Can you use a clay bar on a clear bra?

The process I use is:
1. Wash using lambswool wash mitt and Meguires liquid soap and sprayer (Mr. Clean car wash sprayer with filter). I do not use a bucket. I spray the mitt as needed to keep it clean and go lightly over the car.
2. Dry with microfiber towel gently moving across and down the car and not in a circle.
3. Go over car with quick detailer for initial pass. (do not use on clearbra unless it is Turtlewax Ice detailer)
4. Apply Meguires Advanced Paste wax to entire car (not clearbra).
5. Lightly buff by hand to remove excess wax.
6. Go over entire car (not clearbar) with detailer and then once over again with clean microfiber towel.
7. Use Plexus to clean clearbra. Any discolored areas, you can use 3M plastic Polish and then go over with Plexus again. I would not recommend using the claybar on the clearbra since some quick detailers will discolor or leave residue which is hard to clean on the clearbra or the claybar may add fine scratches.
8. use 303 Aerospace protectant to protect rubber seals around windows and to detail the airboxes, rubber areas, heat shield and plastics.
9. Use Mothers Back to Black to clean and protect door running board.

I haven't used the claybar since I was advised not to use it unless the car is really needing it. Feel the paint and if it feels like it is not smooth (after waxing and detailer). Spray detailer on the part you are claybaring and let the bar glide over the surface without using force. Too much force on the claybar and you can risk damage to your paint.

This detailing process has won the car second place at La Jolla Concours (2011 and 2012), second place at Del Mar Concours (2011) and 1st place at Bella Italia (2012).

 

beware of claybars, very easy to scratch paint. btw, supposedly, a new type of claying is coming out. super easy to use.
ed

 

You can use it on the clear bra (or at least I have).

Although it seems weird to want to clay bar a clear bra, in my case I had a bunch of black marks from auto cross cones on my bra*. I tried EVERYTHING to remove them and nothing worked. At one point I thought they were 'burned in' or something. The last thing I tried was a clay bar, and it lifted the rubber marks off with very little effort. Highly recommended.

*Driving around with all those cone marks was like the Scarlett Letter of Driving Prowess. The shame.


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Claying is very easy. There are different grades, so use a gentle one like Griot's and a lot of lubrication like Griot's speed shine. I clay once/yr, but even on my non-daily drivers, I put on 5K/yr and drive in all weather, so the car is going to pick up impurities.

For the clearbra, Plexus is good to clean, but I always put wax on the bra. Just avoid the seams when you apply. You can also polish the clearbra if you have any scratches in it.

Claying should be followed by polishing (which is when you need the taping). If you don't have a buffer (like porter cable or flex), then I would skip the claying and have it professionally detailed. If you really want to detail your car go to autogeek.net. They have tons of info and products.

Also, liquid wax/spray on wax are usually pretty subpar in terms of durability, shine, depth, etc.

 

Shouldn't need to clay a newer car unless you've had it out for a ton of heavy miles...As mentioned above, run hand over car, if it feels gritty or rough you actually need it. Claying isn't necessary on new paint for the most part, I'd use a liquid buffer agent (Mothers is my perferred) rather than clay on newer paint.

 

You guys are funny. Here is the right info from a well-known and respected detailing professional...

How To Properly Use a Clay Bar by Todd Cooperider
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/how-to-properly-use-a-clay-bar/


Ask-A-Pro: Questions about Clear Bra Maintenance by Todd Cooperider
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/ask-a-pro-questions-about-clear-bra-maintenance/

 

Detailers do not use a lambswool mitts or any type of mitt to wash a car. The reason being no matter how careful you are rinsing the glove there will be grit embedded in the glove which will result in slight paint scratches. A well worn cotton towel is the best choice or a microfiber towel without a sewed on border. The border will will scratch the paint.

 

Not so sure about that http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/my-wash-process-for-maintenance-washings/

I would think that a cotton towel would be the worst and a microfiber towel not too far behind. The sheepskin (or microfiber) mitt captures the dirt, but easily lets it go when you rinse.

 

Not really all it takes is one piece of grit to scratch your paint while cotton does not retain any grit. There are too many folds in a lambswool glove to make sure you got all the grit out. Microfiber will retain some grit because of the fiber fingers but it is easier to see.

 

well to be completely different ? i must be a ocd (obsessive car detailer syndrome ) I like REAL sea sponges from the bottom of the ocean got the old way !by hard hat divers in Tarpon springs Florida USA nothing works better for hand washing ! won't scratch or hold dirt ! nothing but a formerly living thing to wash my my cars !

