Hello, We had a discussion here about the above a few weeks back. I'm going to purchase the Coil and then Distributor Cap Boots for both sides, but here is the question ..... this doesn't seem like a slip on do it your self fix to me. In other words, would I have to disconnect the Distributor Cap and plug wires in order to properly slip on the boot and then reconnect everything again? I'm just not sure about going into this myself - I got my car back from the service and it runs super now, so I'm not sure if I want to go into this myself ... or should I wait until I'm doing something to the car with my mechanic and then get it done while under the car of the professional. Any advice is great. Thanks!!!! Mike.
I never take apart anything that's working...that's just a rule... Maybe next time you have it in?? You do have to undo all the plug/coil wires, one end or the other..
This is not difficult to do yourself. The plug wires are attached with screws that pierce the insulation and establish continuity with the poles. Just make sure that you get the wires back on the correct plugs. The boots are very tight going on so be patient.
I am all in favor of people doing things themselves, and I will be the first to say that there's no magic or rocket science here, but I will also say that if you are so inexperienced that you are unsure about a simple job like this, then just wait until the car's next service and have the tech do it....especially if it runs fine right now. Many of the botches and stupid problems I have seen on all kinds of cars have been from owners who were inexperienced working on cars trying to do something simple. If you want to work on cars, I think it is best to learn on a Chevy, Fiat, VW, etc.; work your way up to cheap Porsches/BMWs/Mercedes; and then once you are experienced and know what you are doing (which takes years), start working on your own rare/exotic/expensive cars. Some botches I have seen from owners who are inexperienced in working on cars attempting simple jobs: - Birdman 308 fuse block install resulting in melted wires and bad alternator and then some - Damaged Digiplex from attempting to charge or jump start a dead battery in a 308 - Lotus engine firing when the exhaust valves were open because of screwed up plug/wire/dist. cap install by owner - Exploded can of freon from an owner who tried to charge his A/C and hooked it up to the high side - Cracked Lucas distributor casing from owner overtightening clamp when setting timing on a Lotus engine - Using Torx drivers in Allen heads - Using Allen drivers in Torx heads - Using Torx drivers in cheeseheads/triple squares etc. etc. etc. Cliff's Notes: If you aren't sure that you can do it, don't use a Ferrari/Lotus/Lamborghini/other rare/expensive/collectible/hard-to-get-parts-for car as a learning exercise. No offense intended. I mean well. Practice and learn on a cheap car.
I would agree with some other opinions...even as a DIY I started with simple cars and worked my way up to the 308. Although it is simple it is easy to break as well. You need patience...lots of it. Having done the wire sets myself I can tell you they are simple and you can probably do it. You will want to start by removing the caps from the distributor...there are 3 screws/nuts holding them in place. The bottom nuts are hard to get to and I suggest using a small ratchet w/extension. Once removed you will turn the cap upside down and note the small screws at each contact. These are designed to pierce the wires, make contact and hold it in place. Remove each screw and then pull the wires, noting each location so you don't change the firing order [very important]. Then carefully rotate and pull on the rotor contact. It is friction fit and has a spring attahed to it. Do not lose this! Underneath is another set screw just like the rest. Remove it. Once all of the wires are removed slip the cover over the wires and re-connect each one. I suggest snipping off about 1/4" on each end to create fresh material for the set screws to penetrate. When replacing the rotor contact use a gentle rotating [one direction] pressure to get it back in place. Put the caps back on [there is a notch at the bottom to key it in place] and finish putting on the boot, starting from the bottom engage it and stretch it upward and onto the cap. Job done If this scares you away...have your shop do it.
Hi Guys, Thanks for the comments and tips. Does the job scare me? Not really. Do I wanna mess with a car that runs great? Not really. ;-) I'm gonna try to enjoy the hell outta it this Summer (with no rainy days, ha ha) ... and then have this as "thing to do". I'm pretty strict about being on top of things, so I'm sure I'll get it done sooner than later! Thanks for the advice!!!
neither the coil or dizzy boots were on my car when I got it 9 years ago. I don't drive in the rain and the 1 time I got caught in a downpour I didn't have a problem. Some folks say that the boots trap water and are not worth the hassle in putting them on. But if you want to go OEM and are in shows then I guess you need them.
Hey Guys... Reading this thread tonight because I need to replace the just the forward distributor boot. It's split pretty badly. Wires and coil are fine. What would be the best / simplest way to slide the old one off and the new one on? Thanks in advance.
Remove the dist cap and pull the wires off the plugs. feed the wires through the boot. You may have to start them one of a time. You raised a thread from the dead. This is the guy I ussually use to do that. Let me know if need his contact Image Unavailable, Please Login
this is probably one of the easiest thing to do on the car. pull the old boot down to expose the three screw/bolts attaching the cap to the base. they're slotted but i prefer a small socket, might be 8mm, to remove them. separate the cap from the base. mark the plug wires and their corresponding place in the cap. the coil wire is the one that's on top. remove the small brass screws holding the wires into the cap. when examining the screws you'll see they're pointed so as to pierce to plug wire. looking at the wire you'll notice the dimple where the screw went through when reinstalling be sure to turn the wire a bit so the screw can make a new connection. slip the wires out of the boot and slide the new boot on. replace the plug and coil wires. replace the cap on the base slide the boot onto the cap. easy peasy
Thanks for the answers. Regarding raising the thread from the dead, could there be a more appropriate day to do it than today?
If this is the big plastic boot on the cap you can do it one wire at a time. No need to remove wires from cap. Use wd 40 liberally.
I am replacing the spark plug wires on my 81 308 gtsi and was amazed that the rear distributor did not have the plug numbers on it. Does anyone know what they are ?
Is the plug wire output of the rear distributor the same as the front one? The plug wire id tabs are gone from tje rear distributor,(fell off I guess)
If it were me I would do it from the other ends, leave the cap on, pull the wires at the plugs, marking them and fish them thru that direction...
If the front is 1-4 that only leaves 5 thru 8. There's a diagram of the engine, can anyone post it?? The bands are exposed to more heat (and monkey paws) on the rear bank I suppose.
That is good advise about working your way up from a low $$ car to your exotic. I am an amateur mechanic [self-taught], and started with an old Kharmann Ghia and John Muir's VW Idiot book, then worked my way up to a 911 and a 944. My thought process has been that if I can do the basic maintenance, then the $$ I saved on the maintenance went to the stuff couldn't do. And then there is YouTube University. It is amazing what you can learn from watching someone work on something. I highly recommend it.
Thanks for the diagram, that is exactly what I needed. I should have marked it in advance of removing the plug wires.Live and learn,THANKS AGAIN!
The thing about DIY is that, at some point, you're going to have to do something you've never done before. In fact, that may be the whole essence of it. You need to test yourself.
