Nice work and pics.... The leak on the actuator won’t be solved by tightening the black Selespeed cover. It is only a dust cover and under it are two cylinder end caps retained with circlips. Once of these must have a leak. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Night and day on finish. Gotta love the factory welding job! A true thing of beauty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So, that rear cover can be removed without the risk of parts going flying? Not sure what it was but I tightened up the cover and it hasn't leaked since. Even after energizing the pump to pressure the system. But, if that is just a dust cover, I'll pull it to see what is going on.
Okay, here is the lowdown on the belts and tensioners.... Below are the pics I found when I pulled the covers off. I checked the belt tension with the Gates app on my phone. RH belt measured at 185hz. Tensioner gap measured about 5/32 or 4mm cold and . LH tension was similar and gap was 5mm. Belts were not factory Ferrari belts, but Dayco #94984. Existing tensioner bearings were replaced with Hill PT360 units. The problem came with I tried to set the tension. I have the 360 WSM and the CS WSM as well as several posts and lists from here documenting a belt service. To maintain the min gap of 1.9mm, along with a movable lock pin, I cannot get the tension high enough on the belt. I have followed the procedure exactly: - Rotate tensioner pulley to compress tensioner and insert locking pin - Measure gap (1.9-2.3mm) and adjust tensioner - Rotate crank twice, wait min 2 minutes - Recheck gap and ensure lock is free to move - Adjust tensioner with frequency measuring device (190-220hz) - Start over again, because gap and tension can not be maintained. When I pulled the tensioners to insert the locking pin, I was able to compress the plunger. There was still heavy resistance but I was able to do it with a vise. I reinstalled the tensioner and proceeded to set the belt tension. I am not able to maintain the 1.9-2.3mm gap and apply the minimum 190hz on the belt. Not sure if I have bad tensioners or not. They will compress but I am beginning to think they are weak. With the belt tensioned, The gap doesn't change, it just wont allow me to have both gap and tension. I'm thinking that with the pin removed, the pulley is allowed to retract slightly while under tension. Anyone have any suggestions? Bad tensioners or something else? Also, does anyone know how to adjust the PS belt?? (just kidding....guess sometime after 2009, they broke the head off the bolt....) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If it’s the one at the rear of the unit with ‘Selespeed’ on then yes. Oil will be collecting inside when it should be dry. I’d see how bad it is before deciding to do anything. I’m attending to another leak on the opposite end..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m no pro. I initially found the procedure a bit confusing. When I do mine I assume the ~ 2mm gap is a starting point. Once tensioned and engine is spun x 2, and allowed 2 min to equilibrate I found the gap change a little. In theory It shouldn’t be static or there would be no reason for a dynamic tensioner. Not sure why you are taking out the tensioner and using a vise to compress the tensioner. I use the pulley adjuster to move the tensioner piston and re-insert the pin if necessary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I agree the procedure is very confusing. Seeing how it says to adjust for the minimum gap with the lock pins inserted and free to move. Followed by crank rotation and then setting final torque as long as pin is free to move. Then remove the pins and wait two minutes. Next step is setting the tension with frequency. In the details, it states check the lock pins to see if they are free,,,,,when did the lock pins get put back in? As far as compressing the tensioner plunger in a vise, I am not sure if it was due to belt stretch or not, but I wasn't able to compress the plunger with the pulley alone. Old belt was approx. 1 tooth height longer than the new belts.
I interpreted it as -loosen tensioner pulley bolt and adjust tensioner pulley so the pin slides in and out. All three holes: the front wall hole tensioner piston hole, and back wall hole. preliminarily tighten the bolt. - spin engine x2 - make sure the pin still slides in and out. -torque pulley bolt - remove the pin - check frequency, and adjust if needed by making slight adjustments by loosening the pulley bolt, and moving the pulley and rechecking the tension. However after reviewing this because of your questions. There are two axis. First is at the bolt off center in the pulley noted in initial setting of belt which becomes locked after torquing the pulley bolt. Second is the bolt axis of the pivoting arm that the pulley is bolted to. Perhaps just adjusting the pulley and arm as a unit without loosening the pulley bolt again at this point is all u need to do. The tensioner should pick up the slack and keep the tension. I’m due for belts, and have stuff, just need time. I’m going to try this next time. The more I think about this the more I feel this may actually be correct. Here is one image I found on eBay to use as a reference. https://goo.gl/images/TCcELY Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The last point in my last post may be nonsense. It’s been 3 years since I last did This. You should be able to get the gap correct, and tension correct. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well, in a holding pattern until parts arrive..... Ordered Redline 75w90NS and Redline 5w40 from Amazon since nobody carries it around here. Oil deairairator turned out factory looking after following the directions of waiting 10 minutes or so between coats. Sprayed thee coats and let it sit for a couple weeks to cure. Installed with a new orings for the internal thingy and installed the assy. to the car. Tried and tried again to adjust the tension and gap per the WSM, but I was unable to get both within range. I am figuring that the tensioners are weak, so new tensioners were ordered as well as new mounting bolts. I could get the clearance at 1.9mm but the tension on the belts was below 190 hz. If I tightened up the tensioner just a bit to increase the tension, I los the clearance. Given the fact that when I pulled the guards, the clearance between the body and the pivot was in excess of 1/4 inch, I am erring on the side of caution and replacing the tensioners in addition to the tensioner pulleys which have already been installed. More updates to come.....
hi, can you measure the depth of the socket you bought? better yet, the "needed depth" of the socket, ie. the height of the hex head? about the small side pulleys, I believe they shouldn't be touching, as they are for protections only. I am not sure
Its been ~3 years for me as well since I did belts. It really wasn't hard to get the tension correct. You'll be fine.
