outside the normal guidelines. I've found him to be the ultimate alternative-finder, a guy who thinks creatively, and finds solutions to problems many of us "purists" wouldn't think of. Okay...I've tipped my hand now....you all know where I stand. I consider myself fortunate to know him...and I'll leave it at that. Kerry....also check out those G.M. light sockets at the back...perhaps there is an occasional short....? (Yes...there is a G.M. light socket that will fit the TR rear tail light housing with a bit of effort) I think I still have some out in my shop somewhere. They can replace the old, brittle, and usually broken TR tail light sockets.
Great info...........because i do have some issues with those sockets. I thought they looked familiar. So far the problemk appears to have gone away, since by-passing the strut. a few more days and miles and if the fuse stays intact I believe with Rifle's insight I may have found the gremlin. Kerry
I can't fault the engine cover alignment as it lines up very well on the outside with the rest of the coachwork. My guess is that this is just a case of where they got pushed into a tight packaging corner, and the nominal clearance is less than the possible combined tolerance stack-up (and there are a lot of non-precision parts in the foodchain from the chassis to the bonnet edge) -- so some are OK, and some are not. And what about any visual evidence of contact -- is there a noticeable wear scar on the gas spring body in a corresponding position to the one on my "yellow" side?
Just to continue this thread, I did bend the small triangular gusset on my TRs's RH side to bring it into symmetry with the LH side a couple of years ago (moving it 6~8 mm outward IIRC), and it did eliminate the unwanted contact/shorting problem. I'd bet every TR chassis may be somewhat different on either side, but there seems to be no downside to moving the lower mounting ball outwards as much as possible (without looking obviously "tweaked") as that only adds clearance between the gas spring body and the rear bonnet edge: Image Unavailable, Please Login This winter, my rear bonnet gas springs had finally gotten weak enough to be dangerous (i.e., not strong enough to hold up the rear bonnet at ~55 deg F), so I just replaced them: Force to compress (at ~65 deg F): Old RH = ~62 lbs Old LH = ~53 lbs New LH & RH = 83~85 lbs (marked 320N = ~72 lbs on the body) F PN = 61498100 (the one with the electrical spade connectors used on both sides of a US version TR) Sachs Stabilus Lift-O-Mat SG337001
Yep, I had a similar problems and found the answer in the struts. I generally hate working on a car electrical since it usually involves being either a skinny midget or sadistic. I'm not a midget at 6'1" and 220 lbs and 64 years old, but I still get under the dash, just much harder to get out. John
