Hello All, I am new to this form and a new owner of a 348 ts. I was wondering if anyone would be able to tell me what the Check engine 5-8 light means, is this something that turns on from time to time or is there something wrong. As I have said I am new to Ferrari and to this form any kindness and help would be appreciated thanks for your time... Joe
Well on the 355 ( and probably the 348) this indicated the car "thinks" the cats are overheating and the CEL is telling the driver to slow down. However most of the time it is an ECU or exhaust/CAT sensor that is bad or going bad. Probably could be many other things as well.
I think you have them backwards. Slowdown is cats overheating, CEL lights are issues with the engine. 348's are 2.7 ECUs which means you can read the codes off the blinking dashboard lights by shorting ECU pins. If you have an ECU button, your 9/10ths of the way home. If not, visit my348 for both how to retrieve the codes, decode them, and/or how to rig up a jumper wire to get them.
The "check engine 5/8" means, the computer that controls the bank of cylinders 5-8 has detected a problem. So what you need to do is pull the codes to find out what caused the check engine light to come on. Don't just ignore the light because there is something wrong that needs to be address. Run a search of the archives to find the instructions for pulling the codes.
Hey ClydeM, do you know where it says how to rig up a jumper wire to get the codes without the ECU reset button? Thanks
I followed the instructions here just this last week to find out my codes: http://www.my348.com/348.html#ECUcodes Simple to do.
Sort of...(and my button was black,...) **Oh, you don't have a red button?! Not all 348 models have them. You'll need to order two parts: tester cable 146196 and button 145810 thanks, stevew ***Oh, you've got a Euro 348 that doesn't have CEL's?! You'll need to add two bulbs under your instrument gauge console (two phillips screws to remove). This will give you the U.S. model electronic engine diagnosis functionality.
Lou made this nice video showing how he pulled the engine codes. [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKFhGWLM0i0&feature=player_embedded[/ame]
I believe those parts are NLA; if anyone needs them, best bet is to try a wrecker/used parts shop or find a local owner who will lend you one. Someone posted up how to make your own, but I can't find it. And his code was... 5555, wheels on backwards!
I had thought it was Miltonian that posted that. I guess I was right. His writeup is referenced here. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=366639
Thank you all for the replies, It is impressive how quickly and informative you all have been. Thanks for the great information. Will let you know if how it goes with it.
Hello Brotherhood, I apologies for not getting back to this sooner with this update... This past weekend i finally got the nerve to proceed. I was pretty reluctant the car being a FERRARI, but i finally convinced me that it is still a car with nuts and bolts and parts wear out and need to be replaced. So I set out to do my first Ferrari code search, BTW the instructional posting and video you all shared were very easy to follow and give piece of mind that the task could be performed with success. Here are my findings and a new question I now must put out to the brotherhood for direction. Here are my Codes in the order they appeared and what i believe are the definitions might be: 5-8 Lights 1212-Lambda regulation multiplicative value for self-adaptation 4112-Stroke sensor (phase sensor) 4121-Catalyzer temp ECU 1-4 lights 1413-Injection valve 2 (or 6) 1412-Injection valve 4 (or 8) 1411-Injection valve 1 (or 5) 1414-Injection valve 3 (or 7) 4112-Stroke sensor (phase sensor) 1211-Lambda regulation Additive value for self adaptation (O2 sensor or coolant temperature sensor or MAF) As you can imagine my "holly crap batman" thought i had upon seeing these as I pondered where to start now. And then it hit me the Brotherhood will let me know where and how to proceed. So, i started reading the post searching for directions how to and where to get parts so on and so on. Therefore to save time and get myself back behind the drivers seat i thought i would just submit this post and ask the question..... Where can i find complete DIY instructions and great quality parts at reasonable price to correct these codes errors? Does anyone know if this sequence of codes is unveiling a deeper issue soon to come? I thank you brotherhood for you upcoming help. Joee
Great video. I had no idea that you could check codes in that manner (without a code reader that is). Is there a similar system on the F355?
Hello Joe, it has been a while since I had to pull codes on my 348. But if I remember correctly, one or two of the codes on each bank may be caused by you reading the codes without the engine running. I think it is the 4112 code. I had the 1211 and 1212 codes on mine. I ended up having my MAF sensors rebuilt to take care of them. Yours may only require cleaning or adjusting. Take a look at the MAF section on the 348 primer guide: http://www.my348.com/348.html. It will tell you how to check the adjustment screws/resistance settings on your MAF sensors. The 4121 could be either a bad exhaust ecu or thermo-couple sensor in your cat. You need an infrared temp sensor to check the actual temps of your cats so you know that there is not a real overheating problem with them. You can get them at Harbor Freight for around $40. Run the car and then stop and take temp readings on the cats. They should be around 400 to 450 degrees. If so, then you have a bad exhaust ecu or bad thermo-couple sensor. The thermo-couple sensor sticks into the cat and plugs into the exhaust ecu. You can easily test to see which one is bad. You can swap the ex ecu from one side to the other and see if the code switches sides. One of the handy things about a 348 is that the left bank of cylinders and right bank work separately as two systems. So you can swap a component from one side to the other. If the code switches sides, you have found the bad unit. The ex ecu's are notorious for failing. They are also extremely expensive to replace $700 range if I recall. If you are running strait pipes instead of cats, you do not need them anyway and can unplug them. Same with the thermo-couple probes. The injector codes are new to me. I will let someone else jump in here. Let us know what you find. By the way, the ex ecu units are mounted on the rear subframe towers near the wheels. When you see the ignition coil units, look on the other side of the tower and you will see them. They are rectangular bricks with wires coming out of them. Good luck!
