Cranking the engine without starting after periods of no use

Best to eliminate spark when you want to do this. Even with the fuel pump disabled, there may be enough residual fuel pressure in the system to allow the engine to briefly fire and run before the fuel runs out. Most people will disconnect the primary wire(s) from the distributor(s).

 

Should probably also pull the plugs and make sure the butterflies are fully open when you crank it. This will eliminate loading on the rod and main bearings.

 

Most people do it but you really need to define "Extended period". I suspect there will be many different definitions and many not really taking into account how long an oil film lasts on lubricated parts.

 

I try and start the TR and 328 at least once a year. And when I do that I turn on the battery, reach in the window and turn the key. Thats my level of concern.


How many Ferrari engines do we see getting replaced or rebuilt due to bearing failures?

In my case in 40+ years 1.

We spend a lot of money and go to a lot of trouble and lose a lot of sleep for something that just is not a problem yet this is a weekly issue.

Probably a better chance of your car being hit by a meteorite.

 

They have a problem and it isn't being parked too long.

 

I follow that procedure of pulling fuel relay and cranking only if sitting more than 2 years on any of my cars ..

The process i do is put five or more gallons of fresh gas with a can of seafoam and let sit a day then do the cranking and final start

Been working for me for over 20 years

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

 

You have a 308?
Your engine has the same bearings and connecting rods as a:
250 GT with 16 hp per cylinder
365 Daytona with 29 HP per cylinder
F40 with 62.5 HP per cylinder
Your car with 25 HP per cylinder.

Not a single one of those was ever known for bearing issues. None. With the exception of the F40 were all considered understressed engines. Valve guide we had isses with because of victorian age materials, some pistons and rings for the same reasons but none lubrication related.

308 wet sump engines in race type events did suffer from oil starvation and that is an exception but that type of duty was far more properly carried out by dry sump versions and why Ferrari produced them.

 

My only concern would be the cam belts. Not sure if too long of sitting in one position is an issue, or not.

Oh, that and gasoline in the tank, it goes south pretty fast after a year. It burns, but not particularly well, as I have found from experience. I try not to let gas stay any longer than 6 months in any of my cars.

Doug

 

I have had ethanol gas WITH STABIL added sit for 14 months in a motorcycle that was not started at all during that period. It started immediately/ran as well as it did with brand new gas. My 328 has been stored for up to 7 months, also with Stabil. I just get in, twist the key and it starts like it was running yesterday. I adjust the tire pressure but I don't check anything else. I figure if there is no oil or coolant pooled on the garage floor, it's all still in the engine.

 

Gasoline stabilizers help quite a bit, but no stabilizer = crappy gas after a year. Especially in warmer climates.

Doug

 

Once per year?! That’s sad. Drive them.

 

A. You should take things less literally.
B. You should allow me to use my cars any F'n way I want.

 

Long hard cornering on the track in my QV did this. Badly.

About 20 years ago I put an Accusump in to try to help it - it didn't. But I left it in just because it pre-lubed the top end when I turned the key on before I started it. I thought that may be a useful byproduct from it.

A windage tray in the oil pan fixed the oil starvation issue years later and I eventually just did away with the accusump. I'm glad to hear getting rid of it doesn't make any long term difference on start ups

 

Yea. The wetsumps had a real issue in right turns.

 

Never do anything but park it in the garage in the late fall and start it in the spring. 37 years, never a problem. No additive or stabilizers or special treatment on restart. Don't even bother to fill the fuel tank.

 

78 GTS - US
After sitting about 19 years without being touched I did the following.
1. Made sure engine wasn't seized using socket on crank pully. Just rocked it a bit.
2. Changed oil filling crank case only about half way.
3. Made a pre oiler adapter (see pics) that screws onto oil filter adapter and used Harbor Freight manual pump to pump oil through the system until I could see it flowing over the cam through the oil filler opening. While I was worried about the bearings I was more worried about the cams. Took all of 10 min and was confident fresh oil was pumped throughout the engine.
4. Topped of engine with oil.
5. After changing cam belts, checking compression, changing fuel pump and all fuel lines started it with no drama.

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Not to mention 8.6:1 compression (QV) isn't exactly stressing your bearing surfaces like a 13:1 race motor.

 

"Probably a better chance of your car being hit by a meteorite."

Would be a good deal!

https://www.thevintagenews.com/2019/03/27/peekskill-car/?safari=1