Yes i changed them both but it fixed nothing I have an ignition light so i can check for that I am going to change the thermal ecu with a known working one to see, but then when its idling i should see a sdl flashing and i do not. I checked the crank sensor plug and wiggled the wires just to see if something would change but of course nothing
Image Unavailable, Please Login Hopefully Grant's wiring looks better than the wiring on my previous engine harness. A few dodgy mods there thanks to previous owners. It's a little blurry, but note the F1-only resistor near the yellow wire for the F1 output plug. That big black spice may be standard. I was trying to keep it simple and not add to the damage that is already there.
That big black splice is not in mine I will take a picture My wire is in that same place and has continuity from that plug to the plug for the sensor
Does the 5.2 Motronics ECU shut down fuel (injectors) and spark for slown down? Or just one of them. Does the bank it chooses for slow down vary? (I mean other than for cat temp problems)
Thanks, Grant. I think I know what the big black splice is for. For some reason, one of the previous owners fitted the wrong harness to my car (i.e. a harness for an F1 car with no exhaust bypass thermocouple). My car is gated with an exhaust bypass thermocouple.
This is my Hall Effect sensors and Injectors test kit: Image Unavailable, Please Login The "black box" is actually a table lamp switch with an LED and two resistors inside. With the switch "off" (12 volts) the current to the LED runs through a 1.5 Kohm resistor. When the switch in "on" position (5 volt), it connects another resistor of 820 Ohm in parallel to the 1.5 Kohm one. In this way, the current through the LED is kept just below 10 mA (at 12 and 5 volt respectively). This protects the LED and also the Hall Effect transistor being tested (the maximum current that Hall Effect transistors can handle is typically 40 mA). I could have installed the male and female terminals (pins) on the same pieces of wire (exposed in the middle) but I decided to have separate pigtails so that they are more convenient for other test when I need only male or only female pigtails.
Just something easy to check - the 355 exhaust ECU will cause bank shut-down if its Thermocouple is either bad or disconnected. Perhaps you should check the Thermocouple connector or swap it with the one from the working side. You can also bench test it by connecting a voltmeter (mV range) to its pins and heating the probe with a torch. A good Thermocouple will show near zero mV at room temperature and some 30-40 mV when the probe is heated to bright red.
The 5.2 is a bit short on fuses (one of everything). The 5.2 is famous for being un-fused (in parts). The original Bosch diagram has a warning about this. There are basically (EDIT) 6 fuses: O2 probe heaters L & R radiator fans Fuel Injector Power Secondary Air Pump Fuel pump Here's the other half of the diagram (although some of the lines still have to be resolved). 5.2 Ignition/Injection System Wiring Diagram One fuse failure (ignition or fuel pump) will kill everything.
So in reality the only thing stopping spark to bank 1 would be the thermal ecu but it should show me a sdl which it is not.
There doesn't seem to be separate fuses which, if blown, would affect only one bank. With regard to no sparks on one side, you can check whether, with the ignition "on", you get +12V on the middle pin of the ignition coil, measured between ground and the middle socket in the ignition coil loom side connector.
The symptoms seem to be pointing to an ECU-induced shutdown (either by system logic after a sensor failure.... or as a result of an ECU internal failure. e.g. ignition driver circuit). When 5.2 version came out, the "ignition power modules" were relocated to inside the ECU. These trigger the coil packs. Note that in each coil pack, there are two primary and two secondary coils. There are 2 separate lines from the ECU to the right hand coil pack primaries. Did you check all the spark plug leads for spark? Are all four dead on the #1 bank? I'm thinking that if only two plugs are dead, the problem is inside the ECU (or that spare coil you fitted was also broken).
So i tried a new known work8ng thermo ecu No change Plugged in a know work8ng thermocouple No change This was only done for bank 1 so far.
Yes it is but i find that highly unlikely but anything is possible. What is unusual is my leonardo is pointing to the cam phase sensor but i know its good. I could pull apart the cap on the end of the camshafts but there is really nothing to go wrong with it as far as i know. I am also not convinced the cam phase sensor would stop all spark to bank 1
Is the middle pin not the diagnostic pin? I think i got it. The middle pin is power and the outside are switched grounds according to the timing. So the outside two are actually what fires each set of plugs. Is that correct
Are there any shims on the camshaft sensor? I know Aussie Steve had a problem with crank sensor shims. Yes, directly from the ignition key in ON (and START, I hope). No fuse. Yes, it's the one labelled DIAG, although I don't know why it was (I think it was on the original diagram). There may be a missing splice in the diagram. On the left bank, there is a splice which allows the ECU to see the power going to the left coilpack. Since the left coilpack shares the same power source as the right coilpack, maybe it was doesn't need to monitor the yellow wire going to the right coilpack. To see how the power reaches the coilpacks from the passenger footwell panel and ignition lock, look for the dark grey plug "41090" (pin 2) on both diagrams to see the way the power reaches the coilpacks from the passenger footwell panel (and ignition lock). It's a yellow ("G") wire.
Yes, that is correct. If there is no (permanent) +12V on the middle pin with the ignition "on", the problem is in the power supply line which comes from one of the power splices. If there is +12V on the pin, then it means that the ECU is not switching the outside pins to the ground for some reason.
Note that the G (yellow) and GN (yellow black) power wires from the passenger footwell relay/fuse panel have not been fully resolved in my diagram. A lot of the wiring from the 2.7 car was used in the 5.2 car (laziness or efficiency on Ferrari's part), and although I did wiring checks on my own car, I couldn't resolve the wiring differences completely without pulling plugs off the relay panel or perhaps even opening up the relay panel to look at the internals. I see the yellow wire which powers the RH coilpack may also go to the alternator via splice 30039 (from I9 on the fuse panel). Miro, do you know what the yellow wire on the alternator does? If we didn't have power on the yellow wire, I think we would have much bigger issues. 5.2 ignition
The 355's wiring is very complicated with the numerous power splices. The yellow wire to the alternator is probably for the alternator's volt sensing function - on alternators which have it, it is normally connected to the ignition switched power point somewhere in the middle of the "power grid" so that the voltage drop along the wires and connections can be taken into account when regulations the alternator output voltage. It will result in a bit higher voltage on the alternator's output terminal so that, after the losses along the lines, the voltage is still good, i.e. some 13V at least.
