The OEM manual lists the "Distributor to Cam" torque spec as 80 Ft-Lbs .. . (308 GT4) What are they referring to? The 3 bolts holding the distributors to the bases (holding left side cam seals) is not 80 Ft-Lbs. .. right!? Thanks, Jim
I think they're referring to the big bolt that holds the belt sprocket to the end of the camshaft. You frequently see camshafts and timing belts/chains referred to as "distribution" in Italian parts manuals.
Sounds good.. BUT they have .. "Nut, pulleys to camshafts (18 x 1.5) @ 11 Kgs" = 80 Ft-Lbs in the OEM manual in another place on the list! Those are the timing belt pulleys. This is a 12mm bolt/nut .. ?? It says.. "Nut fixing distributor to camshaft (12 x 1.25) @ 11 Kgs" = 80 Ft-Lbs ??? Thanks, Jim
Early 308 cams and distributors used a "dogs-in-a-slot" style drive coupling (rather than the later pinned spline coupling) to transmit torque, maintain synchronicity, and yet accommodate any misalignment between the cam rotation axis and the distributor rotation axis so there was a fairly large bolt on the distributor end of the intake cam too -- see the (excellent) photos by Jim in post #3 of this thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=209051 Just ignore that particular spec if you have the later pinned spline coupling(s).
AHAaaaaa! Thats surely the answer.. Thanks! What is the torque for the three hold down (10 mm?) distributor bolts? I don't see a value for them?? .. ~ 44 Ft-Lbs ?? Also, I think I've had substantial leakage before .. past the distributor O-Ring? [Could have been the cam seal..or the spacer gasket also, I guess?] I was told to use RTV on the O-Ring once, but chided here.. that it could block some oil passage.. probably right! Hmmm? What's the best way to install the O-Ring? Oil only? Grease? What's ideal?? Thanks, Jim
I would not use a curing sealant on the o-ring -- 1) to accommodate the misalignment of the two axes there might be a little relative motion, and 2) intentionally introducing "worms" of cured sealant into a lubrication system is a bad idea IMO. One thing that you should check is to confirm that you have the plug 112547 in place in the splined couplings -- item 42 in this 308 SPC figure: http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=2199 Are they that big (10mm)? My recollection is 8mm -- but, regardless, something more like 20 ft-lb would be plenty.
Could you explain that part in detail? Is that supposed to stop the oil completely in that shaft? Can I take it out easily.. to check? Thanks, Jim
Here's a copy of the service bulletin: Image Unavailable, Please Login The big advantage is that, if the o-ring fails, the engine doesn't puke out all its oil quickly; however, if you seal things well when installing it into the 108005 splined coupling (for example, by having a good fit and using an aeroboic sealant, like Loctite 518), it does the sealing of the high pressure oil inside of the camshaft instead of the o-ring -- hence the note to grease the spline (and o-ring) for lubrication when the plug is present because that area is no longer wetted by engine oil. Just look into the end of the splined coupling on the camshaft -- if you can see inside the camshaft (or poke a coat hanger wire into the cam), you do not have the plugs.
Great Info! I'm confused though? So, are you sealing the coupler into the cam with Loctite.. Or the plug into the coupler? (NOT the distributor spline into the coupler spline.. Right?) .. Please clarify for me.. Thanks, Jim P.S. I'll check for those plugs tonight! Want to put the belts and cam covers on if possible.. So, I hope I can get this status cleared (Plugs?, Loctite?) soon..
HELP! No Plugs! Is that common? I see a pic for the same 308 GT4 part, but not listed with a price. How long wud it take to get 2 plugs? Got any on ya? Ha! My buddy wants to take it apart .. coupler off.. I assume you can just tap the pin out and reuse, right? And then locate something locally that wud fit.. ? Bcuz.. Waiting a week or two for these plugs wud be somewhat catastrophic.. we are on a timetable to finish several projects.. leather redye, engine major service, steering wheel center, painting rims, new tires, patching imperfect paint job, etc. .. etc. B4 Concorso Italiano on August 17th! 1) How long to get plugs here? 112547 (x2) 2) Seems like we cud get a plug here.. or have made .. if time issue to buy? As long as it press fit.. and not too long to hit distributor spline.. ? 3) Is the plug solid .. or thin walled? Thanks, Jim
Does it make any sense.. to try to Loctite the tolerance fit between the coupler and the cam? To reduce flow of oil past the outside of the coupler.. into the space created by the "spacer" that is holding oil in by the regular seal?
You could have those plugs from Ricambi in a few days. Why not fix the car right once and save yourself much aggravation down the road?
I called GT Car Parts.. They're Priority mailing 2 plugs .. hope to get Saturday.. for our Sunday garage session..
No, any oil leakage there is inboard of the lip seal, and that whole interior space is filled with oil splashing everywhere when the engine is at speed (so a little more oil coming out of that joint doesn't make any difference).
I'm sure that area was leaking thru the gasket.. at bottom .. It wasn't sealed, just dry. I'm Double-HondaBonding everything.. No dry gaskets for ME! And.. don't tell anyone.. but I'm using a very small bead of non-hardening Permatex on the outer (inside) edges of the seals! I'm almost sure.. two or three of those outer seal surfaces were leaking.. on the dry press fit plan!
Installed the cam oil plugs.. not easy, but gotter done! The set pins were hard to get out.. even MUCH harder.. to get back IN! Had to bevel leading edge to make it insert totally! Then peened both ends.. Thanks for this INFO! Jim P.S. Putting alotta energy .. and parts! .. into sealing leaks .. Hope it at least doesn't leak on the exhaust manifolds!!! I found about 4 places it was doing so! (I thot there wud be just one place.. Ha!)
