SOLVED: Ferrari 458 intake manifold flaps code 1525 1521 1523...
SOLVED: Ferrari 458 intake manifold flaps code 1525 1521 1523 https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/solved-ferrari-458-intake-manifold-flaps-code-1525-1521-1523.615200/#post-147725290
All about Ferrari SEATS very well explaned here: https://stevenjohnson.me/cars/ferrari-458-seat-options/
Has anyone replaced the secondary air valves on the exhaust of their 458? I am getting code P0491 (low flow secondary air, bank 1). I was able to test the air pump and solenoid valve using my 2 way scan tool so I know that they are working fine. I know it's a fairly common fault with these cars, so I want to replace the valve, and tackle it myself. Has anyone done this job? Are there any tricks? It seems straight forward, and I think I will have clear access once I remove the wheel and the wheelhouses, but I would like to know for sure before I start the job. I ordered the valve, clamp and gasket today. I will tackle it once the parts arrive, and I will update this thread as well.
OBDII ! What happened today ? Car was rumbling funny, not quite as "always"... Got a message ...Catalyst temperature not plausible ... -> Go to dealer slowly ... And becaus I did not believe this I took my $20 OBDII reader ... Put it in and asked it to scan forr messages ..It did give me: Cylinder 6 - Misfire detected. I deleted the message and .... all fixed. Car running as always. But what if you don't have such a little tool when traveling ? You may get into "limb mode" and then .... So ... get yourself one Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If the same code comes back, I would replace the plug and coil pack on that cylinder. Better yet, if the plugs are more than 6 or 7 years old, I would just replace all the spark plugs right away. You don't want them seizing in the cylinder head.
I had the same CAT message plus A CEL two weeks ago. Scanned by the dealer and it was a fouled plug as they found unburned fuel on the plug causing the unburned fuel to make its way to the Cat. Replaced all plugs from 2012. 9k miles. No more problems Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Exchanged my 8 sparkplugs this Monday … had bought them last month … at almost 58.000 kms driven with them ... And of course I did not have the correct 15mm sparkplug tool …. and how do you get a sparkplug out ? With a magnet I know now ... And that little yellow connector, took some time to figure out how to loosen the cable ... Had a look at Carguy on 2 videos … in one, they break a connector, in the second YT he only mentionned that it could go wrong. So my cil #6 was suspected ...causing the alarm twice. And yes, it was # 6 that had rust on plugs and connectors … (water ? …… but how ?) Cleaned all, put grease on all rubber seals and a little coppergrease on the new plug … Running as she should be, no alarms anymore … Happy, took me 1,5 hrs in all and saved me $ 800 for sure ! D I Y ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
In order to fix code P0491 on my car, I tackled the secondary air valve on bank 1 today (passenger side of left hand drive car). Overall, it wasn't too bad, pretty easy. The only trouble was the parts that were supposed to be easy. For instance, one of the heat shield screws was hard to get to because I needed an additional joint in my fingers and arm, lol. I tried to do the whole job from the wheel well, but I couldn't get that one heat shield screw, so I had to take the right side panel off and access it from the top. I also used the topside creeper to reach it, otherwise I would have probably leaned all over the car, and risked scratching it. Here are the steps: - Remove rear wheel - Remove rear half of wheel house (photo #2) - Remove front half of wheel house (photo #3) - Remove heat shield (rear section only) covering secondary air valve (I'm pointing to it in photo #4) - Remove 2 bolts holding the air valve to the metal pipe (photo 5 & 6 show the pipe) - Remove small vacuum hose, and large hose by prying the tab of the clamp open That's pretty much it for removal. Installation is reversed. Some hints: - Have a properly sized crimp style ear clamp handy (28.6 mm), and of course the crimping tool. The hose clamp I ordered from the parts diagram was apparently updated and a different style clamp that uses a special tool. I preferred to use the same clamp that was OEM on my 2013 MY car. That size was hard to find, so I bought this kit that has that size (it's the biggest in the kit): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086ZH79PB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - You may have to bend the heat shield slightly to maneuver it out. That's ok, it's soft and can be bent back to look perfect. - a lift will be a great help because you can raise the car and look up to access the air valve. If you look at it straight on, the exhaust system covers it, you can see in photos. - to remove the crimp style clamp on there, stick a small screw driver into the band end and separate it, it will release. That way is much easier than trying to cut the ear with a wire cutter. (See Photo #7) Here are the photos: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Some photos of the valve before it was removed: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
How to cope with a Brakebooster Failure ! Many thanx ILKO ! https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/intermittent-brake-failure-fixed.639751/
With our cars getting over 10 years old, some unknown problems may occur with all our cars. Lets help eachother ... On new problem raised: did any of us encounter a rear taillight 458 of which the LED light stopped working ? How did you solve that ? Image Unavailable, Please Login New ones are frightfully expensive .... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
No, I have not had any light failures. As I mentioned earlier, my mechanic does all maintenance on the ‘13 Spider. It has 25,000 miles on it, I drive it almost daily. It has had plugs replaced because it was throwing “catalyst temperature” code and going into limp mode. New plugs, all fixed! Next up is the expansion tank and cap (coolant) as he found some fissures during inspection. At this usage the car is going in twice per year for service, and each time I have him stay on top of all fluid changes and service. Next up is a little fun, finally - install of Novitec springs and spacers to add a little ‘pizzazz’ to the ride and looks. I do a lot of spirited driving and want to cut down on the body roll. Earlier I installed a Dave Mase Engineering Tune and it has calmed the jerkiness out of the car at low speeds, around town. Car has been trouble free, I think driving it often is good for it. If I experience any incidents I will report them. Excellent thread and let’s keep it going. Here is a pic of the Spider next to a Performante. We had a little ‘spirited drive’ and I was a bit surprised the 458 did pretty well against the V10 640 hp Bull…… Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I started looking at what's needed to do a plug swap and got stuck trying to get the coil pack pulled from the spark plug. Trying the rear ones as the easiest to get to, with both hands pulling I could not get it off. Tried wrapping some thick wire around and pulling and only moved it a couple of mm. Stopped as did not want to break it off, is there a trick or tool that would help get them off?
I did not replace mine myself, my mechanic did it. He called me during the job and said the coils were extremely difficult to remove, and was afraid the coils might break. Luckily, nothing did, but I will find out if he did anything special to get them separated. He also reported the plugs seemed ‘older’ than he would have been expected. Hmmmmmm………In any event it is running much better now.
Yes, I have had the passenger side rear lamp failure that I have not fixed yet - as I am not sure how all LEDs would fail. I am not even sure that it stopped working. I read that it may be the sensor that monitors the lamp that may fail???
One way to find ou, costs time but: exchange left to right and see wether te light is broken or the powersupply for it. Thats wahta I did. In my case it was a bad contact in one of the two connectors … lucky me. Any help, can you d0 it yourself ? Remove wheel, unscrew the plastic panel (leave the one that is far away, use a wire to hold panel aside and unscrew lamps) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Try to spin them before pulling up. You can also pry back the dust cap portion and blow some air down there with a compressor while pulling up.
Thanks, I'll give that a go. Might try and spray some WD40 around the outside and see if some will seep down and help.
That would be great, thanks. Mine has just started to run a little rough while cold, already cleaned the MAF's and next thing to eliminate are the plugs.
Watch the 2 videos mentionned by the Ferrari Guy … he uses a small hook tool (dunno how its called in english: Stanley Wonder Bar ?) … as I did And refitting: use some grease on the rubber surfaces ! Image Unavailable, Please Login