DLA12662 has the smaller one, the small one has the glas (or on demand alu), the huger one always the alu bowl. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The last three digits are the code for the Fittings (f.e. JIC, BSP etc.) https://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-category/fuel-system/fuel-regulators-filters-carb.html https://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/malpassi-pro-fuel-carburettor-pressure-regulators/malpassi-filter-king-fuel-pressure-regulators/ Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Jim sure will sort some pictures out over the week-end for you, all I know is the standard location is a right pain for service tucked behind the vac tank and air filter housing, I will be moving it and the fuel lines for a more sensible set-up.
Location of fuel filter, not great for service so will be getting re-located. It is the small 4 bolt one with aluminium case on my car. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks Raymond and Simon, it looks like the four screw filter king is the way to go for a 5000S. I agree the location is a bear to get too. Cheers Jim
There is probably space down near the fuel pumps or in front of the vac tank will study more easily serviced location.
Well got the extension pipes straightened out, or at least as good as when they were manufactured, from images looks like a quicksilver system as for each bend there is some squashing of the pipes which is consistent with the quicksilver manufacturing methods, a load of fasteners ready for re-plating I prefer where possible to wirebrush the fastener clean, in some instances this is not always possible. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If you pay Quicksilver enough money for a custom system, they can manufacture perfect mandrel bends in the pipes for headers & exhausts.
Just having a laugh at the crazy prices for some parts - how about £84.21 for a standard M35x1.5 lock nut for the diff input shaft (item 23). Lamborghini now only seem to supply standard nyloc ring nuts not the original lock nuts. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sump now fully stripped, the engine clearly has been to pieces before as has the sump by the looks of it as the large ring nut clearly had been re-used as the original staking position was not aligned with the slot it had just been hammered into the thread to try and stop rotation. The ring nut retaining the splined collar was a PITA to get off even with an impact gun as the washer under it has a very fine dimpled pattern to stop anti rotation as well as it being a proper locking nut, the OE Lamborghini replacement is just a Nyloc ring nut. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Engine bay now fully stripped bar fuel pumps, will be getting a new engine bay harness made as the insulation has gone brittle plus quite a few connectors are corroded. All liners now pulled out of the engine with my bespoke puller, actually tapped out as they did not need much force to move them. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Radiator brackets repaired correctly, now being soldered on instead of the previous bodge of just using epoxy Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login , radiator fans all stripped down ready for rebuild.
Will be time to get ordering some big bits soon, Will be going with new higher compression pistons just debating now on what to do with liners, either re-bore to 86mm, or just get new Westwood liners to original dims. Just concerned with over-bore these are getting a bit on the thin side at 1.75mm wall thickness at the base. Manley will be making new stainless valves. Hopefully Omega will be able to make the pistons.
Engine bay fully stripped now except fuel umps, ready for cleaning and re=painting, a few of the bits taken off rebuilt and cleaned up. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
New engine bay harness on the way as well from Autosparks who now have the full RHD harness patterns for an LP5000s.
Sump all cleaned up read now for re-assembly, a few other brackets and bits and pieces also cleaner up ready for installation. All the aluminium parts let natural as too many restorations go over board and start spraying the castings with silver paint. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Engine block all cleaned up the same way, the castings for the block and heads have a slight purple tinge to them. Also started working up a push type clutch conversion which I believe can be made to work with a 365BB clutch assembly and a Tilton CSC, that simply becomes a bolt on kit.
Just out of curiosity had a quick look at the release bearing, if you are careful the dust shield is easy to prize off working round the circumference with a Stanley knife blade to pop it up, this then allows the bearing to be re-greased, probably half the reason these bearings go bad is lack of lubricant as there is not a lab Image Unavailable, Please Login rynth seal. I will pop an o ring under the seal at least in an effort to keep the grease in. Worth checking at your next clutch service as it really is a 5min job that could save you thousands on the replacement of this part. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
It appears with some very small modifications to the cover housing (basically to dowel locations) that a BMW E34 M5 clutch will bolt straight up to the flywheel, couple that to a new flange for the guide tube to house a Tilton release bearing and looks like there is a viable route to a push type clutch - just waiting on some feedback from a supplier in the UK to fully confirm. Whilst the old clutch can be rebuilt a number of times, eventually the fingers fatigue at the ends where the release bearing digs in and the release bearing also has a finite life. The current cost of these parts is a joke even taking into account low volumes and L tax.
Engine bay all de-greased, cleaned and re-painted. A few other bits going back in now. New fuel pumps will be installed along with new AC lines, oil lines and water lines to the front. Westwood liners all ready to go to make new liners, plus sample of HC piston to be sent to CPS for manufacture. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
After a bit of help has anyone got pictures of the oil cooler lines and where they run in the front wheel arch? Not sure my lines are in the right place want to get it right now I have swapped them out which is a fun job!
It's pretty tight. Beyond the cooler, I can't see anywhere the lines go. They are not visible under the fender (when looking up past the tire). Do they run inside of the rocker panel?
The oil lines are passing through the tubular frame section, the triangle under the sill, but don't have a Picture at hand currently. There must be a hole in front of the water radiator where they dive.