Anyone have a picture(s) for the above, possibly with the appropriate dimensions. Just cannot find any, so will have to make some. Possibly the Superformance part is correct? http://www.superformance.co.uk/a-246/fittings.htm Regards, Alberto
This should do it: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
These are the things I do when I am waiting for fiberglass resin to dry. You are very welcome Alberto.
Is it dry yet? Do you have a dis-assembly schedule (order & documented) of your Dino? Got another one to start on... Regards, Alberto
Hello Alberto: the 4 pins in my L series are different to the ones Nuvolari show. I'm not totally sure if they are the original ones, maybe Matthias can help us with this too. Regards, Alvaro Image Unavailable, Please Login
E series has a very similar set up. What is procedure for removal? Is there a grease nipple? Regards, Alberto
Hi Alberto, I dropped by my car and took these, they come apart as shown. Let me know if you need measurements. Actually, I may need one as it looks like one has cross-threaded. Andrew Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Alvaro, It looks like you're missing the cap off the lower hinge or is something else there to stop the water? Andrew
Would be nice if I could find originals. Meanwhile will have to make do with something that could be approximate to them. Measurements would be a happy thought! How do you take them off? Thanks Andrew! Regards, Alberto
Matthias, thank you very much for your input. Yes Andrew, the capp of the lower left pin is missing. I will need one. Alberto, exist an special tool to remove the pins. Look at the picture. Regards, Alvaro Image Unavailable, Please Login
I don't need this information right now (thank heavens), but must say it is just fantastic how quickly you all responded to Alberto's difficult request for help. And with such detail too. Rob especially. Andres
Indeed, and this does put a perspective on the issue, finally. How is the tool operated? I think that is another one for the production line. Thank you all for the great input. Regards, Alberto
You might double check how much your door hinge holes are worn as a little slop in the hinge pins translates to a lot of up and down movement at the rear of the door. You could check your holes with drill bit shanks to find the hole size. If they holes are worn you might have slop even with new pins.
They are nice and tight, zero slop. Unfair as we made them to size to work on the car. Now, I need the real McCoy and if I find them and will be loose, we'll sleeve them. Thanks for the tip. Regards, Alberto
Rob just to clarify your door hinge pin is correct for M- and E-series. Attached a picture of a pin from an E-series Dino. Regards Matthias Image Unavailable, Please Login
Turns out I have "L" series, door hinge pins in the "E"series. Is this a retrofit in my favor? As the L's are simply NLA, I can switch back and get the still available pins for the E? Regards, Alberto
I´m not 100% sure when the new door hinge pins were introduced, maybe in as late as early E-series......
Thank you Matthias, I still think the switch will work. And...if you don't know when the change happened, NO ONE else will. So, I will install the E on the L and I will get the widely available later E for the E. Not too confusing On the Dino "L" parts book, it shows that the brake line to the rear brake balance valve, is attached to the first opening in the Master Cylinder, this being the furthest one from the brake booster. The other brake line exits same master, opening nearest booster, and routed directly to the front "tee" and to the front calipers. On the Technical manual, it is the inverse for both sources of the brake line location. Which is correct, and does it make any difference? This is another "missing parts" bit, as my car was missing all brake lines, so no idea. The remainder of the routing, I have under control. Thank you. Regards, Alberto