Is it possible for you to start the car with a live data stream cold vs hot and see if you can see what is different? I can only imagine that either a sensor or parameter is out of some range that is causing the issue. It may take some time to compare. But as it is temp related, that should narrow the choices. It sounds like a challenge to me. I have had long term issue before that took way too long to sort. Sometimes it just takes time and patience to work through what part is doing it's job correctly and what part is slacking and causing the issue.
Any temp sensors, injection timing, air flow meter stuff. See what is available and pick some stuff. You may find nothing because it is hidden in code in the software and is not actually a problem. Does your clear up if you shut it off and restart?
first, let me be clear of one thing: "cold start" means that the car has parked long enough. It DOES NOT mean the enviromental temp has to be really cold. Now, if I am careful enough to restart it a few times, maybe 3-4 times, CEL will not show on the instrument panel(but will show in SD2 no matter what you do , including restart). I say "careful" because I have to measure how long it idles after each start up. If I let it idle too long in 1200rpm condition, CEL will light up. If I let it idle too short, I'd have to restart it at least 3-4 times to get the idle into a perfect 1400rpm. This seems to be temperature dependent too. If the outside temp is cold enough (like 0 celcius, 32F) , I need to restart at least 3 times to reach 1400rpm(read: no cel). If it is 5 celcius, maybe 1x restart will do it. Once the CEL lit, it will not go off unless I drive the car for at least 200 miles without having to cold start in an evironment that is lower than 10 celcius (50 F) Again, starting the car cold in an environmental temp of below 10 celcius is the ONLY way to make the car misfire. if I start the car warm in WHATEVER environmental temp, the car will NOT misfire. if I start the car cold in an environmental temp above 10 celcius, the car will NOT misfire. 1200rpm idle is the key here, 1200rpm idle will get me misfire. 1400rpm idle will not. ( smooth idle in both 1200rpm and 1400rpm)
UPDATE 1. Today, after starting the car cold , about 10 seconds , as usually, it starts to flash the check engine light, I STEP ON GAS PEDAL to 3000rpm. Guess what, the flashing check engine light went away IMMEDIATELY. 2. I am still trying to login to whatsapp
Hey 360 Trev. I’m having the same issue as the poster, for years now. I’ve tried virtually everything under the sun, spending tens of thousands of dollars in the process. I’m in San Diego California. Do you have any affiliates out here who can perform your software patch? Thank you