daytona factory comp engine parts?

The period components you seek for the most part work well on a show car but not in the real world.

Modern technology has totally eclipsed what could be done in the early 1970s as well as what was allowed and Homologated under the FIA's GR2, GR3 and GR4 rules.

One of the most difficult factors to deal with in getting reliable improved performance out of a Daytona engine is how to dissipate the heat generated. Modern "Nascar" type radiators and oil-coolers are a start. Proper ducting and air flow as well as under the bonnet shielding are crucial. As for bolt ons and internals... Modern Moldex Crankshafts, after market connecting rods, bearings, pistons, rings etc... will improve strength and reliability. Compression ratios can be raised however if you go too high and too radical on cam and ignition timing you are going to loose the ability to run on "pump" gas which limits using the cars on the best long-distance endurance races such as the Tour Auto and Modena Centro Oro.

Aftermarket headers with tuned venturis that are set up on the dyno will allow dramatic improvements in torque at a far wider rpm range. Stock carbs and intakes work well but getting is crucial.

The assembly of the components and machining and relieving of stress points on the block are all key factors.

Depending on your use and application of the car in question, dropping the final drive ratio will dramatically improve off the line and out of the corner acceleration. I used to race stock Daytona that raced at Sebring in period. The only significant modification was no AC and a very short ring and pinion gear. At Morosso, Lime Rock and similar short to medium speed tracks the car would out accelerate and out-run some of the high dollar Factory Period GR4 Daytonas. The compromise was of course taking the top speed from 175mph down to something just over 140mph. Not really much of a compromise unless you are racing Road Atlanta, Elkhart Lake, Monza, Le Mans or Spa.

Another factor to consider is braking. There are few legal mods that can be made under most sanctioning groups. Period correct 512S/512M calipers and rotors are about the best you can source but expect to shell out nearly $75K or so for a complete bolt on set. Ducting fresh air to the rotors helps as does modern brake fluid technology but if you think the brakes fade quickly in a 275 GTB or GTB/4, they can go away twice as fast when you start pushing any Daytona.

One final note and something that I have recommended to most of my Daytona buyers over the past 20 or so years. Unless you actually have access and the time to take your Daytona (stock or otherwise) to the track once in awhile, you will never know what you are missing. Even in bone stock configuration, it is only at race track speeds and conditions that you can truly appreciate and enjoy a Daytona's capabilities.

We have two competition Daytonas and a shop full of specialists that know how to care and prepare them. They also know what can be done and what is allowed in which events without getting in trouble or at a minimum caught. Email at bnoon@symbolicmotors if you are interested in learning a bit more or speaking with some of our race and restoration specialists.

Cheers,

Bill Noon

 

There are carb tops with stacks that were readily available in the 70s from FAF. The comp cars used cold air boxes. Check with T Rutlands, they are ex FAF and may know the source for the stacks. Cams are P6 and pistons can be had from JE with CNC constuction and better metallurgy. The headers probably would have to be fabricated.

You would need head work to maximize any benifit. Stock heads dont flow very good.

None of this stuff is real good for street use. The cams really kill the bottom end acceleration.

 

This guy has some comp pistons at a good price:-http://www.bobhoughtonferrari.co.uk/parts/Ferrari.htm
Grant

 

Bills comments as usual are good. The low (high numerically) ring & pinion really increase the acceleration dramatically, but it is like driving a muscle car with a 4:11 for street use, and for a track with a long straight you would hit the redline (or hopefully rev limiter) pretty early

 

http://www.roelofsparts.com/rp/index.php?option=com_productbook&func=viewcategory&Itemid=32&catid=40

http://www.roelofsparts.com/rp/index.php?option=com_productbook&func=detail&Itemid=32&id=164

etc

 

Another great old thread. This sounds like a lot of fun!

 

Why was billnoon banned?

 

Something to the effect of repping business through his personal account while failing to become a sponsor.