Overall depth of socket is 3 inches and my ratchet puts it right at 4. IIRC, this is it....no more room under there as the rachet was rubbing on the pulley as i was taking it off. There is not enough room to work it from the top using this. Only thing i can get on the crank bolt is a 12" cresent wrench. If im feeling froggy ill get under the car later and measure the available working space. 29 degrees is too cold for this Montana transplant to get my happy ass out there....unless im warming the car up for my wife! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my SM-G955U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Correction, ratchet was rubbing on the backside, not the pulley face. With this setup, it takes up about 5 inches from pulley face to backside of ratchet. Also in this picture, you can see the technical, specialized Ferrari tools such as the tensioner pulley adjustment tool and the highly sought after cam gear anti-rotation retention device.... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks Dino.... Because of the issues I was having with the tensioners, I elected to replace them so now it's a waiting game.....guess that means more time to detail other stuff such as the fake leather straps.... Had a relative who recently got into leather working make the straps with real leather..... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Referring back to Post1/picture No.2 - showing the idler pulley. There are two of these buggers, the one in the photo, and another for the AC pump belt. I think it does say in the WSM that they should "touch" the belt. Caused me a lot of worry as to what "touch" meant, couldn't find any mention of it in the SI/ISO tables defining force or pressure .
I think in the CS WSM, it says just that...just touches the belt. When I pulled the inspection plate, the one on the RH side was about 1/2 away from the belt....No way it could have provided any help to the belt under any circumstance that I know of....
Yes, he just started in fact. They are posted on his website where he makes other leather goods. He has the patterns for the 360 tool kit and inflator straps thanks to my original straps......Any other models, he may have to have your originals to make patterns from. The good news is if he does this, I would think he would discount the price by a significant amount. Website... https://www.tworedbirds.com/ferrari-accessories
Update on the major.... Waiting on parts now including tensioner assy. x2 and other misc. parts that I needed. Had to order my oil from Amazon of all places. 5/40 and 75/90NS, both Redline products. Tranny is full, engine is partially full. Couldn't figure out how to adjust and remove the power steering belt until I realized the head of the bolt had been sheered off! This also explains why the PS belt was dated 2009 instead of 2013 like the others.... New bolt installed and this is just one of those other things to put in the WTF were they thinking. I've dealt with this setup before. You have a pivot bolt and a lock down bolt. Adjustments are made with a "pusher" for lack of a better word. However, Ferrari, decides to thread the pusher bolt into the bracket holding the pump itself. What I've run across before is the bolt is retained in the bracket and it is only used to push the unit.... Thought it was seized at first because I couldn't understand how the bolt head would have broken but thankfully, it was okay. Wasn't looking forward to pulling something else..... This job is turning into a box of chocolates as Forest Gump would say..... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Is this the tensioner bolt location in first pic and the removed and replacement bolts in the second pic? You are lucky it wasn't seized. Whoever sheared it off and didn't replace it deserves to be ferrarichat shamed! There are legions of bad mechanics out there. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
P.S. Keep up the good work. Threads like yours are helpful to the ferrarichat community and especially the next owner that wants to tackle a DIY belt change.
That would be the one. When I first saw the adjuster, I was trying to figure out how it worked since there was no head. It wasn't until I looked at the "new" part online I realized what had happened. Can't imagine how they sheared the head off but someone managed to do it! I was dreading jacking with that bolt because I knew from the corrosion I saw, it had to be seized up solid in the mount. But nope...turned like a Teflon coated bolt dipped in anti-seize! So far, knock on wood, that is the only WTF I have found.
Still waiting on parts, so my clean up continues..... Next up is the coolant tank. I had made the mistake of cleaning it before with Purple Clean like stuff...undulated. It stained the tank so part of the recon was to just spray it with semi-gloss. Well, I hit it with black wrinkle paint, just a really light coating to maintain the texture. However, I guess some areas started to wrinkle and the tank was taking on the appearance of something that had been charred..... Time for the stripper and this is where it got interesting. I was using some industrial spray remover stuff with warnings that span the can from top to bottom. I used the same stuff on the oil tank but it performed differently even though both are aluminum. Now, the paint I sprayed along with the primer bubbled up like normal and about 15 minutes after I sprayed it, I washed it off. The original paint...well, not so much. I sprayed it again and left it longer than 15 minutes. Well, to be honest, I forgot about it until the next morning. This was also during one of the colder days/nights here in SE Tx. Think it got into the 40's that night! When I went to wash off the remover, I could see it had bubbled up but it didn't wash off. The best way I can describe what happened is like a candy shell over ice cream. Once the shell hardens, you can pull it off. Same thing here, leaving virgin aluminum below it. In fact, there was no residue left so I'm not sure exactly what happened but it left the tank nice and clean... Wifey is home 'cause the prisons released let the employees go home due to the weather, so my work space was taken over by her car....When she told me she was coming home due to weather, I asked about the inmates. I mean, we give them everything else, do they get a weather day too?? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ferrari doesn't like to use primer before applying paint on stuff in the engine bay. That's why we all eventually need to repaint the intake manifold, valve covers... etc Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
