How were you finding TDC before? You sure it wasn't leaking air through the secondary air system? How unfortunate and frustrating, I hope its going to settle for you and work out this time!!
Yep air was coming out through the TB on the same side. You could feel it. Intake not sealing. No air from exhaust or main oil line. Last time I used piston stop, marked it then verified it with degree wheel. While waiting I read the WSM thoroughly and used the TDC method they describe. The also say to unpin all the cam gears when putting belt on. That makes sense as it allows the belt to take up slack uniformly, then pin the gears and do any final pin adjust after cranking it a few times. Will do that this time also. Also gave me a chance to inspect the water new pump impeller given the previous posts on that. My impeller was quite fine. Bought new head gaskets too, ouch. I know you can reuse them if not started but but the deck was so clean and residue free that the silicone water jacket barriers stuck down and tore slightly. Its fortunate that I find it enjoyable and relaxing. Better safe than sorry! Will be blowing the intake out with compressed air for a long period this time.
if you have all 4 cams locked down, then unpinning the cam gears works great as you can tension up and nothing will move, then put the pins back in the holes that most closely match. Unlock everything and go. at least that's the theory. sjd
Exactly, lock all 4. It's what the wsm says as well. Sent from my SM-G990U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
it's even better your second time when you know your timing marks lined up perfectly from doing all of the setting last time. sjd
Seems like a solid plan, that's how I do TDC and I also had the pins out on the cams too when putting the belts on my engine, its definitely the way to do it. Once a head gasket has been torqued down, I wouldn't be comfortable using it again whether the engine has run or not. At least you know everything is all good, its going to be a very rewarding feeling once you get it running...
Ok back on it. Keeping everything taped off. A close up of the micrometer depth setup. All 4 cams locked with match book covers and cam marks aligned fresh Assy lube on shims and top& bottom cam cap surfaces. (Except the top side with match book) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my SM-G990U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Because I can lock them in place on the bench. Engine is also tdc. When you put their heads on the engine then put the cams in, the cams have a tendency to want to go off center in ways thats not lined up, its far off. One lobe actually opens an intake for example then you don't have enough thread sticking up for the cam caps as the cam is ridiing high until you tighten the caps. Then you have to rotate them to get the Cam marks to lineup. When that happens there's no guarantee you've got proper clearance rotating them. I mean you can do it put in the cams on after when the camera's on after you torque the heads but the camshaft flexes an awful lot that way. Not comfortrable with that. When start turning the Cam to rotate it those lobes are under tension. They can snap forward or back if youu slip and who knows what clearance issues you may run into. I can install cams on a jig on a bench with 0 valve interference then rotate them. Then lock them lined up so I have proper valve clearance. Few times tool slipped and cam snapped open another valve. Cams have 0 interference for torquing, not in the way at all when installed. You can see that picture below the studs and tool used is in between the cams and the L wrench sticks up above the cams a good bit. At the end of the day you need the engine TDC and all 4 cams locked. I've done it both ways and this way it seems easier is all. Perhaps less risky. Now to spend the next 2 hours trying to thread washers and nuts on those blind studs waaaay back up in there. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my SM-G990U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
On 4 cylinder heads cams only want to rotate on their own on left bank when positioned at TDC. At TDC all left bank pistons are mid stroke so no chance of valve strike installing heads. In reality I set the motor several degrees before TDC when installing heads to get piston 1 and 4 far enough down that even if brain fade sets in and cams are not in exactly the correct position #4 valves have nothing to bump into. Once heads are on and cams in correct places crank can be brought back up to TDC.
I dont really subscribe to that. Sure, a lot of engines, particularly iron engines with low compression can get away with it but an all alloy wet liner engine as far as I am concerned once compressed and removed its compromised. Good you replaced them.
Just a thought. Set the engine to 90* BTDC. All piston in 1-4 are about at 1/2 stroke. Mount the 1-4 head. Install the cams in the 1-4 head as you would on the work bench and lock with marks aligned. No clearance problem. Rotate the engine forward to TDC. Now all cylinders on 5-8 at at 1/2 stroke. Install the head on the 5-8 bank as you would on the bench and lock. Then you don't have to worry about dinging a valve moving the heads around. Brian has a point about adjusting valves, but on a 355 that's not an issue and I don't think it's that big a deal with the engine out to do it after the heads go on. I mean, no different than at typical major.
And neither does my method. Been doing it for a very long time engine in car or on stand and there was a day Ferrari had no way to grab and move crank on the front of the engine so moving it back and forth 90 degrees was a real inconvenience. Besides, you have all the time in the world at home. Doing it on the clock you have to work fast.
I used 90* BTDC as an example. The idea is just to have the 1-4 pistons all down from TDC sufficiently to allow clearance for the valves is needed.
Yep can roll the engine back 20 degrees as timing wheel is still on, seemed easier this way. Tdc and locked cams, either way. No issues torquing with cam in at all. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my SM-G990U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
20* wouldn't give much additional clearance. But the reason I though about this was because of your initial though that you bent a valve some how after you installed the cams with the heads off. Like I said, it was just a thought.
I assumed I bent a valve on the bench because I couldn't recall anything during the install that would have done it. Turns out I didn't bend any which would explain why I failed to recall how it could have happend and then assumed must have been on the bench. Doing it on the bench I can take my time and get everything right I'm not nanny hurry so why not. I'm basically refusing to turn the crank at all for any reason until the belt is on. Just in case.[emoji12] Tdc wheel is on, I'll put a micrometer plunger in the plug hole on a piston on the way up when I remove the degree wheel to detect any movement right before fitting belt. Sent from my SM-G990U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
For the same reason they cannot make interchangeable heads and valve covers. They don't care. I have degreed a lot of engines with timing marks supposedly correct. They are no more correct than Ferrari.
Except a positive stop will indicate TDC at a different position than Ferrari defines TDC. The difference may or may not be important but it is different.
1st time I used a piston stop then and a degree wheel. Degree wheel showed same degree either side of 0. This time I just used the degree wheel and a plunge indicator on the piston exactly how its specified in the workshop manual to do. Its quite precise with .001 indicator. I recall rifledriver saying that was preferred somewhere as well unless I recall wrong. Sent from my SM-G990U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Letting the 60nm sit overnight and recheck before doing the angle bit. Sent from my SM-G990U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Manual also has it if cams are already fitted to head btw. Either way. Image Unavailable, Please Login