 

Anticipating an objection! Oh on the contrary, actually, grit does not get embedded in the sponge! that is one of the advantages ! have you ever used one? I have for 40 years and we have a special bucket we made w/ holes in the bottom w/ fresh running water circulating so all grit is settled in the bottom and flushed out /away and we made a grid on the bottom but you don't need it as the sponge floats even fully wet ! many pro detailers allways use a real sponge nothing works better ! Safe on Paint(warning ad copy but the facts are true !)"
Ultra Soft
Convenient
Tough on Dirt
Lathers Liberally
Fast Drying
Earth Friendly
Long Lasting
Odor Resistant

"When it comes to luxury auto care, professional auto detailers and car owners of all kinds agree that nothing offers a more consistent and effective hand wash and scratch-free finish than a premium natural sea sponge. Our Sea Shine™ professional car washing sponges are hand-selected from our premium Rock Island Wool variety, which are sustainably harvested just off the Florida coast. These are some the best sponges that you can buy for all your auto detailing needs, because they are highly absorbent and extremely durable, while also super soft to the touch and gentle on your paint.

The dense but pliable nature of these Rock Island Wool sponges allows you to apply delicate but consistent pressure along the surface of your vehicle for gently removing all unwanted grit and grime, while their soft and highly porous texture then quickly absorbs all the loosened particles into the sponge thus minimizing the risk of scratching, while leaving your paint bright and shiny. Because Sea Shine™ sponges are so porous, they also lather extremely well, meaning that your sudsy water will spread a lot farther, leaving you with less trips to the soap bucket and making for a faster and more efficient auto washing experience.

Naturally inhibiting the growth of bacteria and odors, our Sea Shine™ sponges clean with just the tiniest bit of soap. Use your favorite phosphate-free, chemical-free soap in combination with our all-natural sea sponge for an environmentally conscious clean that leaves no harmful residue for plants or animals.

Save money, save time, protect your paint, and protect the environment; try a natural Rock Island Wool Sea Shine™ Professional Auto Washing Sea Sponge today!

Measuring 6-7 inches in size, our Sea Shine™ natural sea sponges are ideal for hand washing cars, trucks, vans, SUVs, motorcycles, RVs, boats, jet skis, and more."

 

my sea sponge rinse bucket I use for hand washing the car has holes in the bottom and a grit guard to keep the sponge off the bottom but found I need to have water flowing over the top edge too as I otherwise get light dust, leaves, seeds floating swirling around on top of the water ! LOL'

 

Be careful with microfiber miracle towels. They can streak your clear bra if you're not careful.

 

I gave up on clay bars years ago. Kept dropping the damn things as if they were soap in the shower. At which point they’re useless due to the ground dirt they pick up.

I use the 2 bucket method, and if necessary I’ll buff with my dewalt buffer, but so far have only needed to do it on my bass boat.

 

H I !
thx for the warning! I just ordered some microfiber towels ! are those a particular brand of microfiber towels ? or a general observation of all microfiber towels?

 

Clay, ? Yes it does require a firm grip I keep a part pinched between thumb and a finger hence harder to drop ! I use plain water from a hose dispersed in a running sheet when claying - the fancy detail fluid is not required! IMHO - just a waste of $

 

The ones I'm talking about are called Nano Towels. Supposed to clean with just water. The smaller nano fiber towels don't seem to be a problem.

 

I have clayed for years. No damage to the the paint as long there is a clear coat on the car. It quickly removes the surface contaminates (that sandpaper feel when you rub your hand across the paint). I use Speed Shine as was recommend above. Any lubricant will do. Just make sure you keep folding the clay so you have a clean clay surface to work with. I remember the first time I tried it. I was a bit anxious. Somehow it seemed counterintuitive. Clay is great stuff. Go back and forth, front of car to back. If you are cautious like I was try it in an inconspicuous place. It really saves time and $$$. I have never found a bad clay bar on my vehicles that did not work great. It leaves a crystal smooth surface. And it is so easy to use. Be sure you use plenty of lubricant as you move the clay back and forth. The lubricant helps the clay to move. You won't hurt the surface if you do not have enough lubricant. The clay just won't move. I have tried everything in the past 30 years and come back to McGuire's. I recommend you use their products. Clay is great! I have not used clay on a clear bra so I can not comment. There is some stigma about clay. It easy to use and will give quick results. Try it.

 

If you think your paint is smooth and doesn't need claying, try putting your hand in a plastic baggie and then running your hand over the paint. You'll feel all the crap embedded in the paint.

 

I have always used soapy water for the clay bar. You can always do a small area and see if anything comes out before you commit to doing more. The bumpers and rocker panels always seem to need it, not so much the upper portion of a car if it's generally kept clean. Great for tar and bugs without using harsh chemicals but you'll almost certainly have to polish with something about as aggressive as 3M swirl mark remover, so not something to do very often.