Daytona US version vs. European Spec?

What are the main differences between the US and European spec Daytona? For a US based owner, which version is more desirable? Which version is better from a long term investment point of view?

 

Main differences off the top of my head:

US car has a smog pump, air injection rails, high idle circuit, etc. Euro has none of this.
Carbs are slightly different (I forget the Weber designations)
Euro distributors are a 3 lobe dual point design. US is a 6 lobe dual point (one to retard ignition at idle)
Coils are different.
US version uses the Dinoplex electronic ignition. I don't recall if the Euro cars eventually added this, too, but my 71 does not have it.
Exhaust is different and uses different exhaust hangers
US have side marker lights cut into the body.
US has a single backup light between the bumpers, euro has 2 mounted below each bumper.
US front turn signal lens is amber with no prancing horse. Euro can be white or amber (depending on country), some with prancing horse.
Seat belts are different I believe.

That's all I can think of off hand. shill288 is the expert here, and I'm sure he'll chime in! There doesn't appear to be any difference in value or collectibility between the two. My preference was for Euro as it doesn't have the cut in side marker lights and no smog. Many US cars have the smog disabled or missing. It's one more thing to worry about if you care about correctness.

-steve

 

Steve,

Oh, man, it would take a book to deal with the differences. It's not just USA vs. Euro, it is which year Euro and which non-USA country you're talking about vs. which year USA. I'm in Monterey this week, but just to deal with Steve's comments, from memory as I don't my stuff in front of me:

1. Weber Carbs: Early Euro 40DCN20 (best for daytonas, particularly with more aggressive cams), Later Euro 40DCN21, USA 40DCN21/A
2. Distributors: Euro S85F (not S85As as people tend to state), USA S138B. Steve hit the issue. It's easy to make the USA functional like the Euro set up.
3. Coils: Euro, BZR201A, Early USA BZR205A, "Middle" USA BAE200A, Late USA BAE203A. Some may have received BAE201A coils as well.
4. To the best of my knowledge, no "Euro" Daytona came with either Dinoplex unit. Early Daytona Coupes had the larger CAEC101DAX (I think that is the model number) and the later Coupes and all USA Spyders had the AEC 103 A. The BZR205R is generally used with the CAEC101DAX, the BAE 200A and 203A with the AEC 103 A.
5. Exhausts and headers are different. In addition to Steve comments, the headers on the USA cars are smaller and have flanged joints. Early Euro cars use a slip on design between the header that center section, the later cars use a USA style flange joint.
6. Yup. And they are not Carello (that was a later spare part).
7. Yup. USA cars and later German cars have a reflector below the tail lights and above the bumper. Some Euro cars have a reflector in the brake light. In general Euro cars use Red brake lights and Amber directional lights. USA cars used red brake and directional lights. But, the lense is different between the two (SAE ST 67 and SAE I 67 respetively).
7A. Bumpers are different. The Euro and early USA cars have the same basic front and rear bumper set up except, as noted by Steve, the Euro cars will have a plate on the underside to attach the two reverse lights. Later USA cars, built after the Summer of 1972, have bumpers and bumper struts that are reinforced for the new 5 mph front and rear DOT crash rules. Why Ferrari ever did this is a mystery to me as two seat cars were exempt from this until March 1, 1974.
8. Yup.
9. Klippan 517, 541, 562 and, I'm forgetting one earlier one, have been used. In general, the 1970 early 71 cars have the 517, later 1971 cars the 541, 1972 and later the 562. USA cars after 1/1/72 require the interial reel set up. Euro cars could be ordered with or without seat belts.

There's lots of other stuff from Steering wheels, wiper arms, wiper blades, blocks, timing chests, radiators, thermostats, wheels, springs, clamps, etc., etc. that vary between the USA and Euro cars. I have a ten plus page "cheat sheet" I created before Cavallino earlier in the year just to highlight the main ones.

Steve

 

Thanx a bunch for the details, Steve. You're a walking Daytona library. We should name you Mr. Daytona as an honor. w/ smiles Jimmy

 

Hello,
What about compression ratio ? Values are different according to books or magazines I read... But people usually say 9.3 for european Daytonas and 8.8 for american. Is it true ? Does that mean special pistons... ?
Sorry if the answer was given in another thread.

 

Just to clear up part of the infomation above, Euro and RHD cars did not come with electronic ignition.

Re compression I was under the same assumption as you as sellers like to quote it when selling Euro cars, but the Daytona workshop manual only mentions a compression ratio of 8.8:1 for the type 251 engine, chassis type 605. I am not sure if the owner’s manual says the same as my copy is at work.
Anyone know what happened to Steve [Shill288] ? He has not been seen on F Chat since 2016.

 

I am also curious about this. I tried to contact him through FChat around the time that I bought my car, because I was interested in a copy of the "cheat sheet" that he mentions in this thread, but never got a reply.

I love many of the posts that he has made in the past, so hope that he is well.