Let's go down the path of no spark from bank 1. Can you ascertain the coil is receiving trigger signal from the ECU? My guess is no. If no, then let's trace that signal to the 88 pin connector to see if the signal is there. If no, is there another ECU that you can get your hands on to swap out and eliminate the ECU as a good/bad unit?
I have no spare ecu but idid check continuity for the signal wires from the main ecu wire and they test good. Is this what you mean Mitchell? Post 56 for me was one stupid thing. I wrongly did not check center pin for 12 volts or for continuity because i thought it had something to do with diagnostics for the obd plug and i knew that worked. WRONG So last night i checked the 9 pin plug and the 12 volt pin was pushed backwards so I thought i found the problem. Pushed it in to ensure a connection and checked for 12 volts on center pin of coil for bank 1 and had 12 volts with key on This confirms above from Mitchell that i need to confirm signal wires. I or viously confirmed continuity of the signal wires so it has to be in the ecu or the coil because when i changed the coil i MAY nit have had power to the coils middle pin?
So i did check with a good coil for spark and still none I borrowed a scope from my brother but have yet to set it up. My original cam phase sensor never did test ok so i am trying to test it again. I assume the cam sensor i recieved from ricambi is good and i installed it and still no spark. It is possible a new one is bad but i would like someone again to explain how to check my cam sensor. My understanding when i checked my old one was 12 volts to out side pins and signal pin should give 12 volts or 0 depending on if i have a socket onthe magnet or not. This does not happen. I get nothing on the signal line weather i have a socket on the magnet or not. I do get 12 volts if across the teo outside pins
Ok so i guess i was testing the cam phase sensor wrong It now works Here is how its hooked up now 12 volts possitive too the green pin side of sensor 12 volts negative to the black pin side of sensor Red lead on meter to the possitive supply side Black lead on meter on the center signal pin on plug When socket gets close meter goes to 12 volts
I now have a scope so i might be able to see if the trigger ssignal is working Just need to figure out hiw to test it
Grant, pin 51 of the 88 pin connector is the trigger signal for the coil on bank 1 . Hook up your scope to that pin at the 88 pin connector while the engine is running, you should see a bunch of trigger at the engine RPM frequency. It is either 12V going to GRD, or GRD going to 12V . If you have that, and there is no spark at the coil, then the fault is outside your ECU. If you don't have that, there is a good chance that the ECU is faulty. And being able to swap it out will validate or eliminate that theory.
Note that the ignition trigger signals are on pins 51 and 49. There are two coils in each coil pack. The signals should be synchronised. You may need to check both to ensure that all 4 cylinders are firing on the right bank. Good find. Did you refit the old coilpack after the new one didn't improve the situation or is the new one still in there? I wish we knew definitively what the ECU does in response to a failed cam sensor. Does the ECU only shut down one bank, both banks or none at all? Perhaps it depends on the severity of signal degradation.
[QUOTE="... I wish we knew definitively what the ECU does in response to a failed cam sensor. Does the ECU only shut down one bank, both banks or none at all? Perhaps it depends on the severity of signal degradation.[/QUOTE] I would really doubt that the ECU logic is to shut down the bank 1 if there is a fault in the cam position sensor. No other car engines do that. Why would this be different. As far as I know, there is only one thing that leads to a single bank shutdown, the TCU signal on that bank. Well, that or a bad ECU.
Ah, ok. I thought there might be other reasons for bank shutdown. I'm just trying to tie in Grant's OBD2 cam sensor/Leonardo stroke sensor fault with the failed bank.
Thanks Mitchell I just order a spare ecu if mine turns out to be good. So when you say hook it up to pin 51 i do not understand because the scope has one set of leads with a plus and a minus lead. The other lead is a single. I will send a pic
I would really doubt that the ECU logic is to shut down the bank 1 if there is a fault in the cam position sensor. No other car engines do that. Why would this be different. As far as I know, there is only one thing that leads to a single bank shutdown, the TCU signal on that bank. Well, that or a bad ECU.[/QUOTE] After testing the cam phase sensor and a new one not fixing the problem i agree Mitchell I do not believe this is the problem.
That kind of narrows down the list of possible faults. If ECU logic isn't selectively shutting down the right bank because of a cam sensor failure, then that means there is nothing wrong with the cam sensor (a failed cam sensor, in theory, should affect both banks). There is no spark, so it's either an ECU or wiring. The coil pack has been replaced and there is no SD light.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Not really sure how to hook this up here are the pics of what i have
Tried both Ian I thought i had it licked but no such luck. I plugged in the new sensor and it also did not fix so the sensor was fine. Now i have a spare
I think the faut happened and then the computer picked up the fault. My gut says whatever is wrong happened first and the fault was what 5he computer saw after. This is why no cel etc. No codes whatsoever now. Even if i did erase them by accudent they should shiw up again and they are not
I thought i. Should use the leed with the siver coupler but not sure if i need to hook up that other short lead which is joined to the silver coupler leed Any thoughts from the scope guru’s
(EDIT: Disregard this message. I see you are checking the spark, not the cam sensor) You need to tap into the wiring with the ECU connected (possibly via the ECU connector backshell). It's been about 40 years since I used one of these... but looking at the panel... Use the test lead with the coaxial connector and plug it into the Channel #1 side. You just need to clip the probe on the signal wire (pin 21/pink wire) and the black crocodile lead on a suitable earth wire (e.g. ECU pin 6, black wire). Since the cam sensor signal will be around 12 volts, set Volt Division to 5 volts. i.e. start out high and come down. Time Division will be related to engine rpms (If there is one trigger per bank revolution, you may need to start at about (EDIT*) 1 ms or less?) *Cam rotation is half of crank rotation (tacho speed). At 2000rpm on the tacho, if there is one trigger per cam revolution, you will get a voltage change every 1 millisecond. Miro will correct me if I'm wrong
Damn, I did not know you are not familiar with oscilloscope. Do not use the red/black plug. Use the plug with a lead that looks like a long black pen, use that. Plug the round end into the scope, twist clockwise to tighten. There are two channels with round metal ports at the very bottom of the scope. Pick one, channel A or B does not matter. The other end has a flying black lead, clip that to a ground point on the car. Squeeze and pull back on the black probe to expose a hook. Hook that to wire 51 on the ECU connector. You can find a strong sewing pin and pierce the insulation of the wire and hook the probe to the pin. Or use one of the spade connector that squeezes into the wire past the insulation. Lots of stereo guy use that. Power up the scope, adjust the time division (CCW) to a few miliseconds per division so you can capture the slow RPM frequency signal Adjust the vertical scale to 5V per division so you can see 12V spikes. Hopefully that will show some thing.... There is more but it is hard to describe in text over a chat board.
Thanks ) Looks like there are channel selector buttons. Best to plug the test lead into Channel 1 (as Channel 1 has already been selected)... or does the DUAL selection display both traces?
I think dual Its been 30 years since i used one and i was not that compitent back then. Ok i will try in next hour and get back to everyone. Some how though i think Mitchell is correct and the ecu is pooched. The more i test stuff and the more it does nothing the more obvious that seems
Not sure if you guys saw but ferrparts had a ecu so i bought one. I need a spare Anyway, no selling anytime soon.
Tcu you guys calling out is the slow down correct? Well just temporarily bypass it with 1.5volt battery. Look for Sdecu thread we did long time ago explains how to bypass in there.
