brake rotor removal

Hi WaltP,

The rotor has two rim indexing studs that need to be removed and then the rotor should come off. It will be, most probably, stuck in place with all the rust and brake dust cacked on. I have used penetrating fluid and a some gentle (but firm) tapping all around to break it loose. Once it breaks it will come off easily.

By the way, I assume you have the caliper out of the way...

Gianluca

 

With the two retaining pins removed (and the caliper out of the way), turn the rotor 1/4 turn and whack the backside with a rubber mallet. Turn 1/4 and repeat until it comes off. (really)

 

It may also help if you de-adjust the handbrake shoes - this is done by inserting a screwdriver in the hole in the disc face and turning the brass adjuster so that it releases the brake shoes inside the rotor.

MW

 

No such thing on a 308.

 

Ricrain,

Thanks for correcting me - my mistake I was thinking of a 328

MW

 

Whack repeatedly with a hammer and a piece of wood. Whack until you are blue in the face, and then whack some more. Curse at the guy who did not use anti-sieze before you. And then swear to use anti-sieze up on reassembly.

The two rotors took me two days.

Ricrain = Ric Rainbolt? Are you back ? Or, just a temporary respite from the brass ring?

 

it will help you if you sand top of bearing housing to get it out the rest of the way

 

..for my 1977 308. I just purchased new front and rear rotors and calipers, along with a brake bleeder.

I'm going to do the job myself, but I'll start with the fronts only. I'm still in search of a park brake solution, so I'll keep the rears stock for now....

My kit consists of 4-piston Wilwoods, 12 5/8" front rotors, 12" rear rotors, pads, SS lines, and a Tilton brake bias adjuster. (I have 17" Speedlines). I need to know:

1) Any special tools required to remove the rotors? Hub removal tool?
How exactly is it done?

2) If I only replace the fronts, do I need to bleed all 4 calipers? Should I remove ALL brake fluid? Or just get all I can out of the fronts only.. My fluid is only 11 months old.

3) Should I use anti-seize compound upon installing new rotors?

4) I haven't torn down the rear yet, but I've heard of some 308s having caliper mount holes on both the front AND rear of the upright. This would be great, enabling me to install the new rear caliper to the FRONT of the rear rotor, and mount a small mechanical park brake caliper in the stock location. I would welcome any suggestions on how to achieve a park brake solution on a 308 with aftermarket rear calipers.....!

5) Any advice on how to install my Tilton brake bias adjuster, possibly inside the cabin?


I REALLY would appreciate any advice on how to tackle this project. I installed my custom suspension components, so I feel I have a pretty good understanding of that area of the car. I'd like to accomplish this myself, rather than paying a shop, if possible...!

Thanks in advance,
Greg
1977 308 GTB USA
#23227

 

Please respond to this in my new thread, in Tech, w/ same title...

Thanks,
Greg

 

Walt--why are you removing them? can i be of assistance?

PS--are you coming to Savannah this weekend--we have 40 cars coming