It's all good either way, cams in or out, TDC by Ferrari method or dead stop.
I like putting the head together on the bench sometimes, other times I'll slip the cams in once the heads are on. A lot of careful consideration is going on here, which is good thing, doesn't really matter what way you do it as long as you're careful.
I'll be leaving intake tract tape on the heads while I fit the plenum and route the wires which it a bit of a bear. When done I'll blow it out the area with air lift it, pull the tape, wipe it and slip on gaskets underneath. Deck and surfaces are very clean but after last time better safe than sorry.[emoji3] Sent from my SM-G990U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
That refers to when during service the pulleys or anything else that could matter have not been disassembled. Good. If done carefully it is quite accurate. I read many pages and never saw a reason. Why did the heads come back off? I was just curious.
I will say this from my experience being in a couple of the worlds largest Ferrari service departments. Brain fade happens to everyone and those most exposed to any type of situation are more likely to F up from a mistake that anyone else. I have seen more valves get bent putting cams in an assembled motor than putting fully assembled heads on a motor.
Ohh did leak down and intake blow by.before in I stalled engine. I assumed I bent a valve somehow. Shop took them apart and rechecked with and looked for bent valves. None bent, all in Spec. Seems some small nibs old gasket material or what not made its way to intake and got pinched between valve and seal. Now if I knew better I would have triesd blowing compressed air down first but I assumed the worse. Could not figure out how I bent a valve and theorized it was on the bench so ehow, maybe I put it valve down for a Second or something. No bent valves turns out, just extra work that a blast of air would have fixed. Experience counts no substitute for that. Sent from my SM-G990U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
What was the valve clearance like on that cylinder like? And Yes, always good to blast the compressed air if there is no obvious issue....It doesn't take much to have a bit of crap get in and prevent the valve seating.
I realize that now, that's exactly what happened too some little specs, I kept it super clean so I assumed bent valve. Waste of time and effort. Again lack of experience. But doing it 2 times gives me the experience. Which is what this was all about anyhow, so I'm ok with it.
I like your candidness about it, most people would not reveal....... Its all about the learning, and now you're a F119 expert!! You can do my car next time the engine comes out!!
After sitting at 60 nm and i rechecked torque 2 times, I did the the 90 degree bit. Degrees are below subreacted from 90. Negative is past 90 degrees. Its tough to get exactly 90, no room, nut angle, rod flex, arms shaking trying to go slow and not over shoot etc. On both heads the last few degrees on the last nut number 10 had an easier feel than the others incremental torque. Like it got a bit easier almost. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my SM-G990U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
I think you're probably overthinking it, but I understand why, and nothing wrong with what you're doing. The 90 degrees is approx and more a feel type thing. Getting closer and closer.....
I set the belt with pins out of the cam pullies. then pinned them. When all set the cams about a marks width off as expected with the belt tightening. Need to adjust the lobes manually, again it says that in the manual as well. Also if you remove the 1-4 Intake pully the belt goes right on the reset the pully back in place. Stupid easy. Tomorrow I will reset the lobes you have to have TDC, so a plunge micrometer on a piston traveling up is needed, I used #4. Will set the cam lobes tomorrow and check with degree wheel the valve timing. Its a pain as a 1 person job doing that bit. Also sketchy because if the cam slips and snaps around, bad things can happen. Then leak down, and cooling system pressure test, fingers crossed, then final assembly which is trivial.
Solid method for sure, and thus brings an end to your relationship with the engine as its installed into the car..... I would, whilst the engine is out and you can get them easily, check the cooling system bleed nipples, one of mine was seized, and one blocked, it was much easier dealing with it when the engine bay did not have an engine in it... Also when was the last time you checked the fuel pump cradles and the rubber gaskets/sleeve which the pump sits in? They do go brittle and break down into black goop which can clog the system. Mine were a mess, pumps were full of crud, I ended up replacing them.....you might have already done that, I can't remember....
Ohh I rebuilt the pumps last year, made a post and showed how to make internal fuel lines as thy are NLA. Sent from my SM-G990U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Same here. I'm going to tear it back down and look over winter. Mine has had nothing but ethanol free since rebuild so will be interesting. I've got the white color wire boots installed.
I had grey boots, they swelled. Installed the updated white ones - thought to check them again. This is 12 hours sitting in fuel. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
BWT For the pully shim I since had additional .5mm and .25mm spacers made on top of the original had 3mm. It took additional .25mm to line up the outside of the cages to protrude the exact same. So 3.25. Also noticed this stud (on the towel) on the bottom water pump is actually shorter and uses a shorter nut, the threads were chewed up (You can see it, the shorter nuts tend to do that I find) and worried about clamping force. So I happened I have a few OEM studs and this one is the same size but slightly longer so I can use the tall lock nut, don't have to worry about it backing off and causing timing to skip.
Cams timed and leak down cold with no residual oil residue is 1%-2%. Very good. Only did 60 psi as I was just looking for leaks, if its leaking it will leak immediately and hold no pressure. I'll fill the crank case/cooling system with water and do it again higher and test cooling system at 18 psi. or so. I ran a timing belt timing test this time. Several times, several belt on and off cycles. I have time, not in a hurry and I like to replicate results and confirm findings. (recall I confirmed my timing marks were correct open and close with degree wheel so for this Timing marks = correct Timing, this may not be true on other cars don't rely on marks for timing without confirming) OK. I put the belt on and tightened the tensioner at full extension per the manual cranking it over 8 revolutions. It was 192hz. Timing marks were off of as expected. So I adjusted them to line them up. Interesting they would not line up. Either this or that side of the mark slightly for a few cams. Got is as close as possible then I went ahead and set the timing belt to 144 hz cranking it over 8 revolutions to confirm. Well the marks were off worse. So I redid the cam timing again with belt tension, correct and they lined up cranking it over 8 revolutions to confirm. Every time checking tension with #1 at true TDC. That water pump stud than knawed at my brain so I had to take the belt back off to remove the pump to fix it so I ordered a new belt again from Ricambi. Also you had better get that pully dowel in the center cam time slot to begin with or it wont work well, I tried that too to see btw just to see, started 2 holes over from center. Movement was too large to re-slot the dowel and line up marks. Anything other than 144 hz and starting on center cam dowel slot resulted in timing marks being off a little to a lot. I had to take the belt off to do that test and re-slot the pulleys with the belt teeth, too so I did belt on and off 3 times total. Side note, the final time I did after experimenting, with 144 hz and set cam timing starting from center dowel pin location, the resulting dowel positions were the exact as the first assembly, I had to adjust the cams the exact same as the first time, wound up in the same cam degree pin holes. Not surprising but comforting.